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New Member Of The Herd - 110 Square Fender


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#1 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2012 - 11:58 PM

Went yesterday and picked up the 110. Here are some pictures just after we got it out of the truck bed.
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Was happy cuz the price was right. Was even happier when I saw the rear tires! The Carlisle bar tires are almost new. They would be more (new) than I paid for the whole tractor!

One of the front tires wouldn't hold air. This seems to be my year for tires.......
Once I got it off the rim, I could see why! Wondering if this rim had been filled at some point in the past - lots of rust and pocking, but the bead area looks ok. I think once I clean the seating area, it will hold air fine. Will get them painted and put the original tires back on. They were in really good shape.
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Deck looks rough, has a couple welds and is missing top shield. And one of the spindles is in need of new bearings. But no rust holes so it should fix up ok.
IMG00496-20120617-1321.jpg

Finally, the previous owner said it would not start cold - had to use starter fluid to get it to fire, but that it would run ok once warm. Quick check showed the choke cable was missing a hold-down against the carb, so the choke butterfly wasn't moving. Fixed that and she fired up cold no problem.

Needs some paint and cosmetics, and there is a lot of play in the steering that I will need to take care of, but I think it was a good find!

So I can line it up next to the Ford and work on both of them at the same time!!!!! I need a bigger shop!!!!!

#2 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2012 - 04:54 AM

Nice 110. It looks to be in pretty good shape overall. It should make a good worker for you without too much trouble. Those rear tires are a great bonus!

#3 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2012 - 05:43 AM

Looks in good shape :thumbs: , will you need to do anything special to seal that front tire bead? I've heard of people using Pera-tex no-harding gasket sealers to silcone . Just wonder if you where going to try something , Al

#4 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2012 - 06:13 AM

Looks good! That wheel needs an e-tank bath. I bought a can of tire bead sealer like the shops use, does a pretty good job on leaking beads. Check the tire at the bead, all that rust may have distorted the bead enough to make it keep leaking. I'll get the brand of sealer later this morning!

#5 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2012 - 06:22 AM

Sounds like a great deal! Congratulations! I always like the good surprises.....like the simple fix to the choke!!
Going to show my ignorance here.....so ....if the bead was leaking.....do you try to fix/seal it.....or would a tube be the way to go?? And why would you choose one way over the other?? As you can see, I am still learning this game.

#6 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2012 - 06:44 AM

Sounds like a great deal! Congratulations! I always like the good surprises.....like the simple fix to the choke!!
Going to show my ignorance here.....so ....if the bead was leaking.....do you try to fix/seal it.....or would a tube be the way to go?? And why would you choose one way over the other?? As you can see, I am still learning this game.

I usually try to seal a bead leak. If that doesn't work, get a tube. But I have one set of wheels that would be hard to put a tube in due to how they are formed. I don't think the valve stem would stay in the hole.

#7 daytime dave OFFLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2012 - 07:01 AM

Congratulations. Looks pretty decent.

#8 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2012 - 08:58 AM

Tire had a slow leak - would bleed down in 3-4 hours. You could see (spray soapy water from a spray bottle and look for bubbles) air leaking around the rim/bead area.

My experience is that rust/grunge builds up in the seat area and creates channels for the air to leak out of. Or sometimes dirt/branches/???? will work down into the bead of a low pressure tire and cause it to partially unseat enough to let air leak. A lot of the time, wire brushing the rim to get all the crud out, and lightly steel wooling the tire bead area will fix things. Since I usually paint them anyway when the tire is off, you can paint, sand, paint a couple cycles to fill in low spots. Last ditch is to use bead sealer - I've used Permatex form-a-gasket (soft compound) a few times with good results.

As for the tire vs tube discussion, I usually try and go tubeless if the tire/rim is in good shape. But I am working on an Exmark walk behind that I can't get to seal, even though the tire looks new - it will have a tube going in it - I'm tired of messing with it!

Headed back out today to clean (it's a mess) and see what's under the grime. And gonna try and adjust as much play out of the steering as I can, then start a parts list to order from the dealer.

#9 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2012 - 09:18 AM

Looks to be a good find. All the problems sound like either little ones or fixable. Hope the deck doesn't fight you with the repair... Sometimes the implements can be harder to get right than the tractor.

#10 JakeKuhn OFFLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2012 - 01:21 PM

Thats a nice tractor! Jake

#11 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2012 - 01:33 PM

Looks good. Which engine is that one?

#12 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2012 - 02:10 PM

Its the 8hp k181.

#13 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2012 - 04:32 PM

Looks like a very solid JD! Congratulations! :thumbs:

Matt

#14 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2012 - 11:03 AM

Figured I would give an update and close this thread out....

The 110 is happily cutting grass in Florida now. Finished it (well almost..) a couple months ago, bought it south and have worked the bugs out of it.


IMG00710-20121014-1423.jpg

As background, there have been 3-4 other threads about this tractor on here as well - one on the steering rebuild, changing tires and tire changing equipment, front attachment brackets, etc.

But to recap...

The steering on this thing as it came home was sloppy - I ended up replacing bushings, tie rods, kingpin bolt and adjusted the steering box - when I got done, it steers well with very little play. The complete story (with pictures) is on here somewhere. By careful buying, $40.00 in parts and adjusting made a world of difference!

I had to pull the engine to replace the oil pan gasket (leaking). Bottom end looked good, not much sludge in the bottom of pan. Looks like the bottom has plenty of life left in it. The engine has some miles on it - shows a little blowby under full load, but still has plenty of power for what I need it to do. EVENTUALLY, I may re-ring it, or put a 10 hp diesel clone in instead...

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Pulled the seat pan and cleaned up the rust and repainted everything. Paintwork was done "utility grade" - It had been repainted (a few times...) before and had it's share of scratches and dings. Straightened all the metal out and dished the scratches, then light sand to provide adhesion. Had this been a "show" tractor, I would have stripped the paint down to the metal and started over for an even finish.

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The hood had some cracks and the rear latch had pulled a chunk out of it. Fiberglassed all the boo-boos and put a reinforcing plate in where the latch would sit. I just used a piece of luan plywood and glassed it onto the underside of the hood where the latch would mount. The wood makes a filler to create a fiberglass "box" that is much stronger than the glass or wood by itself.

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I ended up rebuilding the brake system because it was sticking. The cam and housing had some grooves worn in them and the pins were rusty, allowing the band to bind. A few minutes with a wire wheel and a die grinder had everything smooth and good to go. Also, the lining had come loose from the backing. Some high temp epoxy reattached it.
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The deck got rebuilt - new bearings in the spindles and fresh paint on the deck. Again, this is documented here on the board with pictures....

Finally, put new drive belts (variator and final drive - about $60 for 2 belts!!!!!!!!) on and cleaned, oiled and adjusted the variator. Adjusted the brakes, replaced all the fluids, put in a new air filter, and she runs/cuts like new!!!

I still need to switch out the back tires. The bars will go onto the Ford in Tennessee, and I am gonna get a set of turf tires to put on here since it will just cut grass and do chores on flat Florida land - the bars are overkill on my St Augustine grass!

I eventually want to build a johnny bucket style scoop to mount on the front of it for yard chores. Not sure if it will be electric or add a pump and make it hydraulic..., Am in the process of building a pin hitch for the back. Figure that will take care of anything I need it to do down here...

So when all is said and done, I have about $400.00 in this thing, total, (well, and a FEW hours shop time...)! And with regular maintenance, (and maybe new rings/valve job down the line), it will take care of my suburban Florida needs for many years to come! Much better than one of the new box store machines would!

Thanks to everyone along the way that answered questions and helped me out!!!

#15 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2012 - 11:44 AM

Looks very nice and a machine that will last. What year is this one? Gotta be 68-70 since it is has the k181.

Edited by Trav1s, November 03, 2012 - 11:44 AM.





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