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Briggs Model N Restoration


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#16 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2012 - 09:43 AM

Looks like you have a great starting point. That engine has been kept well.

Where did you find the info for the engines? I have a 6b that I'd like to know more about.

Thanks, and here are the two sites I use for small engine info. One is ANTIQUE & VINTAGE BRIGGS & STRATTON STATIONARY GAS ENGINES, and the other is ANTIQUE SMALL ENGINE COLLECTORS CLUB, www.asecc.com. These sites are full of info on these old Briggs engines, including date lists, and just lots of great info. :thumbs: The first site I listed is the one with the detailed date charts.

Matt

Edited by bowtiebutler956, June 30, 2012 - 09:44 AM.

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#17 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2012 - 11:18 AM

Matt, I'm not sure if the "N" and "S 'series will interchange the carbs, but Thanks to you, I see they made the model "5" which uses the right style carb for to use a remote gas tank. Thanks

#18 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2012 - 01:42 PM

Just found another great site for these old Briggs. Its called Mike & Jens old engines.

Matt

Edited by bowtiebutler956, June 30, 2012 - 01:44 PM.

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#19 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted July 02, 2012 - 07:00 AM

Matt, I'm not sure if the "N" and "S 'series will interchange the carbs, but Thanks to you, I see they made the model "5" which uses the right style carb for to use a remote gas tank. Thanks


Brian, they didn't make an "S" series. The S behind the 5 or 6 or even an N shows that the engine was equipped with a suction carb.
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#20 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2012 - 06:10 PM

I've been kind of busy, so I haven't done much to the N, but I did clean the crank up, and as expected the crank journal cleaned up almost instantly with some 320 emery cloth. I also removed the broke off exhaust pipe nipple from the block. Here is a pic of the crank. :thumbs:

Matt

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#21 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2012 - 06:35 PM

Just another quick update. I finished disassembling the block, and cleaned it up good. The markes around the exhaust valve must have come from someone using pliers or vise grips to remove a stuck valve, because the seat was fine. However, there was alot of rust in the exhaust port. I dropped the block off at the machine shop to have a valve job done, hone cylinder, and have the surface decked to remove those marks from around the exhaust valve. I also bought a new rod for it, along with a new set of .010 piston rings. Here are a couple of pics of the new parts. I was very surprised at how cheap the new rod, and rings were. $18 rod, $15 rings. That is much cheaper than the parts were for the 9FB I rebuilt recently. The machine work is $50. :thumbs:

Matt

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#22 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2012 - 09:30 AM

I just saw this, and it already seems like you have made some good progress! Keep it up!
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#23 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2012 - 05:52 PM

Brian, they didn't make an "S" series. The S behind the 5 or 6 or even an N shows that the engine was equipped with a suction carb.


Doug, I think that must be right. I have a 5S and it has a suction carb and tank on it. I need to find the right carb to run a remote tank.

#24 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2012 - 05:53 PM

Just another quick update. I finished disassembling the block, and cleaned it up good. The markes around the exhaust valve must have come from someone using pliers or vise grips to remove a stuck valve, because the seat was fine. However, there was alot of rust in the exhaust port. I dropped the block off at the machine shop to have a valve job done, hone cylinder, and have the surface decked to remove those marks from around the exhaust valve. I also bought a new rod for it, along with a new set of .010 piston rings. Here are a couple of pics of the new parts. I was very surprised at how cheap the new rod, and rings were. $18 rod, $15 rings. That is much cheaper than the parts were for the 9FB I rebuilt recently. The machine work is $50. :thumbs:

Matt


Looks like you are making some headway on the engine Matt. I have to get busy on some of my stuff... :(
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#25 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2012 - 06:26 PM

Well, I did a little more today, and got a couple more goodies in the mail. There is a guy on ebay, that sells vintage style cloth covered spark plug wire, vintage spark plugs, and plug wire ends, and he'll sell you enough to do 2 engines for less than $10. I bought one of his kits, and chose vintage Western Auto twin fire plugs, although he also has Champion, and others. I also painted the blower housing, heat shield, and head. I sandblasted the head before painting. Here are a few pics. :thumbs: I also got an old vintage type ball muffler.

Matt

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Edited by bowtiebutler956, July 06, 2012 - 06:27 PM.

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#26 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2012 - 06:37 PM

Some very neat "touches" to this restore. That twin fire is great, I'd have picked it too.
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#27 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2012 - 01:08 AM

Doug, I think that must be right. I have a 5S and it has a suction carb and tank on it. I need to find the right carb to run a remote tank.



Well not to start any disagreements...but briggs did make an S series engine in 1930-1933, of 1/2hp. Most of them seemed to be lever starts so i would have guessed maybe for washing machine trade.

The S that applys in this thread, would stand for suction type carb. the most popular ones would be the 5S and 6S models, but once in a while you do see a model NS come up for sale. Im not sure that i dont have an 8S here some place on a shelf. Not a big fan of suction carbs and the fuel tank problems they get.

Not many people relize that there were probally a millon plus walk-behinds built that used engines of only 1.6hp and less. Other than a few tiller models, i dont know of any that used suction carbs, other than modern ones sporting a 2 1/2 hp and up engines.
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#28 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2012 - 05:03 PM

Finished another piece of the puzzle today. I sanded, and repainted the air filter housing, along with putting a set of reproduction decals on it. :thumbs:

Matt

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#29 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2012 - 05:42 PM

Nice decals. Really will make the engine look like brand new again!
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#30 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2012 - 05:20 PM

I got the gas tank painted today, you know its kind of funny, this is the correct size gas tank for our little Bantam GT,except you would have to extend the filler neck, and back when I was restoring it, every one of these tanks I bid on went for big money on ebay, so I ended up buying a reproduction tank from a guy, that was made from 4" exhaust pipe, but after I finish the resto, I bought this complete model N on ebay for $25 with a tank thats in great condition. Go Figure! :bigrofl: I also painted the oil pan, and put a new decal on the tank. Here are a couple pics. :thumbs:

Matt

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