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Tecumseh Hh120 Ac Voltage Output?


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#1 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2012 - 10:32 PM

What should the ac voltage output be?
SSI version, model 1200458, ser 819 08067

I'm getting 18.8 vac

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#2 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2012 - 04:52 AM

My manual says with engine running full speed and the regulator plug disconnected you should get no less than 20 VAC
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#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2012 - 08:09 AM

Will with the plug disconnected you are measuring the open circuit voltage from the coils. If you have bad(high resistance) connections they will not show up in this test as you are not drawing any current from the coils during the test. If the voltage falls due to voltage drop in a bad connection then you won't get a battery to charge properly even with full output voltage measurement with no load. It seems people consistently get slightly low readings on these tests. I'm wondering if it has something to do with the modern DVMs that people are using to measure. Some of these meters do not measure AC voltages accurately unless they are a pure sine wave shape. The reading may be different from the analog meter that would have been used in the 60's or 70's when the specs were created. Sorry to ramble on but it just seems like these voltages almost always measure lower then spec.
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#4 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2012 - 08:22 PM

So, I can safely assume, I should start hunting for a new coil?
Or maybe just a good cleaning behind the flywheel?
When I turn the lights on, voltage at the battery drops rapidly.

#5 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2012 - 08:36 PM

I'd tenatively assume your coil is good. I think someone suggested earlier that you may have a corroded connection that isn't passing current. Or to put it another way, the corrosion is resisting current flow, so when current flow goes up (turn on lights) the voltage falls. We had a fuse on our old MF155 do this, the rear light wouldn't light up. I would pull the plug to the light, "voila", 12 volts. Plug it back in, nothing. Finally found corrosion that was passing voltage to the voltmeter, but couldn't light a bulb.

If you can find a 24 volt bulb and rig a harness to your coil, it may help you decide whether the coil should be replaced. Or rig two 12 volt bulbs in series. If they light, that should show that the AC coil is ok and that the problem is elsewhere in the circuit.
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#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2012 - 04:55 AM

If the flywheel magnets are in good shape and the coil is all in one piece it should work. The things that are important are the magnetic strength, the no of turns of wire in the magnetic gap and their resistance as well as the width of the gap between the magnets and the coils. Cleaning up all the connections is something you should do. Your regulator could also be bad.
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#7 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2012 - 01:38 PM

Will does this have the old fashioned contractor type regulator?
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#8 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2012 - 07:13 PM

Will does this have the old fashioned contractor type regulator?


I'm not sure what you mean, by "contractor" type.
But, I'm curious.

It has a brand new aftermarket reg, since Oct.
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#9 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2012 - 09:02 PM

SSI motor should have the electronic regulator, silver finned box.
Starter/generator motors will have the contactor type regulator, black box.
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#10 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2012 - 10:01 PM

I'm not sure what you mean, by "contractor" type.


DARN YOU AUTO CORRECT!!!

I meant contactor type.
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#11 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2012 - 03:24 AM

DARN YOU AUTO CORRECT!!!

I meant contactor type.



Ah, I thought it was maybe some sort of colloquial expression.

This is on my MF12H, w/SSI ignition. It has the finned electronic regulator.

#12 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2012 - 11:07 AM

Will, pull the positive cable off the battery and check from regulator case to the negative pole on the battery for resistance. On those regulators, even a little resistance can cause it to not work right.
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#13 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2012 - 12:20 PM

As Alan said above these are very sensitive to resistance in the - battery return. On the 12's is there a grounding cable from the engine mounting plate to the chassis. On my MF8 the "ground" or negative return to the battery is made through a braided wire connection that goes from the rubber isolated engine mount to the chassis. It was partially severed on my 8. It's worth a check if that's how it's configured.
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#14 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2012 - 11:48 PM

Any Luck Yet?
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