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Kohler Engine Problem


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#16 Buck OFFLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2012 - 08:52 PM

Keith, It was not popping. It would start doing it, I choke it and it will come back to life. If it dies, it was just like shutting the key off. It did have a fuse problem when I first got it with one of the holders and how I found it to this day I will never know but it did act the same, but the choke never saved it. I will definitely try the sides off.

#17 Buck OFFLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2012 - 08:57 PM

One of my things wv is how do you know its running hot? Mine could be but I really dont know what to look for. Plus I let it cool for 15 20 mins and it still does it right out of the gate. It will have to sit for an hour or so for me to get another 30 or so mins. It seems to run good otherwise.

#18 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2012 - 06:13 AM

That sire sounds like a bad fuel pump now to me also.
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#19 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2012 - 06:32 AM

Sounds like an interesting symptom as the Case 444 is acting similar, except for it is actually running hot, thinking too hot. Dont just about everything to it, cept fuel pump and or swap gas cap. Cept it is got blowby issue for some odd reason... i dont get it. good luck with your Kohler.


If you've got blow by Casey pull the head and check for carbon buildup. On my 314 - K321 the carbon was interfering with the piston at the top of it's travel and causing the rings to unseat, letting pressure into the crankcase. I was dripping oil out the breather at 1 drip every few seconds. After cleaning up the carbon and putting on a new HG the issue is gone. I think that much carbon raises the compression ratio and can cause pre ignition problems as well so it isn't going to run very well.
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#20 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2012 - 07:04 AM

Casey, blowby is just bad , it means bad things are happening, and most engines with a lot of blowby will run hot because the fire is goung past the piston and not out the exaust port like it should.

#21 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2012 - 09:11 PM

We (the friend I sold it to and I) pulled the head because it blew out the plug!! So a call to Bob and a new head later that was repaired. The old head with cracks is in the scrap bin and the carbon was cleaned. After I get back from the FCVAEC show I will run over there before my afternoon golf outing and screw with it myself. I have some more ideas as to what might be going on. I actually want to use it myself so that I can understand what the heck it's really doing. I am leaning towards the main fuel jet being too far out... because I just adjusted one that was running as hot and it started running cooler. I dunno, going to have to look it over carefully.

#22 Buck OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2012 - 09:31 AM

Hi, well I changed the fuel pump, and threw in a new plug. It now runs great. My guess it was the pump because I installed the old one on my other 1650 and it wont start. I started to mow my field and it was getting loud. Back in my shop to remove muffler and found the flange on the muffler that hooks onto the engine was broke. Took the muffler off my 1650 and installed it. Ran great for an hour when I broke my deck belt. At that time I noticed it getting loud again and back to the shop we go. Took hardware off to get to the muffler and it was fine. It started hard, sounded like an air compressor but started. How I found a bad head gasket I do not know. Maybe it was the fact when I stuck my hand in front of the bad area and felt a breeze and it spit oil into my palm might have given it away. Took the head off and sure enough about a 1/4" chunk missing out of the gasket! I will pick up a gasket and that tourque wrench I always wanted(lol) on Monday and put it all back together. I have a family friend that owns a machine shop look at the head for me to make sure it is still true. Figue I will check the tire pressure since thats about all I have not done to it (lol)! Anybody got any advice on putting it back together as I never have done a head gasket before. Man I just want to go mowing again!

#23 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2012 - 10:16 AM

Clean the surfaces real good, find a flat area (usually a piece of glass or counter top) Lay a piece of fine grit sandpaper (320 grit) on there and work the head in a circular motion. You'll see real soon if it isn't true. Keep working it until you are doing all contact points. Torque the head, start it up, and let it get good and warm. Let it cool and retorque.
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#24 noclue OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2012 - 12:20 PM

get rid of the 87 octane, that means ethanol i only run premium no ethanol gas and i believe my mowers run much better.

#25 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2012 - 12:27 PM

The head bolt tightening pattern is in the Kohler K series service manual which you can download from the Kohler site. It gives you a pretty good description of how to do the HG properly. I did one for the first time last summer on a K321. You need to make sure the head and the top of the block are flat and clean. The block can get deposits of hard carbon bonded to it if the gasket has been leaking for a while. That needs to be removed to assure you'll get a good seal. Take your time and if you have questions ask here. I found lots of help here when I did mine last year.

#26 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2012 - 01:01 PM

Here's a link to the Service manual:
http://gardentractortalk.com/forums/files/file/1753-k91-to-k341-service-manual/
Section twelve has the tightening sequence.

#27 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2012 - 07:35 PM

If you run high compression then run high octane, otherwise you may notice less power. The engine has fixed timing and cant make up for the lack of boom, needed. The ethanol doesn't hurt anything if used frequently, its the sitting that gets to it, as it likes to absorb water.
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