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Start Of A Long T70 Resto-mod


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#121 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2012 - 10:41 PM

Good deal. See that it seems a lot more at home there. I guess the setup will make more sense once I see where the transmission and drive go.
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#122 BowDown ONLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2012 - 08:22 AM

Tranny will be on along the right frame tube like the normal driveshaft. I will have it pressed right up to the front of the engine shroud. I may need to push it into the shroud a bit if there's a bit of clearance needed. The input shaft on the tranny will be extended and will pass to the front between the motor mounting plate and the bottom of the right cylinder head. It will be supported on the opposite end (engine side) by a bearing.

Edited by BowDown, August 13, 2012 - 08:22 AM.


#123 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2012 - 09:25 AM

It has been a while since I have seen your progress, and it looks like you have gotten a good amount of work done! Since the frames on these are just tubing, it would not be very hard to stretch it out a little to give you the room you need, then just stretch out the hood some. Since you are making a new drive line and reconfiguring the steering I think now would be a good time to do it!

HERE is a place you can buy reproduction decals for Power Kings, they have that decal for the gear patterns at much less you would probably spend having one made.

#124 BowDown ONLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2012 - 09:50 AM

This is true. Worst case I will look to stretch the frame. At this point I believe pushing the grill forward a bit will do the trick.

Thanks for the link!

#125 BowDown ONLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2012 - 02:11 PM

My side pull steering assembly came in. Got it for $40 shipped on eBay from a Craftsman DYT4000 tractor.

Posted Image

Posted Image

#126 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2012 - 09:45 PM

Great! Looks like you mount that underneath and it goes to one wheel, huh. That should work somehow.

#127 Clint OFFLINE  

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Posted August 23, 2012 - 10:16 AM

Here is a picture of a modified steering assembly a friend of mine sent me while at a show recently. I'm not sure if this is what your planning, but still fun to see what others have made work for them. Good luck with your project!

Panzer pic from Brian Baker.jpg

#128 BowDown ONLINE  

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Posted August 23, 2012 - 12:36 PM

Interesting. Wonder why they did so much reconstruction. Curious what the steering shaft connection looks like.



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#129 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted August 23, 2012 - 08:47 PM

Yeah, that's not the original from i-beam either, I don't think. Wonder what made all that worth doing.

#130 Clint OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2012 - 01:40 AM

Yeah, that's not the original from i-beam either, I don't think. Wonder what made all that worth doing.


I have absolutely no idea why they went through the trouble. Maybe he broke something-yeah right! This was the only photo he took. He thought I liked Panzers. What he didn't realize is I don't really like Panzers, I am obsessed. Kinda sad. Oh well. I'm going to go pick up another Penn 88 on Sunday if all works out!

#131 BowDown ONLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2012 - 10:31 AM

I have been thinking about the trans belt tensioner alot..

My current design is going to involve:
-2006 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Belt Tensioner
-Tru-Torque wheel cylinder
-Motorcycle or ATV Front Grip Lever w/Master Cylinder

Should have about $80 in parts in the hydraulic tensioner setup. The lever will attach to the shifter arm on the tranny.

Other idea was to use a rear brake master cylinder and create a sort of heal/toe pedal on the left side. Heal to brake the rear left wheel, toe to disengage the tensioner for the tranny.

One question remains though.. .all the inexpensive wheel cylinders I could find are double-action. I would image if I just created a hard stop for one side of the wheel cylinder it would just push the other side out? Or do they both have to move?

#132 BowDown ONLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2012 - 10:34 AM

Tensioner picture Posted Image

#133 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2012 - 10:50 AM

I'm not sure what to think of the hydraulic belt tensioner setup. Just dont' have experience with one.
I see that you're going to work with a serpentine belt tensioner... one that usually mounts on an engine block. I think this should work well with a hydraulic system that will have a very short range of motion. Another way to consider is to make a longer arm and a more traditional manual engage/disengage. My only concern with the hydraulic setup is how it's going to "feel" if you're counting on a belt tensioner to act as your clutch. Specifically, will the hydraulic setup make an extremely touchy clutch...

I'm not sure what you mean about double acting cylinder.

#134 BowDown ONLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2012 - 10:56 AM

Ya, I'm not sure on feedback either.. but really it's not that big of a deal really.. It's not like I'm shifting a car or a bike where there are many gear changes. I figured the tensioner has a short throw, and a typically car drum brake wheel cylinder has a short throw.

If you have worked on drum brakes you will know the part I'm talking about. It has a central cast body w/hydraulic fitting. then a piston on either end. When fluid is pushed into it the pistons push out, but do not retract without some sort of spring. I figured it I could do a hard stop on one of the pistons, and use the other one to push a lever bar that's attached to the tensioner idler mount then I could release enough tension to shift gears.

Posted Image

#135 BowDown ONLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2012 - 11:06 AM

I guess something like this would be a bit more expensive than an auto wheel cylinder but require less fab work:

https://www.surplusc...9-6475&catname=




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