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Bolens Green Brier Restoration Thread


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#61 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 11:08 AM

Wow, that's quite the looker you got there!!! :thumbs: Excellent work! Can't wait to see it in action! Are you going to bring it to any shows or anything? Or can we see you mowing your lawn with it occasionally? :D How big of a deck does that thing have anyawys? It looks about the size of a decent push mower with a seat on it... Like 24-28" or so with a single blade? The perfect 1950's suburban riding mower!
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#62 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 11:11 AM

I plan on bringing it to the annual Erie County Fair along with the other Restored tractors.
I have not tried to engage the blades yet.... I dont want to get her too dirty :D

Its a single blade 26'' cut
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#63 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 11:22 AM

Hmmm... I would have thought on this design that the blade spun whenever the engine was running, like on a push mower. I figured it just used a belt drive off of the engine/blade shaft to power the drive wheels, much like a self-propelled push mower. Learn something new every day! They really thought of everything I guess...

So, I'm curious what the big foot pedal is on the left side. Does it have some kind of a hydrostatic drive? :smilewink: I see the close-up of the shift lever there that says "Forward-Neutral-Reverse". I take it that it just has one speed? There are a lot of other levers and handles and things to push or pull or depress on it... just trying to figure it all out from the photos...

#64 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 11:31 AM

The Blade clutch is a pretty neat setup that is under constant spring tension. Pulling the lever forward moves the idler onto the belt and tightens it. When the lever is brought back the idler moves away and a small stopper rod comes in contact with the back side of the belt which keeps the blade from accidentally engaging (Talk about advanced safety for 1960!)

The clutch petal controls how fast you are going. (Top speed of around 3mph) The farther you press down on the petal the faster it will go. Take your foot off the petal and the spring loaded petal automatically comes back and stops the mower. The seceret is the variable drive which was also used on a few other Bolens applications (Ride-a-matics, walk behinds, ect) The drive sheave opens and closes up depending on how far you push the petal down. the belt slides deeper into the groove thus giving you more speed.

The mower also has an automatic gear differential so when you make tight turns you dont tear up the lawn!
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#65 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 11:40 AM

:o WOW! Doc that's a thing of beauty. Well done, Quality workmanship shines. You set the bar high...again. THANKYOU :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:
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#66 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 11:41 AM

Wow, all pretty neat stuff for 1960! Talk about advanced for its age! So, sounds like it basically used an early version of a snowmobile clutch where the pulley on the engine moves in or out to make you go faster or slower so you don't have any gears to change. Except that instead of being a spring-loaded centrifugal clutch off the engine that engages as your RPMs go up, it is pedal driven and has no bearing on how fast the engine is going. It's magic-drive!!!
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#67 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 11:43 AM

Wow, all pretty neat stuff for 1960! Talk about advanced for its age! So, sounds like it basically used an early version of a snowmobile clutch where the pulley on the engine moves in or out to make you go faster or slower so you don't have any gears to change. Except that instead of being a spring-loaded centrifugal clutch off the engine that engages as your RPMs go up, it is pedal driven and has no bearing on how fast the engine is going. It's magic-drive!!!


Yeah that's basically the idea of it.

#68 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 02:36 PM

Nice job, Brian!

Do you have a knob for the F-N-R lever?

Let's see the other 10% now! :laughingteeth:

#69 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 03:08 PM

Nice job, Brian!

Do you have a knob for the F-N-R lever?

Let's see the other 10% now! :laughingteeth:


I got 2 new Knobs that will go on the Shift lever and the height adjustment lever. I still need to find a NOS brake petal.


These are the things I still need to do:

-Put knobs on
-fabricate a discharge chute
-Find the missing parts for the Recoil starter thats supposed to be on there
-Find a NOS brake petal

#70 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 04:15 PM

There was a discharge chute on these things as well? Wow... swanky. I thought it just used the wide-open cut-out on the one side of the body/deck to throw the grass clippings out of. I'm gussing it is supposed to have a brake pedal on the right side as well, besides the "Go" pedal on the left? Was this missing when you bought it?

I probably don't want to think about how much money you have invested in this thing so far... I'm sure it's not worth all of that completed, unfortunately. I've never seen one restored for sale though; any idea what you think it may be worth when you're done?
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#71 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 04:30 PM

There was a discharge chute on these things as well? Wow... swanky. I thought it just used the wide-open cut-out on the one side of the body/deck to throw the grass clippings out of. I'm gussing it is supposed to have a brake pedal on the right side as well, besides the "Go" pedal on the left? Was this missing when you bought it?

I probably don't want to think about how much money you have invested in this thing so far... I'm sure it's not worth all of that completed, unfortunately. I've never seen one restored for sale though; any idea what you think it may be worth when you're done?


Yeah, the rod you see sticking out near the fender is the brake petal. There is a plate underneath that makes contact with the tire, so instead of having to replace brake pads you have to replace the tire :rofl2:

I have the original rubber petal but it is in 2 pieces and is very brittle.

The chute had 4 holes you could put a bolt through to adjust where you wanted the grass directed. You could also close the chute and the grass would go out the rear of the mower.

usually when I do a restoration I don't keep track of how much I put into them.
I just do it mainly for my own enjoyment and satisfaction that I brought a machine back to life as close to factory specs as possible.
I know I will never get anything close to what I put into these tractors but I don't really plan on selling them.
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#72 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 06:59 PM

So I went to start up the mower this evening and it didnt start!
It only will fire up if you spray some carb cleaner in it and have it on almost full choke and it dosent sound like it did a few days ago.
Playing with the idle adjusting screw and main jet dont appear to be helping :wallbanging:
I rebuilt the carb too.....
:mad2:

#73 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 07:37 PM

Wonderin what that one variable or minor difference could be from that day to now? did you leave a polishing cloth jammed in there somewhere?

#74 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 07:54 PM

Wonderin what that one variable or minor difference could be from that day to now? did you leave a polishing cloth jammed in there somewhere?


I did have to remove the carb yesterday to put on the breather valve I forgot to assemble so I'm wondering if there is an intake leak somewhere. Its sort of an awkward setup so it is possible one of the intake gaskets may not have seated right.
I'll check it out tomorrow

#75 fonz3482 ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2012 - 09:09 PM

Hope you get it straightened out! Can't wait to see your fleet at the fair next week!!! Im in need of some Inspiration, and seeing all those nice restored tractors just might do the trick for me! Good luck on getting it running right Brian!
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