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Frankenpanzer Build Thread #3


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#31 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2012 - 07:44 AM

Okay, I got some time yesterday eventing to complete the rough fitting.
And... TEST DRIVE.
I just stuck the seat back on, used the pull start, and had a go of it. I was very happy with the shifting and the drivetrain. This is definitely going to be a very useful modification.

The one thing that I must change is the new drive sprocket. I did all of my calculations and decided to use a 12 tooth sprocket (stock is 8). I don't know why I thought it would be 30% increase in top speed when it's actually more like 50%. I wanted to bump top speed up a little and make high/low a little lower than my current low. Looks like I missed the mark just a little. It wasn't car fast or anything, but it was a little faster than comfortable on a tractor. And low/low wasn't quite the stump puller that I wanted it to be.

So... I spent a few bucks on that 12t sprocket and now I'll have to spend a little more on a 10 tooth one. I'm very confident that will be the right size. It should put me right where I wanted to be with the 12t.

Pictures of the rough fitting. It's mounted a little high right now, but I'm going to be able to remove a full link from the chain once I get my 10t sprocket and that should lower it way down.
IMG-20120704-00109.jpg IMG-20120704-00110.jpg IMG-20120705-00111.jpg

#32 BowDown ONLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2012 - 07:56 AM

Awesome man! Love the dedication to thinking outside the box.

I would be interested in taking the 12T off you hands. I need to source the tranny yet... but I'm not reusing the stock shaft pulley so I can compensate a bit for your discovery.
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#33 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2012 - 08:19 AM

Thanks. Yeah, let me know if you want the sprocket. I could send it shipped to NY for $10 and get a few bucks back. It's total use time is .111 hours ;)

Next steps:
Cut and place the shifter in a more comfortable location. It has the potential of being a rooster to hen conversion kit right now.
Cut out the sprocket cover and fit it to the tranny.
Finish weld the tranny to driveshaft bracket. Going to weld in a couple of crossmembers in the bottom for stiffness and create a 16 ga steel cover for the top. It would be possible for a jacket string or something to go down in, get caught, and wind around the driveshaft.
Paint!

After taking that thing out for that test drive, I wish all panzers were built the same cause I'd consider making more to sell for a little profit. But they are all different and there is some cutting on the mounts that needs to be done to make room for the tranny. Just replacing the stock driveshaft (has bronze bushings) with an all-bearing drive itself is a big improvement in smoothness.

#34 BowDown ONLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2012 - 08:53 AM

I see your engine is solid mount. How smooth is your clone? My T70 has the isolated mount... but I was thinking of going solid mount so I can free up some belt room under the engine pulley.

#35 BowDown ONLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2012 - 08:58 AM

Is that a #40 chain? Seems wider than I remember mine being?

#36 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2012 - 10:21 AM

Is that a #40 chain? Seems wider than I remember mine being?


I don't really notice any vibration other than what I'd consider normal for a lawnmower. I think most are solid mount to begin with. What I have been impressed with is that this is the quietest lawnmower I've ever used, including pushmowers. Having replaced all the spindle bearings, idler pulleys, and putting a Harley muffler on it. It just makes a nice humming sound. Contrary to popular belief those Harley mufflers do a fantastic job of quieting for as short as they are. It's just that most guys remove the stock mufflers.

The chain on a stock Panzer is #50. I'm still using the stock big sprocket and staying with #50 chain. You could also use #530 if you find parts you want with that numbering system. Anything for a motorcycle would be labeled as #530, anything ANSI would be numbered #50.

#37 BowDown ONLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2012 - 10:35 AM

Ours must be different then. My parts breakout for the T70B calls out for #40 chain 38" long.. and yours does seem a bit wider. My Busa runs a 530 chain I believe and that's much bigger. I'll have to measure the chain when I get home.

Good to hear on the solid mount. I too am going to run a Harley muffler.. but it's a screaming eagle with the side turnout. I custom fabbed them onto my Busa for a short while.. IDLE was AWESOME! But after that they was a bit obnoxious. LOL

#38 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2012 - 02:16 PM

I'd never considered that the older models may have a different chain size.
Guess that kills the sprocket swap then, because the one I have is a different pitch.
There's a guy on youtube that runs a busa or some 4 cylinder motorcycle engine on a panzer. Thank God for youtube because without it what other purpose could such a thing serve.

Dunno when or how much I'll get back to the project. It's awefully hot. My dream garage has A/C now.

#39 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2012 - 09:31 PM

A tight fit that is! It looks good though, almost like the tranny was made to fit there perfectly!
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#40 BowDown ONLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2012 - 08:28 AM

The 10T pulley will net you as follows:

1st/R: 32% Reduction
2nd: 3% Reduction
3rd: 25% Increase
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#41 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2012 - 11:11 AM

The 10T pulley will net you as follows:

1st/R: 32% Reduction
2nd: 3% Reduction
3rd: 25% Increase


Yeah, I think that I got a good enough feel for what the 12t was all about versus 8t, and I'm pretty comfortable with splitting it down the middle.

A little more progress... I finished fitting with cutting the sprocket guard out to fit. Did my final welding. Took a link out of the chain in preparation for a smaller sprocket. Did some work I wanted to with the seat mount. Now I'm starting to take it apart to start getting ready for some white paint. Going to fill the tranny with oil first, then scrub it real good to make sure I have all the oil up.. but need to be careful to keep the tranny upright as to not let any at all have a chance at coming around the input or output seals.

The one part I need to finish won't be here till Tuesday. In a way, that's a good thing b/c It'll let me slow down a bit and be careful about my painting. Decided that I'm not going to put any more reinforcement or covers on to the place where the tranny and driveshaft meet. It's plenty heavy enough, it's tucked up under where no one's pant leg should get caught in it, and adding any additional cross members or plates is just going to be places for the grass clippings to get stuck in.

After moving over the battery box and seeing it kinda together, it really is going to look like it belongs there. Before the battery box just sat in the middle kind of awkwardly and the big engine on the left side made it noticably heavier on the left side. Now, this will level out the weighting of the tractor and the battery looks like it belongs sitting next to the tranny... Pictures.
IMG-20120706-00112.jpg IMG-20120706-00113.jpg
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#42 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2012 - 03:51 PM

While I was out starting to clean the thing up for paint, I had a couple of other thoughts of things that adding this transmission will help about the panzer.
1) Since it's all sealed bearings, there will be no bushings and no reason to put a grease fitting on the drive shaft. No grease in the driveshaft means none seeping out behind the big 3-pulley and flinging all over the place. Same goes at the rear end, though it's usually not a problem for a little grease to seep around the drive sprocket.

2) For reverse, not only will it have a geared reverse to use, but if I choose to use the stock panzer reverse tire, it's going to cut reverse speed at least in half in first gear. I could see still using that when mowing for quick backups. Less stress on the reverse tire means less of the rubber dust that gets spread around the front of the engine and the grill.

3) I almost forgot. Neutral is sweet with a tranny. the rear end can just freewheel and it doesn't need to turn the entire driveshaft and 3-pulley to move. You can just push it around the garage no problem

Also, for anyone considering putting in one of these transmissions (and you know who you are), I'd recommend using the powerking tranny instead of the crosley. The crosley tranny doesn't come standard with seals at both the input and output shafts, and I've been working on retrofitting seals. The powerking tranny (newer than crosley) will have regular grease seals at both ends. Though if you do end up with a crosley, the guy at servicemotors.com is real helpful on replacing the bearings and getting it (more) sealed up for tractor use.

Edited by cookiemonster, July 06, 2012 - 04:17 PM.

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#43 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2012 - 06:39 PM

Dean, that is going to be a sweet little tractor when you get it all finished. Glad you are taking us along for this!
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#44 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2012 - 11:22 PM

Thanks guys. Just trying to get excited about cleaning and painting. Need to do some bodywork on the sprocket cover cause I've modified it like 4 times and it's got all kinds of dips in it. Don't mind painting, but I hate bodywork.

#45 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2012 - 08:59 PM

Only update for today is I worked on the cleaning, sanding and just a little bit of bondo. Of course, I find that I'm out of white paint and I really don't want to use shaker can paint on this stuff... especially the tranny. The next time I'll get it this clean is never, and I want it to stay.

Thought I'd get painting done tomorrow and put it all back together on Wednesday, but not so sure now.




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