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Sizing hydrualic motor


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#16 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2010 - 12:04 AM

Both pumps are the same physical size, so i believe they are botht he same 17 gpm. Yes, there will be a FEL on this, as well as a cat 0 3 pt hitch.

Now that i have seen the math behind your words, i see how this will work much better. If i use an auto tranny, then it already has reverse, so the valve would just need to make it stop, go, and change speed within gears. Also, could i get the tractor up to 10 mph, so its a little bit faster than my other GTs? My thinking was i could slow it down but shifting the tranny, and still move the tractor around the yard a tad faster than the others.

Thanks for all the help, i knew there was a good reason i liked these forums.

#17 hydriv OFFLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2010 - 08:07 AM

fm,
If you ask an architect to design a house for you and after he does so, you then tell him that you want a 2nd story put on it, then do you understand where I'm going with this?

You should have disclosed at the outset several things such as,

1. I'm putting a loader on this tractor.

2. I'm putting a 3 pt on this tractor.

3. The pump I have is actually a 2 section pump.

All of that information affects the way your system will be constructed. I don't mind trying to help but please....don't expect me or anyone else to work in a vacuum.

Once again, I have great concerns over this pump you have because it is the very item that is at the center of every calculation. The pump size is dictating the motor size, the cooler size, the reservoir size, the hose sizes and the valve sizes. It also dictates the size of engine that is selected to drive that pump. IF........you are correct and this pump has two sections that will put out 17 gpm for a total of 34 gpm, then the math says you need 40 hp to produce 34 gpm and 2000 psi. If you don't have adequate hp to spin a certain pump, then the engine just stops dead in its tracks whenever the system asks for 34 gpm at 2000 psi. It's like trying to pull a heavy load up a steep hill from a standstill using 4th gear in a 4 speed transmission.

Moving now to your statement " If i use an auto tranny".

You need to get a grip here. That isn't happening and the reasons why it isn't happening are plentiful. Find a small transmission from a car that is either a 3 speed or 4 speed. The smaller the better, physically. Don't worry about strength. That isn't an issue and never will be. This is about keeping it compact.

Yes, it is possible to raise the target ground speed to 10 mph but I think you need to verify the gpm of this pump prior to proceeding any further. If need be, take it to a hydraulics shop and ask them to pinpoint what you have. Until we know to an absolute certainty what each section of this pump is putting out, everything is just a waste of time.

#18 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2010 - 08:41 AM

I "think" he means a std shift tranny from an "auto", not an automatic trans.

#19 hydriv OFFLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2010 - 10:34 AM

I "think" he means a std shift tranny from an "auto", not an automatic trans.


Dan, I believe you are likely right. However, I certainly need clarification about this pump.

#20 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2010 - 10:34 AM

Yup, i meant a manual car tranny. I dont like working with automatics in the first place, so i wouldnt want it in this.

Alright, so now i should be looking for a hydrualics shop to find the displacement of the pumps. Then we can all know for sure what we are working with.

Oh, and the tires are 98 3/8 inches in circumference.

#21 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2010 - 11:00 AM

Alright, i just went outside to pull the pump off so i could find someone to find the size. When i got it off i decided to clean it up some more, and right on the mounting flange i finally found some numbers. They read as best i can tell- 116YC011 116Yc010-RF G"80:X. and on the back it says Webster. I am not 100% positve of all the numbers because they are somewhat hard to read, but only the the G"80:X. is the one i am most doubtful about. The rest I am 95% on how they read.

#22 hydriv OFFLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2010 - 12:03 PM

Excellent. That means you can take that pump to a hydraulics shop for identification. They can translate the information you found on that pump and then locate the actual specs for it. We need to know what the true internal displacement is for each pump section along with the max rpm that pump is allowed to spin and the max PSI it is designed to put out.

#23 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2010 - 08:47 PM

Well after some searching, i found a hydraulic shop. Nearest one to the Taunton area is Bridgewater. So monday the hydraulic specialists get a call to see if they can ID this pump unit.

#24 hydriv OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2010 - 08:02 AM

While you are at it, go steal your wife's dressmaker's tape and find out the circumference of the tire you will be using on this tractor. Also, since you have one rear tire jacked up in the air to make that measurement, put a crayon mark on the inside sidewall of the tire and extend that crayon mark onto the floor so that both marks line up. Then mark the U-joint receiver that is bolted to the pinion gear and mark the rear end housing so that those two marks line up. With all marks in line with each other, rotate the pinion gear while watching the mark on the tire. Count the number of full turns the pinion has to make to get the mark on the tire to line up with the mark on the floor. If it is slightly less than 4 full turns, then the ratio is probably 3:90 to 1. If a tad over, then the 4:10 to 1 is likely correct. The next jump is usually 4:33 and 4:55.

If you knew the VIN from the donor vehicle plus the make, then a check at the local dealer's parts department would answer this question. Short of that, opening up the center section and counting teeth or discovering numbers stamped into the edge of the ring gear is the only other option. I'm sure you realize that accuracy is needed if you wish to end up with a tractor that performs the way you want it to.

#25 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2010 - 06:56 PM

Well, no call today, got hung up with work. I think i need a wife to borrow her tape, and a girlfriend to have a wife. But thats another topic. I wish i could do that, but i have the tires off, along with the brake drums to fix the brakes. I did measure the tire the other day, and it was 98 3/8 inches. The truck WAS a 1973 Ford F-350. The original cab rotted out and was scrapped, so no VIN, and the axle tag is long gone, so i thin i'll try a modified version of your method. The axle shafts have marks on them, and i should be able to tape one and keep it from moving.

#26 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2010 - 09:17 PM

Ok, no new info today. Sorry for the lack of info. i was in virginia for two weeks, so not much got done. I'm finally going to call the hydrualics shop to see if they can locate the pump specs. I'll also figure out the axle ratio while i work on the brakes. One thing I do know it that the tires are 98 3/8 inches in circumference.

#27 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2010 - 08:51 PM

Finally figured out the axle ratio. Its 4.10 for sure. I had to work today, and was stuck covering things for the storm we had today, so the pump will wait until tomorrow when I can call them.

#28 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 06, 2010 - 09:46 PM

the hydraulics place was closed when i called, so i tried googling my pumps again. I finally found a site with the specs for the right pump. They each put out 1.16 cubic inchs per revolution, and 2500 psi.

#29 hydriv OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2010 - 03:00 PM

Please post the link. I'd like to see all the specs for this pump.

#30 fordmustang1984 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2010 - 08:24 PM

ok, here it is- http://www.qualityco...YC_ProdData.pdf
i knew i should have save it sooner.




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