Started working on closing in the firewall and decided that the fitting for the water temperature gauge is still going to be hard to reach so I have decided to move it.
The first thing to do is remove the gauge fitting an plug the hole.
Most engines have other places in the head where you can hook up a temperature gauge or a hose fitting.
This engine does not have any other places to do that.
I removed the heater outlet fitting on the front of the engine and took a look down inside.
There is enough room in the water cavity so I'm going to move the gauge fitting to the front.
Here I'm starting to drill out the hole.
Once the hole is drilled out to the correct size, I thread it with a 1/2 NPT tap.
The gauge fitting is installed and the heater hose line is hooked back up.
Now I can go back to work on the firewall.
I bolted a 1 inch wood spacer to the back of the block.
Then I started making the cardboard template for the firewall and fastened it to the wood with thumb tacks.
The side sections are fitted and held in place with tape.
I use a piece of wood to mark where the cut needs to be for clearance above the bell housing.
Once the template is finished, I trace it out on a piece of metal and cut it out.
The metal is then formed and tack welded in place on the firewall.
The front of the floor panel had to be trimmed back a little and then I fastened it back in place.
A template is made up for the bell housing cover.
This piece is going to be riveted on instead of welding it so it is cut out of a piece of galvanized steel.
The bell housing cover is fastened in place.
Both the floor panel and this bell housing cover were sealed with a bead of silicone sealant before they were fastened down.
The rest of the metal pieces are fit on the firewall and everything is welded in place.
Then all the seams are sealed with sealant.
I know it looks nasty but this will all be covered with a rubberized firewall insulation so you won't be able to see any of these seams.
The first thing to do is remove the gauge fitting an plug the hole.
Most engines have other places in the head where you can hook up a temperature gauge or a hose fitting.
This engine does not have any other places to do that.
I removed the heater outlet fitting on the front of the engine and took a look down inside.
There is enough room in the water cavity so I'm going to move the gauge fitting to the front.
Here I'm starting to drill out the hole.
Once the hole is drilled out to the correct size, I thread it with a 1/2 NPT tap.
The gauge fitting is installed and the heater hose line is hooked back up.
Now I can go back to work on the firewall.
I bolted a 1 inch wood spacer to the back of the block.
Then I started making the cardboard template for the firewall and fastened it to the wood with thumb tacks.
The side sections are fitted and held in place with tape.
I use a piece of wood to mark where the cut needs to be for clearance above the bell housing.
Once the template is finished, I trace it out on a piece of metal and cut it out.
The metal is then formed and tack welded in place on the firewall.
The front of the floor panel had to be trimmed back a little and then I fastened it back in place.
A template is made up for the bell housing cover.
This piece is going to be riveted on instead of welding it so it is cut out of a piece of galvanized steel.
The bell housing cover is fastened in place.
Both the floor panel and this bell housing cover were sealed with a bead of silicone sealant before they were fastened down.
The rest of the metal pieces are fit on the firewall and everything is welded in place.
Then all the seams are sealed with sealant.
I know it looks nasty but this will all be covered with a rubberized firewall insulation so you won't be able to see any of these seams.