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The '71 Is Not Charging


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#1 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2012 - 02:49 PM

Since I got the tractor I would have to put it on the charger every so often. When I got it, I had to do it about once a month, no I am doing it every few days. Maybe the rectifier is bad? About a month ago I unhooked the battery and it stalled so it is running off of battery power. I charged it the other day, and since then I have moved it around the back yard a few times and today I did some work and now its almost dead. When the battery gets low the running quality is significantly less and the power is not there. With the battery draining so fast and power loss I can't do the heavy work that I would normally do. I need to fix the problem, I can't avoid it anymore. Do you think it is a bad rectifier? If not, what do you think the problem is?

#2 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2012 - 05:33 PM

Ryan, first check all the wiring connections including the connection from the engine chassis back to the battery - terminal. You should be able to measure an AC voltage coming from the charging coil by removing the plug to the regulator. it should be somewhere in the 20volt AC range. If you don't have any voltage then the coil could be open which you can check with an ohm meter. If you have the proper amount of AC then you probably are looking at a bad regulator, assuming that your battery is not shot. With these old engines there can be any number of crazy things happen as vibration, heat and age take their tole on parts.

#3 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2012 - 05:40 PM

Ryan, Do what Brian says, but also take 20 seconds and clean where the regulator bolts to ground. This will also cause a no charge.

#4 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2012 - 06:35 PM

Is there a difference between a rectifier and a regulator? I don't know what either one does exactly. The '71 has the one that has the fins.

I will check all the connections and voltages. When I got the tractor last August, it didn't run. I put a coil on it that was border line new, I don't think it would have gone bad that fast.

#5 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2012 - 12:47 AM

A rectifier is commonly know as a diode. Think one way valve. AC goes in, but only the positive is allowed thru. ( this is a simplified explanation, but we don't need to get too deep here)

A regulator, either the contact type or electronic type contols how long or how much DC is passing.

#6 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2012 - 02:27 PM

I went to check it but I don't know what the charging coil is? What plug are you talking about? I don't see any plugs, only wires.

#7 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2012 - 02:54 PM

Ryan, I'm not familiar with the PK tractors. Someone who is would be able to tell you what to look for. Generally the Voltage regulator looks like a black block with a 3 prong connector attached to it or 3 wires if they don't use connectors. If you have a wiring diagram for the tractor post it and we can have a look at the circuit.

#8 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2012 - 03:35 PM

That is what is throwing me off. I do not have a regulator on it. It has a rectifier, or a diode as Alan explained it. There is a wire diagram in the manual section. The one on the top left is the one I have on the '71.

http://gardentractor...-sn-5970-39492/

#9 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2012 - 08:01 PM

Some early PK's have just slip-on wires. Middle terminal goes to batt thru selonoid and two outer wires together make AC voltage and you can read between them while running. FIRST, just test with volt meter off batt lugs when running. Good batt should show a little over 12 volts when stuff is off. Once running should read 13.7 to 14.5 volts range. If it does, then it is charging. On the regulator box it has two long bolts holding it against back of dash. Pull those and clean off dash area, the area where bolts pass thru regulator and maybe replace those bolts. I like to use star washers under mine, between the regulator and the dash metal. They will BITE into the metal there and on reg body and make good contact. At least same on the heads or nuts of the bolts will be helpful. But rust builds between the items, so like mine there, right in the action! Ha!

#10 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2012 - 08:29 PM

I looked at the rectifier on the '75 and it had all the wires go to a plug that then went to the rectifier. The '71 just has separate wires that connect to the rectifier.

I will pull off those bolts and clean it all good. I didn't think of using star washers, thats actually a pretty good idea for getting good connection!

#11 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2012 - 10:14 AM

Both running and not running it was 12 volts on the battery.

While running on the rectifier it measured 16-17.

#12 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2012 - 02:18 PM

Does anybody have any insight for me?

#13 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2012 - 08:10 PM

Ryan was that 16-17 volts a/c?

#14 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2012 - 08:14 PM

Ryan was that 16-17 volts a/c?


I didn't think to look at it. I can test it again tomorrow and see.

#15 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2012 - 02:56 PM

It is AC current.




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