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#1 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2012 - 11:01 PM

Curiosity lead me to a buy the other day and I'm yet to determine if it was a good one. Not buyers remorse but more like; 'is this something I plan to keep' for myself or gift to a friend who has a lot of lawn and not the best of health for labor. That being said here it is...


snapper 28085.jpg


It's a Snapper model# 28085, presently powered with an 11hp Briggs which doesn't seem original and has some carb issue(s), starts and dies. Haven't spent much time on it and would like to get some ideas from you guys, so fire away! I posted a request for manual, but without the correct # off engine, this may be a slow long walk.
Thanks.
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#2 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2012 - 11:28 PM

Those Snappers are tough old mowing machines. My Grandpa had a couple of them over the years and loved them. For a riding lawn mower, they do a nice job. Take the bagger off the back and you can stand them on there rear end to change and sharpen the blade, coolest thing about them I always thought.
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#3 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2012 - 04:28 AM

According to what you have it is a 28" deck, with 8 h.p. motor and a Series 5 rider.

28085=
28 deck size
08 is the h.p.
5 is the series.

It looks like you have the HiVac deck, the 28" and 33" we're HiVacs, they were made for bagging. The 25" and 30" we're side discharge.

This old Snappers have been around forever, I saw one for sale that was supposed to a 1958 model.


I have a 3011511BE

This is 30" cut, 11.5 h.p., series 11, with a Briggs and Electric start.

Edited by Amigatec, July 08, 2012 - 04:34 AM.

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#4 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2012 - 04:40 AM

I have a manual for mine and there isnt a lot of difference between them, I know the rudder drive disc has changed over time, mine has the "smooth clutch" in it. About the only other thing would adjusting the deck belt. Under the seat were the pipe goes into the frame there may be some shim behind it, that is where you adjust it.
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#5 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2012 - 05:53 AM

That machine is a cut above most of the older rear engine riders you see out there. That will make a nice mower for someone who needs a machine to maneuver in tight areas.
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#6 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2012 - 06:09 AM

Hope the issues are a simple fix! Might be a good mower to 'donate' if said person can handle emptying the bagger.
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#7 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2012 - 06:32 AM

If you need any help with repairs I have done quite a bit to mine. The biggest problems will be with the rudder drive disc underneath. They tend to wear out quickly.
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#8 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2012 - 08:31 AM

Those Snappers are tough old mowing machines. My Grandpa had a couple of them over the years and loved them. For a riding lawn mower, they do a nice job. Take the bagger off the back and you can stand them on there rear end to change and sharpen the blade, coolest thing about them I always thought.

Exactly the position I used to store it in the garage (space saver) removed tank to drain..

#9 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2012 - 08:39 AM

We were Snapper dealers and we sold hundreds of those Snapper riders. ....They are great machines, and I prefer the older ones to the newer ones.

They are simple to maintain & repair. .....The weakest part is probably the axle bushings, which are easy to replace. ....If adjusted properly, the rubber drive disc will last a long time.

The clutch pedal is only used to start & stop the machine. ....Press the clutch - Put in 1st Gear - Release clutch and you're moving - shift up & down through any forward speed without using the clutch. .....Use the clutch to stop or to shift into reverse. (For safety, you have to hold the shift lever in the reverse position.).....It's a very simple and reliable drive mechanism.

If you have the need for a mower, I would encourage you to keep it, and do what is necessary to get it operational. ....It is a much better mower than most of what is sold new today!

I will try to scan & post a Snapper manual for you. ...I don't have anything on the 11hp B&S engine.

Edited by Bruce Dorsi, July 08, 2012 - 08:40 AM.

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#10 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2012 - 08:58 AM

According to what you have it is a 28" deck, with 8 h.p. motor and a Series 5 rider.

28085=
28 deck size
08 is the h.p.
5 is the series.

It looks like you have the HiVac deck, the 28" and 33" we're HiVacs, they were made for bagging. The 25" and 30" we're side discharge.

This old Snappers have been around forever, I saw one for sale that was supposed to a 1958 model.


I have a 3011511BE

This is 30" cut, 11.5 h.p., series 11, with a Briggs and Electric start.

I have a manual for mine and there isnt a lot of difference between them, I know the rudder drive disc has changed over time, mine has the "smooth clutch" in it. About the only other thing would adjusting the deck belt. Under the seat were the pipe goes into the frame there may be some shim behind it, that is where you adjust it.

If you need any help with repairs I have done quite a bit to mine. The biggest problems will be with the rudder drive disc underneath. They tend to wear out quickly.

I guess 8hp is gone, this 11hp looks like it can take an e starter. There is a Hi Vac label. Went to snapper site but got no results with the 28..# I entered. I've watched a few tube vids including one where the guy was running a plow on a snowy day. Will post better pics later if possible, Thanks for weighing in.

#11 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2012 - 10:08 AM

Mine is a halfbreed, the back half is the 3011511BE and the front half is a 250815B I believe. The pivot slot under the seat was worn out, and the steering was messed up, it wanted to stick when turned all the way, so I bought a parts mower. There may or may not be a bushing on the left rear axle, if it does it will have a grease fitting, if it doesn't it will have a bearing. The bearings were found on mostly the higher HP models.

The deck lift on mine is from the 250815B mower but the deck is from the 3011511BE model. I liked the newer deck lift better.

I have a video where I changed it out.



#12 Kurtee OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2012 - 10:09 AM

I used to do custom mowing with a 30" Snapper. The first thing I would do if I was going to use this machine is to put tubes in all the tires. No leakage issues so the machine stays level and cuts level. I always added an extra clutch spring so that it will pull the hills better. An oil can and a grease gun will work wonders with this thing. Well oiled steering and shifting linkages make these things easier to operate. Bruce is exactly correct in the operating of the shift. Always start in 1st and work up, saves the disc and is easier on the drive gears. There is a tapered bolt in each rear wheel that can work loose. If it comes loose you can snap it off. Take the wheel off and tighten the bolt, hit it with a hammer on the taper side and tighten again. The Snapper rider will mow and mow and mow with some maintainence.
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#13 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2012 - 10:35 AM

I had so much trouble with the front wheels I bought foam filled ones, if the air type go just a little bit low they will roll off the rims. I had probably 6 of these do it, now with the foam filled they never need air. LOL

Another thing that helps is to adjust the deck. On the front left side hanger near the foot rest will be a cam adjuster, this will adjust the side to side level, on the deck at the back under the cover, is a long threaded rod that adjusts the front to back tilt. After a few try's I got mine where it cuts level.
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#14 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2012 - 01:02 PM

Here are some pics guys for review...
IMG_7233.JPG IMG_7234.JPG IMG_7235.JPG IMG_7236.JPG IMG_7238.JPG IMG_7239.JPG IMG_7240.JPG IMG_7241.JPG IMG_7242.JPG IMG_7243.JPG IMG_7245.JPG IMG_7247.JPG

thinkin' the carb may be from original motor as I've seen these powered by white colored examples..?

#15 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2012 - 03:11 PM

The pictures are upside down, but here is what happens when you don't grease the left rear axle.

Like I say some have a bearing and some have a bushing the bushings will have the zerk. I replaced the bearing in mine and packed it full when I did. I also replaced the rubber boots on the axles. I have seen these run without boots and they will get rusty and then it will hard to shift.



Also you might want to check the to shift linkages at the very back for wear, on mine these were so worn that it wouldn't hardy pull itself, it you tried to drive up a small hill you would have to get off and push. in fact that is the reason way it was given to me, nobody could figure out what was wrong. After I replaced them, it would pop wheelies.

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