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Deere 110 Deck Spindle Rebuild


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#1 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2012 - 12:29 PM

Two of the spindles on my 39 mower deck for the square fender 110 I am working on were bad. One had play in it, and the other was grumbling a lot. So I put new bearings in them. Took some pictures along the way in case somebody wanted to know how to do it.....

First course of action is to pull the deck off the tractor. Get some WD40, PB Blaster, or other pennatrant and spray all the bolts down good. Then go do something else for the rest of the day! Give the oil time to work in.
Remove the blade from the spindle, then remove the spindle assembly from the deck itself. With the 110, there are 3 carriage bolts per spindle - I use an air impact to get them off - plan on breaking one or two of them due to rust, even after the PB Blaster..... Ther spindles (on this application) come out the top. So the pulleys don't have to come off yet.
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Here is a picture of 1 spindle assembly. On the 110 (and many of the older tractors), they are completely rebuildable IF you can get them apart! Unless you tear something up in disassembly, all you need to replace are 2 sets of bearings per spindle - much cheaper than replaceing the whole spindle!
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Remove the top pulley nut (air tools are great here...), and the pulley. Again - PB Blaster is your friend here..... Spray and soak as much as needed. You can support the spindle frame and tap/press on the shaft (driving the shaft out the bottom of the pulley NO MORE than 1/4 inch) to break the pulley loose. Then it should come off without too much trouble by using a prybar GENTLY!!! between the pulley and the spindle housing to lever the pulley off. This is one of the two hardest parts of the process!
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Once the pulley comes off, there is a key that has to be removed from the shaft - thats why you can't press the shaft out of the pulley. Once the key is out, the shaft can be pressed down out of the spindle housing - I have a hydraulic press that makes the process easy, but a hammer and punch works as well. Just make sure not to ding up the threads... Clean up the shaft and set it aside for now...
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Here is what a spindle assembly looks like apart
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NExt step is to get the BOTTOM bearing out. Bottom side bearing is held in by two ring clips - one on top of the bearing and one on the bottom of the bearing. Don't try and press the bearing out without removing the bottom ring or SOMETHING will break!!! This may be another Blast it and wait session....
Turn the assembly over and spray/clean/spray the ring area. You might also have to remove wire, string, grass, ???? from around the bearing. These clips will rust in place sometimes and are HARD to get out. Soak them good before you start. Screwdriver is pointing to the ring in the bottom of the housing.
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Next is getting the ring out. There may be some special tool to get them out, but I don't have one... They don't have the holes so a set of pin plyers can get to them. The edge of the ring is beveled - I usually use a screwdriver to pry the edge loose, then use a thin blade to work the clip out of the groove. Slow and steady gets the job done. This MAY be the hardest operation in the whole process if the ring is stuck in place. MAKE SURE TO WEAR SAFETY GLASSES when you pry these out!!!! They can take off and go flying and you don't want to catch one in the eye!!!
8.jpg

Once the ring is out, clean up the groove and we can punch the bottom bearing out. Use a drift from the top side of the spindle and work the bearing down out of the bore, pushing through the center hole in the top bearing. OR you can use a slide hammer from the bottom to pull the bearing out. If you pull them out either way, plan on replacing them (no reason to do this if you don't plan on replacing them though...). You can leave the upper retaining ring in place!
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There is a spacer inbetween the top and bottom bearings. Remove it.

Then turn the assembly over and press the top bearing out. It is only held in place by a friction fit ON THIS ASSEMBLY - other spindles may have a retaining ring on the top bearing as well - make sure to check!!!!
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Clean everything up. This is a good time to paint the assemblies!!! Take some steel wool or crocus cloth to the bearing shaft and make sure it is clean and free of burrs. Once the paint dries, time to install the new bearings and put it back together!
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Reassemble the bottom bearing first. I use an old bearing as a punch to press the new bearing in place. Use some anti-sieze lube on the retaining band and put it back in place. MAKE SURE TO INSTALL THE SPACER (I say that for a reason.....) before you install the top bearing! I usually fill the cavity between the bearing with grease before pressing the top bearing in. You could also drill and thread for zirc fittings while the assemblies were apart... The top bearing will press in until stopped by the spacer - If you forgot the spacer, time to do some dis-assembly.....
14.jpg

Put anti-sieze on the shaft and thread it back into the assembly, then replace the key.
BEFORE reinstalling the pulley, make sure the carriage bolts are on the assembly - they won't fit around the pulley once the pulley is installed. Reinstall the pulley, and the pulley nut.

Now would be a great time to do some PM to your deck before you reinstall the spindles - paint, scrape off old grass, check the belts, etc. Reinstall, and remount the deck!

Other members may be able to add some tips. Hope that helps!
  • MH81, Texas Deere and Horse, lyall and 2 others have said thanks

#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2012 - 12:38 PM

I don't have one like that, but some else might find this very informative. Thanks for posting it.

#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2012 - 02:49 PM

Thanks for the clear detailed description of the spindle rebuild. i'm sure it will be a great resource for those who are attempting a rebuild for the first time.

#4 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2012 - 05:46 PM

Can we sticky this one to the top of the postings? :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:

#5 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2012 - 06:34 PM

Can we sticky this one to the top of the postings? :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:

I agree that would be a helpful reference. :thumbs:

#6 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2012 - 08:51 PM

I am going to promote this to a Article. Thanks for posting this great information !! :thumbs:

#7 lyall OFFLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2012 - 10:15 PM

to help remove the spindle pulley I made a tool to help remove them
made from to pieces of angle iron 1-1/2x1-1/2x 6
cut the angles to fit the pulley, drilled two hole in the angles for long bolts or threaded rod
Posted Image
clamp the angles to the pulley
Posted Image

then I put it in a vise so that the angles set on top of the vise.
I do not tighten the vise. I just want the angles to set on it.
I use a air hammer with the long point to drive the spindle out off the pulley.

You can drill a 1/4" dia. hole about a 1/4" depth in the center of the spindle.. That will help the long point stay in the middle of the spindle. It will save the threads from being damaged.

Posted Image pulley removed

Posted Image here is one for the smaller pulley

I have one for each size of pulleys. I helps a lot.
the angle iron I used were from old bed frames
you can use long bolts or threaded rod. My are 1/4" bolts or rod.

Attached Thumbnails

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Edited by lyall, July 17, 2012 - 10:22 PM.


#8 jdnut OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2012 - 08:02 AM

Great information thanks for sharing!

#9 xaztec OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2012 - 10:28 AM

Thanks for posting this, great info. I have one question. How do you get the snap ring back in the housing once you press the lower bearing in? I've tried several methods which all resulted in the snap ring becoming airborne and/or free exfoliation of my knuckles.

also a tip - I have a large three arm gear puller that I use for pressing the spindle shaft and bearings out. It has to be big enough to clear the pulley and grab the housing so you can break the pulley free first. You can't grab the pulley or you'll bend it.

also, if you run into the problem I did where the spindle housing to deck mounting bolts (carriage bolts) were rusted so much, the shoulders would no longer engage in the square mounting slot/hole and they would just spin, I took a welder and built up a little bead on the threads where they're visible at the end of the mounting slot (mine were open on the ends). That stopped them from spinning in the slot so I could get the nut off. If you have closed mounting holes like the ones pictured in this article, you can tack the carriage bolt head to the housing to keep it from spinning and then just cut it when you get it out. If you don't have a welder, you can do what I did before I figured that little trick out and crack or cut the nut off the bolt.

#10 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2012 - 12:14 AM

Xaztec, To get the snap rings back in, do some prep work before the reinstall. First, clean out the groove the ring sits in - A wire brush/wheel works good to clean the rust and crud out of the groove. Another handy tool is a dental style pick to clean out the groove.

Take the ring and clean it up on a strip of sandpaper on a flat surface.

Reinserting the ring in the groove is usually not too bad if you do that first. I start one of the ends in the groove, then work the ring down into the groove toward the other end. If needed, you can use a flat blade across from the starting point to lever the ring into the inside of the barrel and add pressure to help it stay in the groove. Usually, once you get about 1/3 of it in, the rest will press in pretty easy. Again, wear safety glasses when you put these in, cuz they can fly if they get away from you.


The tack welding trick works - good idea. Most of the time, if they spin, I take a cutting disk in the angle grinder and just cut the bolt (from the underside of the deck). That seems to be the quickest thing for me, especially since I will be replacing them if they are that bad anyway....
  • Trav1s said thank you

#11 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2012 - 06:44 AM

Thanks for posting this,very interesting.

#12 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2012 - 07:03 AM

Same spindle set up as on my JD212. The problem with this deck is that the main drive pulley is shot and JD wants aver $125 for the part to fix it. Plus the spindle pulleys are all badly corroded and need to be replaced. Total of almost $275 with the new bearings.

Edited by GTTinkerer, November 03, 2012 - 07:05 AM.


#13 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2012 - 08:18 AM

Same spindle set up as on my JD212. The problem with this deck is that the main drive pulley is shot and JD wants aver $125 for the part to fix it. Plus the spindle pulleys are all badly corroded and need to be replaced. Total of almost $275 with the new bearings.


Have you looked for good used one?

#14 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2012 - 10:31 AM

Have you looked for good used one?


I have but around here the used ones are about the same as parts to rebuild mine so I'll probably just rebuild it but will try to find a used main spindle.

#15 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2012 - 11:00 AM

Sorry I can't help you on the main spindle. My extras are for a Model 38 and Model 41 (38" for the 120/140/300 series).
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