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Refurb Of A Cub Cadet 169


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#1 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2012 - 02:09 AM

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The owner brought the tractor on Thursday and I got it up on the workbench this morning. He and a friend rebuilt the engine over a two year period and it seems to run OK once it gets started but it acts like the compression release is not working properly and it will not turn over all the way until the key is bumped a couple of times. The engine is still the best thing about the tractor. It marks it's territory when it is left sitting, the pivot pin for the front axle is pulled out of the rear hole, both steering tie rod ends are stripped out and the tires pointed hard middle off the trailer. Moved around OK when I put a floor jack under the front axle to steer it.

I will just be doing the wrenching on it for him. He wants everything to work as it should and says his grandson will paint it for him.

I am starting with getting the front ax;e remounted and looking for a good way to repair the front axle front mounting plate. The welded in bushing has broken loose about 270* of the way around it and the plate is badly bent. I am considering removing the bushing that is almost torn out, cutting out a piece if 1/4 or 3/8" steel plate to fit over the existing front axle mounting plate, drilling a 3/4" hole in the plate and welding it to the bent up portion in there now and the frame BUT I don't want it to look butchered. The pin that was there looks like some one cut the threads off a bolt and drilled a hole for the cotter pin. I would also be using a 3/4" bolt with both the head and thread cut off but would turn the bolt to leave an area for the pin to retain grease.

The tie rod itself looks fine and I have a couple of ball joints, since they are both right hand threaded. The gearbox is definitely going to need to be tightened up.

Thanks,
Bill
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Tinkerer (One who enjoys experimenting with and repairing machine parts)

Edited by GTTinkerer, June 10, 2012 - 02:35 AM.


#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2012 - 03:30 AM

Not seeing your pic, Bill! I'll see if I can look under my 108 later, as it has the same frame. Maybe I can get an idea of what you are trying to do there.

#3 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2012 - 04:42 AM

I used a 3/4 bolt to pull the saddle back on mine but you have to pull the motor out first.

#4 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2012 - 05:41 AM

I used a 3/4 bolt to pull the saddle back on mine but you have to pull the motor out first.


Did you leave the bolt in or take it out and use the OEM pin? It looks like there is enough room for both the head of the bolt at the back end and a lock nut at the front. On this one the engine is going to have to come out to reweld the front bushing if I go that route. I assume that if I use a bolt I will need to find the right shank length and cut off most of the threads to insure the axle itself is not pivoting on the threaded part of the bolt also may have to drill the bolt to install a cotter or roll pin to keep the bolt from spinning and wearing out the bushing on each end.

#5 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2012 - 06:32 AM

No there's not enough room for the bolt, it will hit the oil pan in the back and will interfere with the PTO in the front. I used the original pin in mine, and used a new roll pin to fasten it. Mine was held in with a 16D nail.

#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2012 - 07:05 AM

Bill, if that bushing is worn out you might need to replace it as well. No point in doing all that reenforcement and then having the worn bushing cause slack in the front axle. It sounds like this tractor had a hard life. Maybe it was in a collision to cause that damage.

#7 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2012 - 08:06 AM

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Here is how I pulled mine back together.
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#8 Wheel Horse Kid OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2012 - 08:45 AM

Sounds like a very interesting project! Good luck with it!

#9 GTTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2012 - 07:47 PM

No there's not enough room for the bolt, it will hit the oil pan in the back and will interfere with the PTO in the front. I used the original pin in mine, and used a new roll pin to fasten it. Mine was held in with a 16D nail.


This one had a 1/8" cotter pin in it. That end didn't come loose though since the head of the bolt would no let it pull in.

Bill

#10 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2012 - 08:34 PM

It's suppose to have one of the roll pins like Cub used on everything. I used a regular roll pin in mine, the pin in mine was still loose, but at the axle doesn't move back and forth in the frame. It's kind of trial and err on the fit, I tightened the bolt i used on mine a couple of times before it was tight. I finally had to jump the axle back in, the steers much better now.




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