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Issue Rebuilding Carb On A 1050


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#1 Enginerd OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2012 - 12:22 AM

Hello everyone. I finally got around to working on my 1050, and my first order of business was to rebuild the carb. I ran into a couple issues as you can see in the video, but the biggest one is that there is a gap between the upper and lower halves of the carb that the gasket can't seal. I'm not sure how it got like this, but it probably explains why it hardly had enough power to move it across a flat yard despite a rebuilt motor (so I'm told). Any suggestions as to what I can do to fix this? Is it as simple as RTV the heck out of it and cross my fingers?



#2 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2012 - 06:16 AM

Looks like you have a warped carb, which was very common on these carbs.
This is probably due to the previous owner over tightening the screws.
Some people can file them down but yours appears to be a pretty large gap. I would say its worth a try to seal it with some type of goop as its alot cheaper than buying a new carb.
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#3 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2012 - 06:30 AM

We used to have a piece of flat glass at my grandfather's garage that you would put a piece of sandpaper on . The part you wanted to " true up" (most of the time was a thermostat housing ) rub against the sandpaper in a " figure 8 " you would go slow and the high spots would be easily show up , it wouldn't take long to get a nice flat surface again . Without seeing your carb apart I'm not sure you could even do that to it , Al
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#4 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2012 - 06:47 AM

I have several Wisconsin S7D motors with zenith carbs....I ran into the same thing you did when I was rebuilding the carb.....big gap between the two halfs....with everyones help here I was able to adjust it enough that it no longer has that wide of a gap......proceed at your own risk though.....

I took the gasket, float, etc out.....hand screwed the halfs together......holding the carb in my hand....lightly tapped with a hammer around the carb in the areas that were high.....then used sandpaper to reduce some of the high spots as well......I figured I had nothing to lose since it was not working like it was.......doing both of these processes.....over and over I was able to get the carb back so that is was not leaking profusely......not perfect.....but it works.....good luck. (the key with holding it in your hand is there is a little give to the hit when you are tapping it)

As far as the plug.....there are smarter guys here but that looks like it is missing the mess screen looking piece found in most all these carbs......have you checked the bottom of the carb cleaner container??? This would not come in a rebuild kit....and I have never had one out before so will be interested to see what the guys that know say about this

Edited by sacsr, June 14, 2012 - 07:09 AM.

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#5 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2012 - 07:07 AM

That piece you have missing at the bottom is known as the intake drain disc and the Zenith part number was C135-29
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#6 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2012 - 08:44 AM

Looking at the video, your carb warpage does not look too severe.

I suggest you follow ALC's advice, and flatten the surfaces of the top & bottom of the carb. .....We used a flat piece of glass, as well, but if you don't have that, a flat kitchen counter will usually work.

As Al mentioned, you need to move the parts in a circular or figure-8 fashion. .....Straight-line back&forth motions will create "ruts." ....A medium grit sandpaper will remove metal quickly, but a coarse finish will hinder sealing. ....Finish with a fine grit paper.

Flattening of the carb mounting surface and the intake elbow surfaces can also be done using the same method.

Many RTV's & silicone sealants are attacked by gasoline, and are not recommended for sealing fuel or fuel vapor connections.

The incorrect gasket that you show, may be for the juction between carb & elbow ???
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#7 Enginerd OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2012 - 12:08 PM

Thanks for all the great advice. I leveled the head on my S7D many years ago using emery cloth on a table saw, and this morning I started thinking "I wonder if that could work for the carb too?" It's nice to see more than one person had the same suggestion. I no longer have the table saw, but I never thought of using glass. I have a big mirror tucked behind my toolbox in the garage which will work perfectly. Also, I'll put on some gloves and feel around in the bottom of the bucket-o-carb cleaner and see if I can find the intake drain disc. If not, I found somewhere I can order it from. Bruce, you were right about the gasket; it's the one that goes between the carb and the elbow. My kit came with two of those, but no gasket to go between the elbow and the engine block. It was probably just a mistake in packaging it. I think I have some gasket paper kicking around, so I'll just make it rather than wait for one in the mail. Thanks on the RTV advice too. I have aviation form-a-gasket which should work if I can't get it completely flat. I may use it anyway, just to be on the safe side.

Thanks again for everyones help.

#8 mark843 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2012 - 10:23 AM

I just ran into this issue with 3 carbs. On the 3rd one I followed the directions posted here:

http://www.lrfaq.org...zenith.fix.html

It's just the same as what Alc posted but it gave me more in depth instructions. Just don't get aggressive because if you take too much material off, you might have issues with the venturi fitting correctly. do a little at a time, clean and test fit the 2 halves.

It seems like it fixed the issue and the seals correctly. When you rebuild it, don't forget to measure and adjust the float if necessary.

#9 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2012 - 10:50 AM

Had the same problem with my 1050 TRA-10-D carb.I took a good sharp file to it.You may have to file down the venturi a bit to depending how much material you have to take to get it close.
I had to take alot of metal off of mine to get it close and then Instead of using a new thin Zenith gasket I had to cut a thicker gasket out.
I used cork gasket stock.It's a bit thicker and can easily be cut.

Mine spewed gas all over the place when running and it was running a bit Lean until I got the carb done.


I've seen a couple Wisconsins that people have put Kohler or Walboro carbs on.They seem to work very well if your not conserned about it not being 100% original.

Edited by EricFromPa, June 15, 2012 - 10:56 AM.


#10 Enginerd OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2012 - 11:17 PM

Update: It turns out it was the float bowl that was warped, not the body of the carb. It was REALLY off, almost like someone used the air cleaner housing as a step ladder and bent the whole casting. I started with some 100 grit, but it was taking forever. I switched to 40 grit, and that still took a long time, but I finally got the whole thing flat. I then went back to 100 grit and finished off with 220 to get it smooth. I also dug up a sheet of gasket paper and made the correct gasket for the carb/engine connection,so that's done.

The last part that has me a bit stumped is the intake drain disk. I ordered the part as per the doctors orders, but it's loose in the hole and just falls out. I thought this piece was supposed to be pressed in, but it's obviusly too small. Any suggestions on how to get it to stay in place? Avaiation form-a-gasket? JB weld?

#11 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2012 - 06:04 AM

Could this disk have been " steak" in with a few center punch marks around the mounting edge ?

#12 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2012 - 07:14 AM

Could this disk have been " steak" in with a few center punch marks around the mounting edge ?


It could be, I never had to take one of those out before so I cant say for sure.

#13 Enginerd OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2012 - 12:58 PM

Could this disk have been " steak" in with a few center punch marks around the mounting edge ?

It doesn't look that way. There are no marks around the edge. I'll try to take some video of it so you can see how loose it is. I think I'm going to hold it in place with some JB weld and see how that holds up over time.

#14 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2012 - 02:44 PM

I've seen a couple Wisconsins that people have put Kohler or Walboro carbs on.They seem to work very well if your not conserned about it not being 100% original.


I was actually just thinking about that... If there were any other carbs that would fit on these Wisconsin engines besides the old Zenith carb? I guess you (sort of) answered my question on that. Although IDK what carb models in particular would work on these engines. I'd guess anything with the same size mounting intake flange would work. These carbs do look very odd to me (looks like an old updraft carb they used to use on like really old car engines back in the 1920's or 1930's...) and I don't know much about them - if they are pretty reliable, if you can get better power with a different carb, etc...? Anyone have any experience with this?

#15 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2012 - 07:20 PM

A #26 Kohler carb should fit but your going to have to get creative with the governer linkage.

#26 carb is what they used on the 10 and 12hp Kohlers.

Edited by EricFromPa, June 27, 2012 - 07:21 PM.





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