Improving A Stock Puller
Posted June 21, 2012 - 10:09 PM
12 hp stock bored 30 over. 25lb steel flywheel. The governor weights have been lightened.
Rear end is not locked or welded; runs 10.5 rear tires, gears are stock
Any and all suggestions would be appreciated, didn't know if lowering the front would help or not, what the best gears for pulling are any engine modifications I can do.
As far as rules the I am in the 12hp and under 1000lbs 13in hitch, no cut tires, no more than 30 over. That’s all I have right now.
Thanks in advance, Joe
Posted June 21, 2012 - 11:29 PM
What size tires are you running and what style? V tractor lug type or chevron style (pitbull, lawntec, dick cepek)
And what type of track ,as in clay or black dirt, did you get beat at?
Posted June 22, 2012 - 09:26 AM
Posted June 22, 2012 - 10:03 AM
Posted June 22, 2012 - 11:18 AM
Posted June 22, 2012 - 01:05 PM
The next would be to make brackets for the rear to add weight at the rear.
The other question is what hitch do you have and what height?
Posted June 22, 2012 - 02:50 PM
With a perfect set up the only parts of the tractor touching the ground would be the rear tires. Problem is there are so many factors that must be taken into consideration to get the power to the ground. Track condition plays a major role as do tire pressure, weight positioning, engine tuning and driver experience (shifting weight to spinning tire, proper gear selection, rpm and so on). Spend as much time looking at the other tractors and talking to their drivers as you can.
I have never been a fan of welding up the spider gears in the rear axle since it can cause your tractor to get real squirrely real quick. I have been told that filling your differential with grease will help in keeping both tires hooked up but have never found anyone that has admitted to trying it.
Like most other things in life practice makes perfect and the more hooks you get the better you will able to adjust your tractor to track conditions.
Edited by GTTinkerer, June 22, 2012 - 02:59 PM.
Posted June 22, 2012 - 07:47 PM
Posted June 22, 2012 - 08:22 PM
Posted June 23, 2012 - 01:40 AM
One thing I've seen at tractor pulls both big and small is the experienced older guys don't have it at full throttle as they get down the track. Allowing the gov set to do it's job will many times keep the wheels in contact for longer as you only providing what you need to do the work without excess to cause a spin out.
Maybe not a crowd wower, but you're there to win.
Posted July 18, 2012 - 11:50 PM
Im not sure how the rearend in a garden tractor is setup, but I know in a rearend like whats in my pickup if you take add in some shims to tighten up your spider gears it will essentially give you a posi rear. Might be something to look into...
Hey I've heard of people addin shims to the rear to tightin up the spiders , I'm wondering just how much of a difference it really makes. does it keep both tires spinning when your only goin straight? what about turning,, would it allow you to turn the same as if it wasnt shimmed . I did think about weldin up one of my x-tra carriers a while back but never did have it done. I know once you do it thats it,your stuck with it. After talkinto a few people in here I decided it probably wasnt a good idea , It would be nice to have a locked rearend if you could still turn without any troubles. but ca nt have both huh. lol got any ideas or exp.with addin shims? any info would be great. thanks
Posted July 19, 2012 - 08:41 PM
Posted July 19, 2012 - 11:35 PM
Posted July 22, 2012 - 06:45 PM