Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

K181 With No Spark, No Power To Coil...help

john deere 110h no spark

  • Please log in to reply
10 replies to this topic

#1 drhntrrmw OFFLINE  

drhntrrmw

    New Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 6828
  • 3 Thanks
  • 15 posts
  • Location: Barre, VT

Posted June 11, 2012 - 05:28 PM

Well, I'm trying to get the 110H running. It has no spark and no power to the coil.
Seems like I have the problem surrounded but I'm unsure where to go from here.

I've seen a few wiring diagrams and it appears that the coil wire goes back to the switch and should get power when the ignition switch is turned on.
I know I have power at the switch because the battery light comes on and the motor turns over when the key is advanced to the ignition position.

Please help!!

Rob

#2 timtractor OFFLINE  

timtractor

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 4824
  • 224 Thanks
  • 376 posts
  • Location: Lake Preston, South Dakota

Posted June 11, 2012 - 06:50 PM

The first easy test is to take a jumper wire and go from the key switch terminal to the coil. If the motor has spark then you only have to run a new ignition wire to the coil.

#3 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,271 Thanks
  • 28,609 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted June 11, 2012 - 06:58 PM

If still no power, try running a dedicated hot line from the battery + to the + on the coil. Remember, you'll have to pull this to shut it down.

If I were a betting man, I'd say one of the contacts in your switch has gone. Possibly the one that supplies power to the coil in the start position?

It could be as simple as corrosion around the rivet on the switch. Some can be fixed with a steady hand and decent soldering skills.

Let us know where you do have power. Check from battery - to each pole on the switch with a test light. Just keep in mind it could start working at any time without notice. Keep your hoodie strings out of trouble, just in case it starts.

#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted June 11, 2012 - 07:26 PM

I posted a thread a while back on repairing those ignition switches. It's a bit fussy but doable. Heres a link to that topic.
http://gardentractor...mf8#entry153458

#5 Trav1s ONLINE  

Trav1s

    Got points?

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5472
  • 2,602 Thanks
  • 3,750 posts
  • Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

Posted June 11, 2012 - 09:28 PM

I would also say the switch first but I also had problems with the solenoid located under the battery tray. I have an extra switch (original to my 1966 110) that I am not using. It is yours for the cost if shipping.

#6 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

johndeereelfman

    Elfin Majic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 3761
  • 5,480 Thanks
  • 2,535 posts
  • Location: Lititz, PA

Posted June 12, 2012 - 07:05 AM

Switch the two wires on the celenoid. Believe it or not, there is an input and output on a celenoid, and it sounds like you have the wires on backwards. I found this out last year. I had all my tractors wired as per the wiring diagram in the service manual, but didn't take note, that I had the celenoid mounted upside down, which caused the wiring to be wrong. Try switching the wires onto oposite sides, and see if this helps getting you spark.

#7 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

HDWildBill

    Freedom is not Free. Thank those in uniform for your freedom.

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 6354
  • 8,702 Thanks
  • 8,557 posts
  • Location: Ga

Posted June 12, 2012 - 10:40 AM

If you have a multimeter disconnect the battery and disconnect the ignition wire to the switch. Then put the switch into the on position and then see if you have continuity between the hot wire and the ignition terminal. If you don't the switch is your problem ( like Alan said is the most likely culprit ) If you do have Continuity then read continuity between the two ends of the ignition wire.

Let us know what you find.

#8 drhntrrmw OFFLINE  

drhntrrmw

    New Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 6828
  • 3 Thanks
  • 15 posts
  • Location: Barre, VT

Posted June 12, 2012 - 11:26 AM

Thanks all, great inforamtion from all!!

I now have power to the coil. I had poor contact at the switch terminals and needed to clean them up.

Unfortunately, I still do not have any spark!

#9 Trav1s ONLINE  

Trav1s

    Got points?

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5472
  • 2,602 Thanks
  • 3,750 posts
  • Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

Posted June 12, 2012 - 01:50 PM

Ok... if you have power to coil but no spark that tells me I could be coil, condenser, or points. If you have not already done this, I would begin with setting the points at factory spec then replace condenser. If that does not help then I would try a different coil for a small engine.

#10 drhntrrmw OFFLINE  

drhntrrmw

    New Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 6828
  • 3 Thanks
  • 15 posts
  • Location: Barre, VT

Posted June 12, 2012 - 02:25 PM

I have already put a coil on that came off from a running tractor so it must be the condensor or points.

#11 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted June 12, 2012 - 05:35 PM

Also make sure you have a good connection form the engine chassis back to the battery - terminal. Without that it won't work.




Top