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I Finally Have One, T75!


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#31 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2012 - 10:49 PM

These pictures rock. Thanks man. Gives me a great idea how the lift arm controls the deck lift.


I am glad the pictures helped you but now I see grease and grime under the tractor that I
need to clean. I had tractor on jack stands to work on the brakes and realized I could
get the pictures you asked for. I had to make a puller to get the drums off. The threads on the
axles were banged up so I had to run a thread chaser to clean them up.

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Edited by fxrs55, June 30, 2012 - 10:52 PM.


#32 BowDown ONLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2012 - 11:22 AM

That's a pretty cool tool there. I would imagine the chains on the lift portion are to add some forgiveness if the deck hits the ground?

Sent from my cell.

#33 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2012 - 02:03 PM

Yeah, I think you got it right on with the chains. They control the height, but if the mower hits on the rollers and gets bumped up, the chains will allow it to rise.

#34 BowDown ONLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2012 - 07:31 PM

Please post up the parts you had to purchase to rebuild the brakes. I understand there was a couple different models of rear-end used... but maybe I can get lucky.

#35 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2012 - 10:15 PM

Please post up the parts you had to purchase to rebuild the brakes. I understand there was a couple different models of rear-end used... but maybe I can get lucky.

I'm sure he'll chime in, but the parts inside the brake drum should all be in good shape or able to be cleaned up with the exception of the brake shoes themselves. From previous conversations on this site, seems the way to go is to ship them to Dandy Sales so he can match them and send you set of re-lines. I haven't done it yet, though I've had the brakes apart and back together. It's on the list for this winter.

#36 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2012 - 09:59 PM

I had time to work on the brakes today. The shoes are in good shape and should last
some time. Both of the adjusters were froozen solid. I soaked them in wd40 and was
able to get the left adjuster to turn and was able to clean it up and added some
never seize. The right adjuster would not budge. I heated it with the torch to no
avail. It finally snaped at the weld so I put the threaded part in the vise and heated
it some more and got after it with the big air gun and it finally came loose. I got a
new 1/2-20 hex head bolt and cut the head of and welded it to other part of the adjuster.
I hope I don't sound like an idiot but this tractor is so cool. The way it was made
is ingenious. It looks so simple but it takes a lot of though to make things simple.
It looks like they took the existing brake back plate from the plymouth rear and
rotated it 90 degrees, removed one brake shoe and the wheel cylinder, welded
a sleeve/bushing to back plate to accommodate the lever from the foot pedal and
now simple brakes without the hydraulics from a master cylinder and wheel cylinder.

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Edited by fxrs55, July 04, 2012 - 12:41 AM.


#37 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2012 - 10:35 PM

Yeah, I think that sums it up for how the the brakes work. That's some great ingenuity.

#38 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2012 - 10:36 PM

does anyone know how close in color the Mopar Performance Engine Paint
Turquoise is to the panzer turquoise?

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Edited by fxrs55, July 05, 2012 - 10:43 PM.


#39 Canawler OFFLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2012 - 09:17 PM

does anyone know how close in color the Mopar Performance Engine Paint
Turquoise is to the panzer turquoise?


That pic looks more like the light blue they used. There was also a turquoise a few shades different and a few years earlier.
And I've been wondering the same thing recently.

#40 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 11, 2012 - 05:43 AM

A few dealers have some in stock but none near me. I can order it
through a dealer near me but its a 6 can minimum at $10.45 per.
Don't want to get 6 cans if its not close to a match. I guess I'll
have buy a new spray gun and air dryer for my compresser.

#41 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2012 - 10:04 PM

Well on my way back from PA today I found a dealer In Bever Springs who had
a few cans of the mopar turquoise and I bought them. After I got back to NJ around 7:00 pm
I sprayed the back plate for the brakes and there is no match with the mopar
turquoise, not even close. Time to buy a spray gun.

Edited by fxrs55, August 24, 2012 - 05:38 PM.


#42 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2012 - 11:18 PM

You know, I looked back at some of your old posts and not too sure that your tractor has the original color. So may not be comparing apples to apples. You're going to be more happy with the spray gun paint, anyway. Paint with a hardener is so much more tough than any spray can. I'll vouch for liking the sherwin williams version of the panzer paint. I knew there was some guys painting in Dupont, too. Though I haven't seen the 2 side by side to compare.

#43 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2012 - 08:53 AM

cookiemonster, You are correct about my tractor, It has been sprayed a lighter color.
If you look at this picture above the p on the tag you can see a darker shade that might
be the original color.

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Edited by fxrs55, July 15, 2012 - 08:55 AM.


#44 BowDown ONLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2012 - 10:05 AM

I may have a motor plate from my t70 next weekend. I do not plan to use it in my build.



Posted from my Samsung Galaxy III S via tapatalk 2.

#45 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2012 - 10:18 PM

Started to disassemble the mower deck. The bearings in the mandrels are tired.
The spacers between the bearings are to short so when the the mandrels are
assembled and everything is tight the bearings have to much side load
and run tight. That may be why they are shot. One of the bearings was wraped
with shim stock and pressed in to the housing. I though the bore may have been
oversize from ware or from a bearing seezed up and spinning the outer race
in the bore. But someone used a bearing that was to small in the outer diameter
and used the shim stock to make it fit tight.

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