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Just Purchased Mtd 990


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#61 achomesteader OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 08:34 PM

Only one wire is needed. It should go to the "M" terminal on the key switch.
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#62 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 08:48 PM

Was just reading this posting and found this info on coil. I have a 10hp and 16hp Briggs, both in Farm Kings and wonder if this one will work in it. Price is way low from others I've seen listed there. My book calls for a 298968 coil and I have never seen anything close to those numbers listed on epay. They are all thirty somethings to start. I have points in flywheel too. What ya think? Try one? My 10 never had spartk and the 16 seems to come and go.

#63 achomesteader OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2012 - 09:54 PM

Was just reading this posting and found this info on coil. I have a 10hp and 16hp Briggs, both in Farm Kings and wonder if this one will work in it. Price is way low from others I've seen listed there. My book calls for a 298968 coil and I have never seen anything close to those numbers listed on epay. They are all thirty somethings to start. I have points in flywheel too. What ya think? Try one? My 10 never had spartk and the 16 seems to come and go.


Will work if you have the flywheel re-polarized.

#64 Kentrails OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 12:17 PM

I just posted this manual in the MTD section

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  • 1.jpg

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#65 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 01:35 PM

I just posted this manual in the MTD section


How are you coming on your 990?

#66 Kentrails OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2012 - 03:18 PM

Yesterday the magneto arrived. Looking at the wiring on this thing and looking at the schematic, I see that it has been over engineered. There is no safety switches , which is fine. But he added a on-off switch, and omitted the amp-meter. I want it to be oem ( minus the OSHA approval)
The wiring schematic isn't very clear. I don't know why the electrical part is so intimidating, it is voodoo you know...
So I have purchased all the correct color wire and I am going to use the schematic from this photo.
Although, it is not the same model as mine, I am sure it will work.

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  • 29.jpg


#67 Kentrails OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2012 - 03:24 PM

I finally found time to work on this , The ignition it a 3 pole ignition, not the correct type. Now to find the right one, I want this thing to be as close to oem as possible, I am irritated :wallbanging:.Locally they want $23. plus shipping. On the Internet $11 including shipping.....I hate the wait of internet shopping, I will call around


Totally Frustrated

#68 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2012 - 04:48 PM

I just bought two on epay. One is later year model, 81 and up and other is exact number I didn't find earlier. Later one was $29.95 and I bought, then right after found early version for $17, durn! so bought that one too. I have two engines needing work, so should be good with whichever I use. I'm not even sure that is the issue with no spark, but there isn't much other stuff to look at besides points really!! :wallbanging: :smilewink:

#69 Kentrails OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2012 - 03:51 PM

Got the right ignition an MTD Brand. Purchased locally $22. I am to impatient. Now to show pictures.
OEM~IGN.jpg
The letters stamped in the plastic backing are represented by the coloured letters, which will match the dedicated wires in the first schematic
mtd~ign.jpg
S > to solenoid
M(Yellow) > to Magneto
B > to ampmeter
G > to chassis ?( not sure )
L > The " L" terninal: not to be used, no connection! (correction as per post #70)

this is the schematic I am referencingscheme.jpg but not my exact model.

This one is for my particular model schem.jpg , both schem have only four poles,
which is confusing cuz the part no. 725-0267( superceded#925-0627B) has 5, as you can see above.


This post is just an update, possibly may help some other confused individual, If I am doing it right that is?

Please correct any errors, I am not using safety switches.

Edited by Kentrails, November 02, 2012 - 03:35 PM.


#70 achomesteader OFFLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2012 - 08:08 AM

If I'm not badly mistaken, your engine is equipped with a dual circuit alternator as shown in the pic below.

Dual Circuit Alternator.jpg

Your light circuit is AC volts, so the green wire from your lights should go to chassis ground, and so should the "G" terminal of the ignition switch. You won't be using the "L" terminal on your ignition switch as it will be DC volts when the ignition switch is on.
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#71 Kentrails OFFLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2012 - 03:20 PM

Yes, you are correct about the leads , BL& R from from the stator to connector, then R & W.
The R lead will go to ammeter, The W lead goes to light switch?
Thanks for the data on the grounding, I didn't get that from the schematic.
And the "L" terminal wil be empty...

Thanks, I will correct the previous post, as not to confuse.

#72 achomesteader OFFLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2012 - 07:46 PM

Yes, you are correct about the leads , BL& R from from the stator to connector, then R & W.
The R lead will go to ammeter, The W lead goes to light switch?
Thanks for the data on the grounding, I didn't get that from the schematic.
And the "L" terminal wil be empty...

Thanks, I will correct the previous post, as not to confuse.


Yes, red to ammeter and white to light switch.
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#73 Kentrails OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2012 - 03:45 PM

Well... After finally finding the time, finishing the wiring, and turning the key....... :thumbs: :dancingbanana:




Thank You gentlemen for all your instruction. I never would have acomplished this task if not for your experience, and expertise :worshippy1:

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Edited by Kentrails, December 01, 2012 - 09:23 PM.


#74 Canawler OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2012 - 06:10 PM

Congratulations! :D

Great feeling, isn't it?

Edited by Canawler, December 01, 2012 - 06:10 PM.

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#75 achomesteader OFFLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2012 - 05:46 AM

That's a sweet sound! Posted Image
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