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1959 Country Squire Wisconson 9hp Aenl

country squire economy tractor power king

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#1 Guest_GJS_*

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Posted July 12, 2012 - 12:21 PM

Hey Everyone,

I'm rebuilding my Grandfathers 1959 Country Squire with a Wisconson 9HP AENL. The motor and transmission are fine but I am having trouble with the clutch. At full adjustment (closest to the transmission before actually rubbing on the bellhousing) the clutch is not fully disengaging and the throwout bearing is dry and rattling. The plates on the clutch look fine wear-wise so I'm not sure if that could be the problem. It just seems like the throw out cannot depress the fingers on the clutch enough to disengage the clutch.

If anyone has any ideas for what may be the issue and/or a line on clutch parts, let me know.

Thanks!
GJS

#2 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2012 - 12:28 PM

Welcome to the site! Make sure to post some pics of your tractor! We would all love to see it! I am 95% sure there is not a way to adjust the clutch. How are the clutch fingers? Could you post some pics of the clutch and the fingers? I have heard that the best place to get clutch parts is from Jerry Frank.

#3 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2012 - 01:53 PM

Do you have this apart already? It sounds to me as if either the clutch flywheel shifted forward or the clutch forks may be bent or the pin that holds the forks in place may have gave way and let the forks move.

#4 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2012 - 05:22 PM

:welcometogttalk:
Thankfully, I've never had to do anything with my Squire.
If your bearing is worn bad enough, it could have a lot of side to side play. This will allow for less motion of the fingers and the clutch won't disengage.

#5 Guest_GJS_*

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Posted July 16, 2012 - 03:51 PM

Thanks for the info! The motor has been rebuilt, broke in and taken back off the chassis awaiting clutch repairs. Near as I can tell, any of the suggestions posted here could be the case. The throwout bearing is definately dry and suffering from some slop in all directions. The "ears" on the throwout bearing have upwards of a 32nd of an inch wear on them where the fork pushes on it. The fork surfaces themselves also appear worn. I get the feeling that the combined wear is simply limiting the throw necessary to fully disengage the clutch which appears in very good condition. Unfortunately, the tractor was beaten literally to death (several hours of operation at full bore=blown piston) 15 years ago by a tennant of my Grandmother's after my Grandfather passed away .... She's gonna be full of surprises! I'll keep y'all posted and will put up photos soon.

Thanks again for help!

GJS

#6 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2012 - 12:29 PM

Throw-out bearings can be gotten at most older auto stores. It's an Aetna brand. I may have some fingers for clutch, have to look. There is a snap ring inside the flywheel bore that bumps up to end of crank to give the right depth for it. They sometimes get knocked out or bent in quite a ways, flywheel moves toward engine too much and won't work. Have to remove the flywheel to check. Sometimes doing removal is hardest part. Pulling on outer edge will break it for sure. Pushing it off with bolts at center between it and block sometimes works, but takes big 1/2" bolts and nuts, short size to start and working up to bigger as it moves out. Polish up crank and bore for easy slip-on for next time. There are two set screws clamping crank too. One on crank, one on the key. Some guys take a drill thru the hole on crank and make a dimple in shaft for the new set-screw to go into and help hold in place. This is after you have old screws out, flywheel off and new snap ring inside and putting it back on. Be careful not to hurt the threads for set screw. Don't need to do the one for the key. The fingers on the push fork for pedal can wear and same spot on the cast iron bearing holder. Check them for excessive wear. Some wear is always shown there, just can'tbe deep. Can weld up the bearinng holder and re-grind. Not sure on the fork. Good Luck and welcome to #1 PK problem..
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