Start Of A Long T70 Resto-mod
Posted August 12, 2012 - 10:41 PM
- BowDown said thank you
Posted August 13, 2012 - 08:22 AM
Edited by BowDown, August 13, 2012 - 08:22 AM.
Posted August 13, 2012 - 09:25 AM
HERE is a place you can buy reproduction decals for Power Kings, they have that decal for the gear patterns at much less you would probably spend having one made.
Posted August 13, 2012 - 09:50 AM
Thanks for the link!
Posted August 22, 2012 - 02:11 PM
Posted August 22, 2012 - 09:45 PM
Posted August 23, 2012 - 10:16 AM
Posted August 23, 2012 - 12:36 PM
Posted from my Samsung Galaxy S III 32gb via tapatalk 2.
Posted August 23, 2012 - 08:47 PM
Posted August 24, 2012 - 01:40 AM
Yeah, that's not the original from i-beam either, I don't think. Wonder what made all that worth doing.
I have absolutely no idea why they went through the trouble. Maybe he broke something-yeah right! This was the only photo he took. He thought I liked Panzers. What he didn't realize is I don't really like Panzers, I am obsessed. Kinda sad. Oh well. I'm going to go pick up another Penn 88 on Sunday if all works out!
Posted August 27, 2012 - 10:31 AM
My current design is going to involve:
-2006 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Belt Tensioner
-Tru-Torque wheel cylinder
-Motorcycle or ATV Front Grip Lever w/Master Cylinder
Should have about $80 in parts in the hydraulic tensioner setup. The lever will attach to the shifter arm on the tranny.
Other idea was to use a rear brake master cylinder and create a sort of heal/toe pedal on the left side. Heal to brake the rear left wheel, toe to disengage the tensioner for the tranny.
One question remains though.. .all the inexpensive wheel cylinders I could find are double-action. I would image if I just created a hard stop for one side of the wheel cylinder it would just push the other side out? Or do they both have to move?
Posted August 27, 2012 - 10:34 AM
Posted August 27, 2012 - 10:50 AM
I see that you're going to work with a serpentine belt tensioner... one that usually mounts on an engine block. I think this should work well with a hydraulic system that will have a very short range of motion. Another way to consider is to make a longer arm and a more traditional manual engage/disengage. My only concern with the hydraulic setup is how it's going to "feel" if you're counting on a belt tensioner to act as your clutch. Specifically, will the hydraulic setup make an extremely touchy clutch...
I'm not sure what you mean about double acting cylinder.
Posted August 27, 2012 - 10:56 AM
If you have worked on drum brakes you will know the part I'm talking about. It has a central cast body w/hydraulic fitting. then a piston on either end. When fluid is pushed into it the pistons push out, but do not retract without some sort of spring. I figured it I could do a hard stop on one of the pistons, and use the other one to push a lever bar that's attached to the tensioner idler mount then I could release enough tension to shift gears.