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No Spark Issue Pt.2


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#1 dogsoldier OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2012 - 02:51 PM

ok so i put the new ignition module on and got it all set, turned key and all it does is crank, no spark at all.
i am stumped with this one. i need ideas on what to check next. im also thinking it may be a bad safety switch someplace, (oh how i hate those safety switches. ) they are the biggest pain in the butt. i know no one is allowed to say how to bypass the switches tho :laughingteeth:

#2 dogsoldier OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2012 - 07:49 PM

i put the old ignition module back on and it started right up.
so now i need to figure if the new one is bad or the ends are on wrong.
they should be making contact with the wire inside. maybe i take them off and see if i can see the wire.
anyone have any other thoughts?

#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2012 - 08:05 PM

What did you change to make the old module work again? It sounds like it was a bad connection somewhere and that exchanging the modules has cleaned up the bad connection and away you go.

#4 dogsoldier OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2012 - 08:15 PM

the old module would work before but the tractor would shut off like someone shut off the key then would have to sit for a day or two before it would start again.

#5 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2012 - 02:08 PM

I keep going back to your kill wire grounding out somehow. When it dies, is there ground at the kill wire? I know it could be a safety switch, but it coils still be your key switch. Grrrr.

If it were me, I'd fire it up until it quits, and disconnect the kill altogether. Then see if it regains spark.

#6 dogsoldier OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2012 - 03:22 PM

i tried that a while back and still had no spark. i did check all the wires today also for bad spots and found none.

this is what i posted earlier today in the ford section:

no more safety switches to worry about and it ran for almost a half hour till it just shut off. when i tried to restart it and pulled the chock out it tried to run. i checked the gas and have plenty in the tank. i think the next thing to replace would be fuel line and filter and maybe ignition switch although the ignition switch worked in the other tractor just fine. anyone have any other ideas?
at least it ran lots longer this time which im real happy about

Edited by dogsoldier, June 23, 2012 - 03:22 PM.


#7 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2012 - 04:13 PM

It sounds like you have some kind of intermittent electrical connection somewhere. It may be the ignition module breaking down as it heats up. Did you ever check that second module to see if the wires were making contact.

#8 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2012 - 04:26 PM

Could you have had the new module flipped to the wrong side? I know with Briggs, this is an easy thing to do, and will stop the spark.

#9 dogsoldier OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2012 - 04:54 PM

Brian, i covered the wires with tape and the shroud is off when its running. it ran longer today then it has since i have had it.

Dan, i put the new one on with the kill terminal on the top , ill try flippin it over and see what happens. it has to be either the ingition switch or the ignition module since the safety switches are no longer hooked up.

#10 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2012 - 06:16 PM

Going by the pic in the other thread, I'd say you mounted the coil right side up.

#11 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2012 - 06:25 PM

Can you run a hot wire from the Battery to the module directly, taking out everything else. I wonder if you might have a broken wire that is separating when it gets hot, the insulation may not be broken but the wire inside can still be..

#12 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2012 - 06:27 PM

It sounds like a heat related breakdown in the ignition module. Also check the connection from the engine chassis back to the battery - terminal with an ohm meter. . If you have a poor connection there it will cause problems.

#13 dogsoldier OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2012 - 06:39 PM

Dan- the ignition module only goes on one way
Brian- there is no place to hook a hot wire to. this is a electronic ignition
JDBrian- the only ground wire it has is for the battery. should i run a ground from the motor to the battery?

im starting to think heat related also but not sure where to even start.

Edited by dogsoldier, June 25, 2012 - 06:40 PM.


#14 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2012 - 09:31 PM

I think the engine should ground thru the chassis. If the starter is strong, your ground is probably OK. Still, not a bad double check tho.

Is it possible you're missing a magnet or something not right with gap? I'm starting to grasp at straws here, but you've covered the usual.

You might try burnishing the surfaces where the mag mounts. Both on the mag and on the engine?

#15 dogsoldier OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2012 - 05:52 AM

magnets all there and gap stays the same.
took a wire wheel in drill and cleaned all surfaces
im going to put a ground strap on the engine and see what happens.
as for grasping at straws, im to the point ill try anything.




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