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Improving A Stock Puller


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#1 jjfcube OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2012 - 10:09 PM

Ok, so I am new to this forum but have been pulling for about 4 years. I started out just buying a tractor already done on eBay just to get started and the idea was to improve it as I went. The problem or luck in my case was the tractor I got was extremely good, so much to the point that I never had to do anything except change oil and fill gas. Now I was away from pulling for about 2 years and just started back and am doing good except I have been beat a few times by this tractor which as far as I know has his rear end welded. I am looking for advice on anything I can do to improve my tractor in the engine of rear end. I would prefer not to weld it, but I don't know if that will give me that extra stuff I need. Here is some info on my tractor.

12 hp stock bored 30 over. 25lb steel flywheel. The governor weights have been lightened.
Rear end is not locked or welded; runs 10.5 rear tires, gears are stock

Any and all suggestions would be appreciated, didn't know if lowering the front would help or not, what the best gears for pulling are any engine modifications I can do.
As far as rules the I am in the 12hp and under 1000lbs 13in hitch, no cut tires, no more than 30 over. That’s all I have right now.

Thanks in advance, Joe


#2 timtractor OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2012 - 11:29 PM

What is the main tractor? Cub, JD, ect. ?

What size tires are you running and what style? V tractor lug type or chevron style (pitbull, lawntec, dick cepek)

And what type of track ,as in clay or black dirt, did you get beat at?

#3 jjfcube OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2012 - 09:26 AM

My Tractor is a Cub and tractor that has beaten me is a cub, their are some pics of it in my gallery. tires are Carlisle 23-10.50x12 bar tires. Track that majority of pulls are at is loose dirt track.

#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2012 - 10:03 AM

If you are traction limited rather than power limited you will need to change to a better tire or lock up the rear end. If you are being outpowered then that's another story.

#5 jjfcube OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2012 - 11:18 AM

I am spining out, still have power left. have to use stock tire with no cutting. i guess i didn't know if i put in a different set of gears in the rear to give me more ground speed. I usually pull in second gear which i believe is stock, didn't know if i should kick it up to third gear which is stock, or install all new gears to get better speed without losing power?

#6 timtractor OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2012 - 01:05 PM

I would say is to lower your rear wheelie bars. That will lower the height of the front end. That will raise the hitch height when pulling.

The next would be to make brackets for the rear to add weight at the rear.

The other question is what hitch do you have and what height?

#7 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2012 - 02:50 PM

We always used a small tire on the front just for the extra leverage. As far as lowering the wheelie bars I am not sure that is a good idea. When the wheelie bar tire or pad hits the ground you are unloading the rear tire and loosing traction, We have always ran mine as high as the rules would allow and always used a tire instead of a pad for less resistance just in case they did hit the ground.

With a perfect set up the only parts of the tractor touching the ground would be the rear tires. Problem is there are so many factors that must be taken into consideration to get the power to the ground. Track condition plays a major role as do tire pressure, weight positioning, engine tuning and driver experience (shifting weight to spinning tire, proper gear selection, rpm and so on). Spend as much time looking at the other tractors and talking to their drivers as you can.

I have never been a fan of welding up the spider gears in the rear axle since it can cause your tractor to get real squirrely real quick. I have been told that filling your differential with grease will help in keeping both tires hooked up but have never found anyone that has admitted to trying it.

Like most other things in life practice makes perfect and the more hooks you get the better you will able to adjust your tractor to track conditions.

Bill

Edited by GTTinkerer, June 22, 2012 - 02:59 PM.


#8 johnboggs21 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2012 - 07:47 PM

Im not sure how the rearend in a garden tractor is setup, but I know in a rearend like whats in my pickup if you take add in some shims to tighten up your spider gears it will essentially give you a posi rear. Might be something to look into...

#9 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2012 - 08:22 PM

By the way :welcometogttalk: Joe! Its good to have you here! I've never got into pulling, but it looks like alot of fun! :thumbs:

Matt

#10 timtractor OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2012 - 09:59 PM

Hey jjfcube forgot to add :bounce: WELCOME TO GTTALK :orangecool:

If you want to learn alot about pulling with a cub tricks and tips try this site.

http://gardentractor...s.com/index.htm

#11 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2012 - 01:40 AM

Welding the rear would help if you're spinning one tire. But it's a real commitment to going straight all the time.

One thing I've seen at tractor pulls both big and small is the experienced older guys don't have it at full throttle as they get down the track. Allowing the gov set to do it's job will many times keep the wheels in contact for longer as you only providing what you need to do the work without excess to cause a spin out.

Maybe not a crowd wower, but you're there to win.

#12 Salatino OFFLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2012 - 11:50 PM

Im not sure how the rearend in a garden tractor is setup, but I know in a rearend like whats in my pickup if you take add in some shims to tighten up your spider gears it will essentially give you a posi rear. Might be something to look into...




Hey I've heard of people addin shims to the rear to tightin up the spiders , I'm wondering just how much of a difference it really makes. does it keep both tires spinning when your only goin straight? what about turning,, would it allow you to turn the same as if it wasnt shimmed . I did think about weldin up one of my x-tra carriers a while back but never did have it done. I know once you do it thats it,your stuck with it. After talkinto a few people in here I decided it probably wasnt a good idea , It would be nice to have a locked rearend if you could still turn without any troubles. but ca nt have both huh. lol got any ideas or exp.with addin shims? any info would be great. thanks

#13 johnboggs21 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2012 - 08:41 PM

I was going to change the ring and pinion in the rearend of my truck and try the shim trick then, but I havent had a chance to do it yet. An instructor at the college told me about it, he called it his dollar 98 posi lol. He said as far as burnouts go, it would be a two wheeler. I told him I was getting tired of one wheel peel lol

#14 Salatino OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2012 - 11:35 PM

Johnboggs....LOL yeah I know what ya mean about them 1 wheel wonder burnouts! I was 18 when I got my first "cool" truck . traded a astro van for a 72 chevy 1/2ton "cheyenne" It was in pretty good shape,not rusted out,needed cab corners ,floor pans you know the usual with them old trucks. But all the bad spots werent eally that bad when it came down to it. it had a 350 from a older camaro,along with a 350 trans,headers,mild cam,good ole glasspacks,put a b&m ratchet shifter. Since I was youger and had what I thought was a hotrod truck lol really beat on that poor thing. always got pulled over in it. it ran very good. I was always workin on it since it seems like every other awsome burnout I did I broke somthing. My dad use to get so pi$$$$ed offfff at me, he wanted to sell it. But he knew that was my truck and Ihe couldnt do that to me. Them 2 peice driveshafts and carrier bearings kinda sucked. probably put new bearings on it every 2 months along with u joints.lets see what else,2 transmissions, had to replace the heads,got a set og camelhump heads of a buddy of mine. lol since it was kinda a peiced together truck when I busted the yoke off the driveshaft I had to have one cut down and rebalanced since no other d.s would fit. I looked everywhere. Tore the rearend up a few miles away from home,I did some tree work at this junkyard that only deals in classic mainly gm trucks in trade of some parts. Got a manual trans and rearend from a 69 chevy truck.It had real nice wheels & tires on it also. Only 6 lug not 5 . You know after I got it in and everything back togIether,except the trans,didnt have the extra money or time for that ,but it ended up bein a posi. I could not beleive it. t was def. geared lower I guess cause it came from a manual trans truck but man that thing would would smoke both them tires 4 as long as you wanted once you got it goin. it was awsome. lol I miss that old truck. if I had it today I probably wouldnt afford to drive it,nice 4-barrel carb. I really thought I was somthing in it after I got that rearend in it , especially havin that b&m shifter in it, you know even put the big sunpro tach on the steering colum,bucket seats. lol, couldnt hear the stereo very good, then as time went on,workin out of it and beatin on it, it if you laid a big nasty one the truck would fill up with smoke , you could drop a 3 litter bottle outta the cab and not touch the side of the holes they were gettin so bad. lol

#15 johnboggs21 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2012 - 06:45 PM

Lol that sounds like my old F250. I love that truck, but if ya didnt hold your feet up youd almost fall through the floor lol. But that truck will be resurrected with some new body parts with any luck lol




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