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Tractor Battery Not Charging


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#1 Rick OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2012 - 07:08 AM

I have a 1969 140 h-1 and the other day I was mowing the lawn when I noticed it was not charging.The fuse in the regulator was blown so I replaced it,still nothing found a broken wire,fixed that NOTHING,then I got my sevice manual out and dusted it off and found the section on charging systems.I tested the regulator it had low amps coming out of it ,so I moved on to the stator,it only had 27.5volts coming out of it.The volts should be 28-32 from the stator.My problam is the tractor came wirh solid state ignition,I changed it over to points.The ssi uses a 10 amp stator and the points uses a 15 amp stator which none of them are available from the dealer anymore.I was told I cant use a 15 amp stator with my flywheel,I dont think that is true,I found a couple used ones for sale.I hope I can use a 15 amp one.Can someone let me know if I can or not I really appreciate it.

#2 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2012 - 07:30 AM

I have read that the solid state ignition systems are a real treat. I would work on getting the additional used parts needed and finish the conversion to prevent you from chasing your tail.

#3 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2012 - 07:35 AM

Not sure 100% but sounds like 27.5v A/C would be close enough , what are you getting right at the regulator output ? Al

#4 Rick OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2012 - 07:36 AM

I changed it over because the trigger unit beside the flywheel kept burning out to the tune of 75.00 a pop.I changed it 2 times and that was enough.I thought I might not have enough amps to run the points being I have 10 amps and they call for 15amps.

#5 Rick OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2012 - 07:41 AM

The regulator is only putting out 11.5 volts to the battery.We still use the tractor we just charge the battery every time it runs fine other than the problam of not charging.

#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2012 - 09:51 AM

It sounds like you have a bad regulator but you need to verify that the wiring is correct for a system with points. 10 amps should be plenty to run your coil/points setup. You also need to verify the negative connection between the battery - and the engine chassis. If that is bad then the regulator won't work.

#7 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2012 - 10:33 AM

Just to add to what Brian said make sure the regulator to what ever it's mounted/grounded to is good., Al

#8 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2012 - 05:42 PM

Just to add to what Brian said make sure the regulator to what ever it's mounted/grounded to is good., Al


This has happened twice to Ryan's MF10, I ended up putting a star washer in between the regulator base and the frame where it mounts.
  • chris m said thank you

#9 Rick OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2012 - 07:29 AM

I went to the local john deere dealer to talk to the service manager about the problam I am having,after talking about it for a while he went into the shop and got the head mechanic, and we all talked about it.They both agreed that 27.5 a/c volts was not enough of a drop to replace the stator.They told me that I should think about replacing the regulator because it is only putting 11.5 d/c volts back into the battery.That would be alot easyier to do being the motor dont have to come out.I think I will take their advice and switch it out.They also found me a used one for 35.00 which I think is a great price being the new ones are 150.00 plus tax.

Edited by Rick, June 08, 2012 - 07:30 AM.


#10 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2012 - 07:47 AM

We'll keep our fingers crossed for you , Al

#11 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2012 - 10:25 AM

Hopefully that will sort it out for you. Good connections are very important in the charge circuit so check them while you are replacing the regulator module.

#12 Rick OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2012 - 12:56 PM

Thanks I will let you guys know how it goes.

#13 JRJ OFFLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2012 - 06:20 PM

One other thing that has not been mentioned and that is the condition of the battery. I would suggest pulling it out, take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested, most auto parts store will do it free.

Dick

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Posted December 06, 2012 - 06:32 PM

If you need any more regulators, you can get an OE Kohler regulator for $85 delivered, or aftermarket regulators from $28 delivered... HERE

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Posted December 06, 2012 - 06:35 PM

How do the flywheel magnets look? are they evenly spaced and do any of them look like they we re-glued?
Relay regulator or diode?

Sounds to me like one of the magnets has come loose and shifted position or fell out and someone glued it in upside down.
If it is a relay regulator, clean the contacts, just like cleaning the contacts on breaker points




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