170 replies to this topic

[wvbuzzmaster]

I think I may try this on some rims. It has to be easier than wire brush... just have to decide what power source to use. Can this be as easy as just 2 electrodes, one on each side with one being negative, one being positive?

[olcowhand]

I think I may try this on some rims. It has to be easier than wire brush... just have to decide what power source to use. Can this be as easy as just 2 electrodes, one on each side with one being negative, one being positive?

Your part IS the negative. The anodes surrounding the part are positive. Rims have many angles, so line of sight will mean at least 4 positive anodes around the rim. Do the rim laying flat first, then stand it upright for the dish.

[wvbuzzmaster]

Ok, I guess I didn't understand the negative part of the function. But still sounds easier than cleaning up the rims by hand. Thanks for clearing that up.

[KennyP]

Question for the electrolysis gurus out there. Could you use a large cast iron pot (6 quart?) as a positive and hang bolts/small parts off wire on negative for cleaning such small items? Just wondering if it would work.
KennyP

[NUTNDUN]

Question for the electrolysis gurus out there. Could you use a large cast iron pot (6 quart?) as a positive and hang bolts/small parts off wire on negative for cleaning such small items? Just wondering if it would work.
KennyP

Kenny,
I think it would work. Only two suggestions, one would be to make sure to put it up on wood blocks to keep it from grounding and the other is to make sure you don't use one of the wife's pots. She might not like that

[KennyP]

Thanks, I haven't tried doing this, just keep reading and digesting the info. It just struck me that the iron pot would be a pretty good anode. Wood blocks would be the way to go and the pot is one we don't use anyway (I'm the one who uses the cast iron for cooking here. Tastes more like Mom's food. I hate non-stick.)
KennyP

[Chad33]

I am new to all of this and have never painted. I've read a lot about electrolosis and sandblasting. Is this totally necessary? If the existing paint is not flaking, can I just give it a quick sand and then prime and paint it? Is the risk peeling paint? Where can I learn about painting with a sprayer? I want to know how much air to use, tips, etc. I know nothing, but am eager to learn. What about this rustoleum roll on paint?

Can someone highlight start to finish procedures. I have been reading the forums and see there are there are many different ways to skin a cat. Since this is my first restore, I am not looking to do the "perfect paint job" - Perfect Paint Job, as discussed in other forums, but something respectable, yet simple enough to start with and not get too frustrated. I see several people even use rattle cans, at least for primer. I will be restoring a 66 MF10.

Thanks for any help!

[NUTNDUN]

I am new to all of this and have never painted. I've read a lot about electrolosis and sandblasting. Is this totally necessary? If the existing paint is not flaking, can I just give it a quick sand and then prime and paint it? Is the risk peeling paint? Where can I learn about painting with a sprayer? I want to know how much air to use, tips, etc. I know nothing, but am eager to learn. What about this rustoleum roll on paint?

Can someone highlight start to finish procedures. I have been reading the forums and see there are there are many different ways to skin a cat. Since this is my first restore, I am not looking to do the "perfect paint job" - Perfect Paint Job, as discussed in other forums, but something respectable, yet simple enough to start with and not get too frustrated. I see several people even use rattle cans, at least for primer. I will be restoring a 66 MF10.

Thanks for any help!

A lot of it boils down to personal preference of how one wants to do it. I prefer to use electrolysis or sandblasting to take everything down to bare metal. If the original paint is in good shape with no rust under it then roughing the surface and priming is fine. If you do it this way and you were going for the perfect paint job then you would want to use the filling type primer with many coats and wet sand out the imperfections so when you spray the color coats the final finish will be nice and smooth.

You need a couple of things if you are looking to use a sprayer, one would be an air compressor. You would want one that will keep up with an HVLP gun, which is a high volume low pressure gun. You will get a lot less overspray with a HVLP gun. It does take more air to run though hence the high volume. My Craftsman 30 gallon air compressor did an alright job keeping up with my HVLP gun, I would have to stop once in a while give the compressor a break.

With you looking to restore your 66 MF10 I would take my time and do as nice of a job as possible, or maybe practice on another tractor first. The 66's are considered rare and are desirable to the Massey guys.

The rustoleum roll on paint that you speak of is good stuff but not meant for a good finish. I would consider it more for trailers or implements before I would use it for any sheet metal. You can also use spray paint to do your restoration, a lot of guys have gone this route and with a little practice you can get a great finish with spray cans. You want to do a couple of thin coats and then do one final heavier coat. You spray the heavier coat to where it is almost to the point where a little more and it would run, it helps the paint flow and make for a smooth finish. It is hard to describe in words. Hopefully that info helps though.

[Billygoat]

Tried this to get rid of rust. I was surprised it worked as well as it did. I went with a small set up and a piece of scrap, then did the battery tray from my GT. Cleaned the scrap up nicely. It worked great on the battery tray. It's a little too slow for me to remove rust, (patience is not my strong point). I really do like it for stripping paint though. Very little mess to deal with. Ended up blasting the flywheel though, I think it would have taken about a week as bad as the rust was. I was using a 2a/10a charger and found it was faster at 2a instead of 10a. Go figure.

[NUTNDUN]

Tried this to get rid of rust. I was surprised it worked as well as it did. I went with a small set up and a piece of scrap, then did the battery tray from my GT. Cleaned the scrap up nicely. It worked great on the battery tray. It's a little too slow for me to remove rust, (patience is not my strong point). I really do like it for stripping paint though. Very little mess to deal with. Ended up blasting the flywheel though, I think it would have taken about a week as bad as the rust was. I was using a 2a/10a charger and found it was faster at 2a instead of 10a. Go figure.

I don't have the best patience either but I figure I can dip some parts while I sandblast others. I am anxious to get the tank fired back up now that warmer weather is here.

[tractor buddy]

A buddy of mine has a 24 volt charger for tractor trailer trucks. Anyone know if this would work ?

[olcowhand]

A buddy of mine has a 24 volt charger for tractor trailer trucks. Anyone know if this would work ?

I'm sure it would work just fine! I'd like to have one of those!

[tractor buddy]

Thanks I'll let you know.

[DMF]

What are you guys using for chargers? I had an old Sears charger that worked good for a while but then it quit. I have a newer one but it's a "smart" charger and it doesn't work on anything but a battery. All the new ones I see in the stores are "smart" or "automatic". Do I have to look for another older charger?

[Chuck_050382]

What are you guys using for chargers? I had an old Sears charger that worked good for a while but then it quit. I have a newer one but it's a "smart" charger and it doesn't work on anything but a battery. All the new ones I see in the stores are "smart" or "automatic". Do I have to look for another older charger?

I was able to make my "smart" charger work by hooking a deep cycle battery up along with the tank, only problem is the charger will turn itself off after 24 hrs.