Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

1940 Allis Chalmers B With Knock And Miss


  • Please log in to reply
30 replies to this topic

#16 MH81 OFFLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,289 Thanks
  • 28,622 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted July 13, 2012 - 05:57 PM

I think I found your service manual, have to wait for my membership to be approved before I can download it tho.

#17 Cvans OFFLINE  

Cvans

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5412
  • 4,486 Thanks
  • 5,014 posts
  • Location: Eastern SD.

Posted July 13, 2012 - 08:40 PM

Sets for a couple of years and the guys checking to see if it will be done tomorrow. Isn't that about par for the course.
Can't help it, just makes me laugh because I've been in your shoes and I laughed then also. :rofl2:

#18 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

GTTinkerer

    GT Tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1564
  • 1,153 Thanks
  • 1,326 posts
  • Location: Mancelona, MI

Posted July 14, 2012 - 07:35 AM

Part of the timing process requires the engine to be turned over by hand to bring the #1 piston to be TDC and the mag to fire the plug. Since I don't have the hand crank I drill and tapped a piece of 23/4" rod, ran in a 3/8" bolt and cut off the ends to fit.

I screwed the compression tester into the #1 plug hole to show when I am getting compression which should mean the #1 piston is on the compression stroke and the #1 spark plug will be firing very soon. Problem now is the compression gauge is showing 30PSI when I turn the engine over slowly by hand every engine rotation instead of every other rotation. So now it seems like it could be several things including bent push rod, worn cam lobe, push rod popped out of the rocker arm and ????. At least now the timing will be adjustable in both directions instead of bottomed out on the advanced side.

So off comes the muffler and the hood. Gonna have to change the signature line.

Bill

Edited by GTTinkerer, July 14, 2012 - 07:36 AM.


#19 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

GTTinkerer

    GT Tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1564
  • 1,153 Thanks
  • 1,326 posts
  • Location: Mancelona, MI

Posted July 14, 2012 - 08:09 AM

I believe I found the source of the knock. The #1 exhaust push rod was off its seat and I believe it was causing the cylinder pressure to build up high enough every two or three cycles to either self ignite like a diesel or fire off the spark plug. One of the photos shows the the valve "adjustment" on the #1 intake valve. slightly out of spec. The clearance is supposed to be .010" hot so I will set it at .012" cold and then warm it up and readjust.

Still going to have to look at the valve lift to check the cam lobes.

Bill

Attached Thumbnails

  • DSCN2964.JPG
  • DSCN2965.JPG
  • DSCN2967.JPG

Edited by GTTinkerer, July 14, 2012 - 08:10 AM.


#20 olcowhand OFFLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,637 Thanks
  • 29,838 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted July 14, 2012 - 09:43 AM

Looks like you've found it!

#21 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted July 14, 2012 - 10:33 AM

Great detective work Bill. I wonder what would have caused that to pop out like that?

#22 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

GTTinkerer

    GT Tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1564
  • 1,153 Thanks
  • 1,326 posts
  • Location: Mancelona, MI

Posted July 14, 2012 - 11:56 AM

Turned out that the nut that is supposed to mount the rocker shaft to the head came loose allowing the shaft to raise up enough to cause this problem. The other end was loose also but the two bolted down mounts between them were both still tight. Cleaned them off with some carb cleaner, put on a couple of drops of red Loctite and torqued them down to 15 foot pounds. Set the valves to .010" cold, put the magneto back in, timed it while the engine was warming up, checked the valve clearance again and it was close enough on all eight not to readjust.

Started it and ran it for about 20 minutes and it ran out of gas, put in a couple gallons of the recreational gas and tried to restart. No &%I%^* spark. Boy I haste magnetos, give me a set of points and condenser along with an external coil and distributor any day.

And I still have to rebuild the carb since it won't idle below 800 rpm.

Remove the red if you want.

Thanks,
Bill

Attached Thumbnails

  • DSCN2969.JPG

  • olcowhand said thank you

#23 olcowhand OFFLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,637 Thanks
  • 29,838 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted July 14, 2012 - 12:30 PM

Turned out that the nut that is supposed to mount the rocker shaft to the head came loose allowing the shaft to raise up enough to cause this problem. The other end was loose also but the two bolted down mounts between them were both still tight. Cleaned them off with some carb cleaner, put on a couple of drops of red Loctite and torqued them down to 15 foot pounds. Set the valves to .010" cold, put the magneto back in, timed it while the engine was warming up, checked the valve clearance again and it was close enough on all eight not to readjust.

Started it and ran it for about 20 minutes and it ran out of gas, put in a couple gallons of the recreational gas and tried to restart. No &%I%^* spark. Boy I haste magnetos, give me a set of points and condenser along with an external coil and distributor any day.

And I still have to rebuild the carb since it won't idle below 800 rpm.

Remove the red if you want.

Thanks,
Bill


The red can stay Bill, and it is all too well understood by a many of us! Glad you're winding down on this repair. :thumbs:
  • GTTinkerer said thank you

#24 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

GTTinkerer

    GT Tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1564
  • 1,153 Thanks
  • 1,326 posts
  • Location: Mancelona, MI

Posted July 14, 2012 - 01:08 PM

Points were a little corroded and I cleaned them up with some 220 grit crocus cloth. Sprayed them off with electric contact cleaner, then ran a clean business card through them and dried them out with air when I had the mag off the first time. Guess I will do it again.

New point set is almost $50 on ebay. Anyone have any other sources for parts?

Thanks,
Bill

Edited by GTTinkerer, July 14, 2012 - 01:09 PM.


#25 MH81 OFFLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,289 Thanks
  • 28,622 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted July 14, 2012 - 04:09 PM

Bill, the Mag will have a condenser just like a distributor, best swap one in if you have one, just to make sure.
  • GTTinkerer said thank you

#26 MH81 OFFLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,289 Thanks
  • 28,622 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted July 14, 2012 - 04:22 PM

Bill, finally got that Manual.

http://gardentractor...wd45d-shop-man/
  • GTTinkerer said thank you

#27 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

GTTinkerer

    GT Tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1564
  • 1,153 Thanks
  • 1,326 posts
  • Location: Mancelona, MI

Posted July 14, 2012 - 05:08 PM

I found the problem on the no fire side. There is a small spring that carries the fire from the coil to "distributor cap", there is also a brass rod and some other stuff.. The spring is about the size of the one in the old click type ink pens for those old enough to remember them. The spring in this one broke in the middle and just collapsed on itself. The hardware store in town is closed for the owner's daughter's wedding so I have to wait until tomorrow morning to see if they have something close.

Hopefully I can get it running tomorrow so I can pull the carburetor to let it soak in some muratic acid. The carb kit is supposed to be here Monday morning.

Thanks,
Bill

#28 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

GTTinkerer

    GT Tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1564
  • 1,153 Thanks
  • 1,326 posts
  • Location: Mancelona, MI

Posted July 14, 2012 - 05:10 PM

MH81,
Thank you for uploading the manual. It will definitely come in handy.

Bill

#29 olcowhand OFFLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,637 Thanks
  • 29,838 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted July 14, 2012 - 05:43 PM

Be very careful with aluminum in any type acid. It can eat them right up! They can come out looking like new, and the threads look fine, but the threads will be eaten back, sometimes to the point the jets won't even tighten. You can ask my brother how he found out......the hard way!
I figure you've done this before & know the right dilution rate and time in the soak, but wanted to throw this out there for other reader's benefit.
  • MH81 and GTTinkerer have said thanks

#30 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

GTTinkerer

    GT Tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1564
  • 1,153 Thanks
  • 1,326 posts
  • Location: Mancelona, MI

Posted July 14, 2012 - 06:04 PM

I believe the carb is all cast iron but I do remove anything that isn't iron or steel. And I do it outside since the fumes can be over powering. The only reason I used the acid is because it cleans out the small passages better than anything else I have tried.

Thanks,
Bill
  • olcowhand and MH81 have said thanks




Top