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Ford 09jc9835 Deck Rebuild


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#61 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 02:08 PM

Sounds like a plan kenny you don't want that shaft wobbling inside the pulley or the wrong key, you need to torque that bolt to keep the bearings tight.
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#62 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 02:19 PM

Fun part is cutting the weld on the new one. I'm not so worried about how it looks, I'll just flip it to put on the old hub. I'll get it done. May be a hair out of round, but it will work.

#63 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 08:52 PM

I used 1/2" washers on mine (5) on each end to prevent the rollers moveing back and forth. Seems to be working fine. Sorry for the dirty picture, yes, there are 5 there.

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#64 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2012 - 06:39 AM

I have a bunch of 1/2" electric threaded conduit. I can cut that into spacers, It may be a bit large ID wise, but would keep them from 'wandering' about. But I will give them a bit of room to roam, just not a tight fit.

#65 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2012 - 01:21 PM

Just for you folks following this thread, I braved the heat and got it done! It's 109* (43C) on the front porch! I cut the new pulley from it's shaft, did the same with the old pulley. Took some pics along the way. Some to show the difference of the two pulleys. The old pulley was staked and brazed. Had to file the brass off so I could get a decent weld.
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I found something to use to back up the back side so I could weld the new pulley to the old hub. The new pulley is made to fit a 5/8" belt, so that spindle may run a bit faster than the others. I made spacers for the rollers to keep them close to where I wanted. I did not cut the last roller down to 3" width. Instead, I left it a full 12" wide in the middle. I got the deck mounted to the tractor and measured for drive belt length. I came close to 82", so off to Napa for a new belt. That is too long, but usable at the moment. I need an 80", maybe 80.5". Had to add two 1/2" nuts to the adjustment to keep the belt on. Any way, I found some dryed grass to mow and tried it out. Did a great job!
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The deck is quiet, had a hard time telling if it was spinning. With a shorter belt, I think it would mow anything!

#66 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2012 - 03:05 PM

Make sure the mule shives are aligned perfectly when the belt is on and tight. Or it will fling the belt . I had this issue with the diesel conversion because the engine was longer by 1.5" so I had to move the mule forward by 1.5" and get a 3" longer belt. Now all has been great now for 2 years.

#67 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2012 - 03:29 PM

Problem is, I don't have enough adjustment to get it tight. Think a shorter belt would fix that. I had to add two 1/2" nuts to get it to be somewhat tight. If it stretches any, i have no adjustment left.

#68 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2012 - 07:41 PM

I am using an 82" on mine, I also changed my outside mandril pullies and used a smaller Idler pully. 1" may make the difference you need.

#69 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2012 - 07:06 AM

I got to thinking about the belt tension more. I think I will take the tension adjustment rod off and see if I can add more threads to it. I have close to the correct tension right now, but if the belt stretches any, it will be too loose and jump off. Either that or just add more spacers at the front. But the best solution would be a shorter belt, say 81".
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Edit:
I went out and looked things over. Cannot tension the belt anymore or it will rub on the cross shaft the idlers hang from. From the looks of things, this belt is way down inside the pulleys, making me think the belt should be wider than 1/2". That would account for the length showing as long. New Holland says it's supposed to be 1/2" wide, but I am wondering if that's another misprint?

Edited by KennyP, August 03, 2012 - 09:48 AM.


#70 Bmerf OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2012 - 02:56 PM

Kenny, The belts on the 195 are 5/8 inch wide, maybe yours should be too? Just a thought.
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#71 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2012 - 07:50 PM

I had to make a new Muel adjusting rod. Once it cools some this evening I;ll go look for those pictures. I am running a 1/2 belt and it too rides low in the new pullies but I kept the center pully orginal which takes a 1/2 belt.

#72 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2012 - 04:47 AM

I need to pull a side cover and see how the belt sits in the PTO pulley. If it is way down in there, then I'm guessing it should be a wider belt. If not, shorter will be the answer.

#73 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2012 - 03:12 PM

Still looking for pictures of mine. I found this vid that I took after having the PTO wires ripped out from a blown belt. I did sugery on the PTO and fixed the wires. This was the post test.
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#74 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2012 - 04:39 PM

Most times, these pulleys are wide in order for the belts to ride low in them on purpose. This gives more of the pulley to "guide" the belt into them. Lots of times when you put in a wider belt that fills these pulleys to the top, the belt will get slung off, as the sides of the belt grab the leading edge of the pulley.
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#75 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2012 - 04:39 PM

Found my Muel Drive pictures. I was missing the adjustment bar so I had to make one. Works great.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Muel 1.JPG
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