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Ignition Hasn't Had It, Need Parts? Updated!


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#1 Finch OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2012 - 09:46 PM

So after testing I've come to the conclusion that my ignition has failed on my MF-12. I'm getting such a weak spark that it's almost hard to see, so no wonder my tractor was a little hard starting. What is the cost of replacement and where would I begin to look for one? I'm guessing that Ed Stollers replacement ignition works on the HH-120 well, so I'm thinking it might be the best choice for my tractor. What is the cost to order the complete kit? While I'm at it I suppose it doesn't hurt to ask if anyone knows where I can get the O-rings/gaskets for the carb? I've started to leak gas from the bowl because the little baby rubber gasket has bit the dust!

Thanks as usual guys!

Edited by Finch, June 11, 2012 - 09:09 PM.


#2 chris m ONLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2012 - 10:22 PM

Did you take the solid state unit off and clean it? or did you remove the flywheel yet?

I'm asking because when I bought my MF12 with the HH120 in it. It had a weak to no spark issue. I cleaned everything and set it all to factory spec.

I also found the metal post sticking out the bottom of the solid state unit had metal shavings wedged down around it. This post is surrounded by a plastic insulator. The shavings were causing it to ground the post.

I checked for spark after it was together again, It was big and blue.

That was the only thing I found wrong, When I put it together and tested it. It fired right off

The carb kits I either get at a local small engine shop or Ebay. They are pretty cheap (not a lot of parts to rebuild these)

If you do need a new ignition, The conversion is the way to go, I am not sure of the cost, but a solid state unit for an HH100/120 is no longer made and the used ones usually sell for around $200-250 dollars.And there is no guarantee how long it will last.
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#3 Finch OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2012 - 10:29 PM

Right on! I emailed the guy who makes up the kits, but I haven't removed the flywheel, do I need a puller for the job? I noticed that there wasn't a whole lot to the carb when I removed it for cleaning. I will stop by the local small engine guy this week and see what he has for rubber gaskets.

#4 chris m ONLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2012 - 10:35 PM

I normally use a puller, on this one it was already loose from the PO.

Good luck with it!!! These are Awesome GT's

#5 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2012 - 02:34 AM

I've always used the brass hammer method, although a puller does a good job too.

Run the nut out flush with the end of the threads, put equal pressure on the pulley using two pry bars behind (somewhere safe) and a second person gives it a shock with a brass hammer on the end of the crank. Not an "I love you" tap, but a pretty good hit.

Just a bunch faster, if you have a second set of hands.

#6 Finch OFFLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2012 - 08:35 PM

I removed the SSI tonight and it was almost totally covered over in junk. After the cleaning i got a much better looking spark, but i didn't have a feeler gauge handy so I most certainly didn't gap it properly. I still tried to get it to fire up but to no avail. I have put the battery on for a good charge for the night and I'll try to pickup the proper J8 plug as well as a set of feelers and go from there. After obtaining a spark what is the next problem to eliminate?

#7 chris m ONLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2012 - 09:25 PM

ok 1st, the gap for the SSI unit on those 2 pins in critical. after you set that if it won't start I would move on to the fuel system.

If you are getting gas to the carb and it still won't start, then you might want to take the carb off and give it a good cleaning.




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