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Wisconsin Tra10d For Sale Local


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#1 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2012 - 09:01 PM

I bought a TRA10D motor today. Just wanted some feedback. Guy says he has gone through it and it runs well and no smoke.....I no the crank will do work on my bushhog....but with the one on my bushhog having been totally frozen (when I drained the oil....50% of it was water), I was thinking at the this would be a good back up if my block is cracked, etc....see any issues or holes in my theory? I bought it for $75...does have the starter generator with it but sounds like it would need to be rebuilt. Here are a few pictures of the motor. Compression is good. Also what do you think it was powering?? I looked up the serial number up and it's production date was 1966.

Attached Thumbnails

  • TRA10Da.JPG
  • TRA10Db.JPG
  • TRA10Dc.JPG
  • TRA10Dd.JPG

Edited by sacsr, June 27, 2012 - 09:31 PM.


#2 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2012 - 09:21 PM

If nothing else i like the price. There is just something about the old wisconsins that i like. All the ones i have ever seen look to be torque monsters.
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#3 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2012 - 09:29 PM

Scott, you bot a good deal on it. I'm not sure what it was on, but you have a place for it. :laughingteeth:
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#4 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2012 - 05:45 AM

I think you made a good decision on getting it. Always nice to have a spare around.
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#5 Wheel Horse Kid OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2012 - 06:57 AM

I agree that $75 was a great deal for that motor! Those are probably pretty rare finds. I am also not sure what it came from. What motor does your Bush Hog have in it now?
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#6 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2012 - 07:07 AM

It has a TRA10-D in it, but from what I have learned from Daniel, the crank end is tapered on the bush hogs and not on these other motors. So crank could not be used but I am thinking the rest could be.

#7 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2012 - 07:11 AM

Is there a good machine shop in the area? Might be simpler to have the crank tapered instead of trying to mix and match, getting plasti-gauge and all that.

Good buy on what looks to be a nice engine.

#8 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2012 - 07:20 AM

Good question. I have a good machine shop......I am not sure if the tapered shaft is the only difference. I have never been into one of the motors at this point.....the particular BH that has the TRA10-D is currently in line behind several other BH so this was more of a stumble onto motor that I figured may come in handy at some point. Daniel has torn one of these BH wisconsin's down so maybe he can provide some light to whether machining the crank would work. Seems like the crank in my BH sticks out in the front and the back.

#9 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2012 - 08:12 AM

It has a TRA10-D in it, but from what I have learned from Daniel, the crank end is tapered on the bush hogs and not on these other motors. So crank could not be used but I am thinking the rest could be.


Not tapered, but extended on the flywheel side for the pto clutch to slide onto. If not intending to use a pto clutch on this engine, then if the crankshaft output shaft is the right diameter, one could have the crank end turned in it's end for a clutch pilot bushing.
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#10 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2012 - 08:45 AM

Daniel would the crank have to be taken off for the machine shop to do this? I am assuming yes......would be nice if I could drop this motor in for now and have another running GT.


One other thing.....in the first picture with the pulley....the top right bolt hole just above the pulley goes completely through into the case......when I rotated the motor I could feel air coming out from the hole. What goes in/or attached here that would fill up the hole?

Edited by sacsr, June 28, 2012 - 08:47 AM.


#11 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2012 - 09:52 AM

To do it right, yes, the crank would need taken out. But I have heard of things like this being done "in engine" by sitting the entire engine on the lathe bed, then attaching chuck to the flywheel side. I would take it out myself.
On the Bush Hog TRA's, all 4 holes that attach the bell housing are open to the crankcase. I found that out by removing the bell housing, then carrying the engine into my shop....yep....oil all over my waist! Likely on that engine there was a belt guard that bolted there.
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