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Frankenpanzer Build Thread #3


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#46 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2012 - 02:46 PM

I did manage to find some white paint and paint today. Thought about posting some pics, but just imagine the same parts I had in the previous posts, only white and turquoise ;) It'll probably be the end of the week before it all gets back together. Going to let the paint cure well b/c parts back there may get a little greasy upon reassembly. Also, got to wait for the sprocket and an oil seal in the mail before finishing.

#47 BowDown ONLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2012 - 07:59 AM

Out of curiosity.. What is the diameter of the shifter rod?

#48 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2012 - 08:36 AM

Out of curiosity.. What is the diameter of the shifter rod?


It's a half inch, I believe. I found a polished aluminum knob that said it fit all sizes up to 1/2. But what it turned out to be is just a plastic cap that goes on the shift rod to hold it snug in the shift knob, and then 4 set screws to hold it fast to the shaft. I think it will work out, but I was expecting to have to thread the shifter. Now, I don't have to.

Paint was nice and dry this morning. One nice thing about painting on a hot, humid day with slow reducer is that the paint does flow together like glass.

Looking forward to getting this done. Too bad I've gotta wait for a couple little parts.

#49 BowDown ONLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2012 - 09:47 AM

True, but the eye candy must be nice too. :)

Thanks for the info. Was looking for parts online for a lever style clutch setup. Most motorcycles use 7/8" tubes.. so a shim will be in order.

#50 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2012 - 11:17 AM

Instead of shimming, you could take an end of the 7/8 tube and beat it flat to join the 1/2 rod. I see what you mean about a lever style clutch. That would be cool for a PK style clutch, though I have to wonder if it would take more effort than would be comfortable for a hand lever. Only one way to find out.

#51 BowDown ONLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2012 - 11:19 AM

This is true. You figure they use those kind of levers on a motorcycle clutch pack all the time.. I wouldn't imagine my spring tensioner setup would be more effort than that?

#52 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2012 - 07:26 PM

The paint's good and dry. Except for the one spot where one of the bolts broke loose and I had to re-weld and re-paint with a shaker.

Took one pic. If you took a Panzer driveshaft and mated it with a Power King, this is what their baby would look like.
IMG-20120709-00114.jpg

Now I just wish I'd ground down the frankenstein weld on the outside. I thought leaving the weld may make it look beefy. But the white just seemed to bring out the imperfections. Oh, well.

#53 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 11, 2012 - 10:31 AM

Still waiting on just one... little... part. But since I got the 10t sprocket, I just couldn't help to do one more fitting just to make sure the chain was the right length and the tranny cleared the sprocket cover. Got good results on both fronts.

IMG-20120711-00116.jpg IMG-20120711-00115.jpg

#54 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 11, 2012 - 10:36 AM

It looks good in there! Does anything cover the area where you connected the drive-shaft to to the tranny input?
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#55 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 11, 2012 - 11:52 AM

Thanks. There is still one support, and the drive lever that go in there which kinda block off the top of that assembly. But you're right that it could still use a cover. I was going to start to do that some days ago out of sheet metal when i figured out that the top of that hole is not rectangular. The bearing support on the tranny and the rear bearing holding up the drive shaft both stick up a little.

But now you got me thinking again about it and I think what I'll do is make a u shaped cover out of 2 pieces of 1/8 angle. It's overkill, but it will hold its shape and allow for a perfectly flat top by raising it up about an inch. Seems like a lot of weight for just a cover, but one thing I noticed is how unbalanced a panzer's weight is to the drivers side. The engine and the input to the diff are both on that side and mine is made worse by having a big engine. It's very noticeable when you try to jack it up under the hitch. So... Adding weight on the other side can only help even out the weight. In fact, that's one of the reasons why I like how big and beefy the power king tranny is with all the brackets. Then again, I did have to move the battery more over toward the drivers side... Doh!

I'll add as much weight as I like to this thing. With the way it's built, I don't think weight would be a problem till I hit about a ton.

#56 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 11, 2012 - 11:52 AM

Looking good! I'm ready of the test run video!
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#57 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 11, 2012 - 01:21 PM

Looking good! I'm ready of the test run video!


We think alike. I just checked the mailbox. As soon as that part gets here, It'll be about a half an hour till test run. Oh wait, I'll have a silicone gasket that'll have to sit overnight. Drats!

#58 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 11, 2012 - 05:09 PM

Do it right when the parts come in, Dean. We want this to last a bit, you know!
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#59 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2012 - 10:56 AM

Well, no parts last night, but definitely today.
Though it may get delayed by getting parts together for my next 'build'. Though it will be implement work this time and not tractor work.

#60 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2012 - 09:45 PM

Okay, so the part came in today.
I've spent more time on the rear of the tranny than any other part of this build. See, the crosley tranny isn't sealed. And the guy at the crosley parts place recommend dual sealed bearings to stop the grease from leaking out. Even double sealed bearings allow a little grease to get by when it is leaned back at an angle.

If you look in the first picture, you can see the speedometer gear. I put a little rtv sealant around the outer edge of the bearing seal behind it to act as a first line of defense in keeping the gear oil in the case.
IMG-20120712-00117.jpg

In the previous picture, I put 4 small welds around the edge that I could carefully grind down to hold in an oil seal securely like below.
IMG-20120712-00118.jpg

Next took the seal back out, put rtv silicone around the lip, seated the seal, then followed up with some more RTV on the outer edge. The seal has a 1 inch ID and the spacer I slip on the shaft to space the sprocket has a 1 inch od to match.
IMG-20120712-00120.jpg

Even thought the RTV was still wet, I could slide the support bracket on without disturbing it and finish mounting the sprocket.
IMG-20120712-00121.jpg

I got the whole tractor back together and did a level very easy test. Want to give all that silicone a night to seal before it has any chance of touching oil. You'd have to go on a hill to give it enough lean for tranny lube to be up against the rear seals.

Anyway, I was very happy with the quick test. The low/low is nice and slow, but I may tweak the sprocket down from 10t to 9t to get it to that 'barely moving' state in low/low. My goal was to be able to do most things on the 'high' Panzer pulley, but I think I may want to slow it down just a hair. Though I got time to worry about that later - it would be an easy swap, and I may change my mind later.
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