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Electrolysis Rust Removal System


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#91 Chuck_050382 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2010 - 07:19 AM

I put together a small "test" setup this past weekend and Thought that using copper for the anode would yield better conduction, ie faster results. :laughingteeth: I was right...to a point. The process started very quickly and worked very well...until the copper started to react with the solution. The anode developed a crusty aqua color coating and the process basically stopped once it was totally encrusted. The solution turned a lovely "Tidy Bowl" color too. The rust was completely gone, as was residual paint and other gunk, but it seems it's a one-shot-deal using copper! If I could get my hands on some gold...J/K! Just thought I'd pass this along. I've heard (AFTER my little experiment) that stainless steel works well and needs less cleaning in between uses. We live and we learn.:blush2:


DONT USE STAINLESS!! It results in a toxic sludge/ gas.. Stainless steel has chromium in it.

Why you should not use stainless steel electrodes for electrolysis

Many people using the electrolysis method for rust reduction swear by stainless steel, stating (incorrectly) that it's not consumed, stays clean and seems safe.
Stainless steel is indeed consumed when used in the electrolysis process, although slowly. The main problem with using it is the hazardous waste it produces. Stainless steel contains chromium. The electrodes, and thus the chromium is consumed, and you end up with poisonous chromates in your electrolyte. Dumping these on the ground or down the drain is illegal. The compounds can cause severe skin problems and ultimately, cancer. Hexavalent chromate is poisonous. These compounds are not excused from hazardous waste regulations where household wastes are.
These compounds are bad enough that government regulations mandate "elimination of hexavalent chromate by 2007 for corrosion protection."

Does your electrolyte turn yellow? That's a sign of chromates.
If you have been using stainless steel for the anodes (positive electrodes), wear rubber gloves when working with or near the liquids. If you need to dispose of it, allow it to evaporate into powders and dispose of the powders in sealed containers during your local "hazardous waste clean-up days".
Best bet - don't use stainless steel no matter how tempting it is.



#92 Chuck_050382 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2010 - 07:22 AM

My charger stopped working at some point between monday night and last night, so all my parts are getting rusty again..

got it working, but it was dead again this morning. Going to have to work on the charger or find another power source.

#93 DGS345 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2010 - 10:38 AM

I have been watching this post off and on for a while now. I think that i am going to add building one of these to my to do list. I will probly wait till spring but I like the whole no sandblasting idea

#94 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2010 - 05:57 PM

I put together a small "test" setup this past weekend and Thought that using copper for the anode would yield better conduction, ie faster results. :laughingteeth: I was right...to a point. The process started very quickly and worked very well...until the copper started to react with the solution. The anode developed a crusty aqua color coating and the process basically stopped once it was totally encrusted. The solution turned a lovely "Tidy Bowl" color too. The rust was completely gone, as was residual paint and other gunk, but it seems it's a one-shot-deal using copper! If I could get my hands on some gold...J/K! Just thought I'd pass this along. I've heard (AFTER my little experiment) that stainless steel works well and needs less cleaning in between uses. We live and we learn.:blush2:


In the 5th post on this thread there is a link and it says in there not to use copper or stainless for anodes only iron bars.
Says copper is messy and stainless is toxic and illegal to dump the tank out.


I forgot that I said this in an earlier post, oops.

Edited by DH1, October 03, 2010 - 08:33 PM.
added content.


#95 Chuck_050382 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2010 - 08:43 AM

Burnt up my battery charger doing this so dad is digging thru his stuff to find a mega power source for me.

#96 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2010 - 08:52 AM

Burnt up my battery charger doing this so dad is digging thru his stuff to find a mega power source for me.


DC welder does great!

#97 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2010 - 08:04 PM

I put an amp meter on my setup and my 12amp battery charger only puts out about 5amps through the tank.
Going to try my friends larger charger.

Edited by DH1, September 30, 2010 - 09:18 PM.
spelling


#98 hydriv OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2010 - 09:03 PM

The solution in the tank is what allows current to be passed from the anode to the cathode. Therefore, the solution acts like a variable resistor. The variable part is the distance between the anode and the cathode. In other words, the closer the parts you wish to clean are to the rods you have in the tank, the higher the current draw will be. I suspect another way to increase the speed would be to put 2 or 3 twelve-volt batteries in series to up the voltage to 24 or 36 volts because it's voltage that does the pushing.

#99 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2010 - 03:33 PM

Have tried 4 different chargers and no difference in max amps. 50amp battery charger is still only about 5 amps though the tank.
Going to try my 36volt golf cart battery charger next, 3x the voltage should be 3x the current,
36volt- 15amps, well see.

#100 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2010 - 04:35 PM

Well I decided to test this out for myself today.
Made up a quick setup using a 5gal Bucket and used a Bolens part to test. Put two anodes in the bucket, plugged in the charger and it started bubbling!
About 5 or so hours later I took it out and the old paint just peeled right off :dancingbanana: This works great!!!!
I probably wont get to it this year, but I'm planning on using this method on my Brinly dump accessory.

electrolysis 003.jpg

Attached Thumbnails

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#101 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2010 - 03:22 PM

"olcowhand" said that if you clean the anodes the proses works better he's right.
I cleaned my anodes down to bare metal with the bench grinder and wire wheel, what a difference.
Amps went from 5 to 20 with the small charger set on the same setting with the same piece of tin in the tank. How you get 20amps out of a charger that's suppose to put out 12amps when on the 12amp setting???
Using the big charger even more about 30 on start feature, 20 on the 60amp setting.
My amp meter might not be to accurate so I did some voltage readings taken from the alligator leads off the chargers.

-small charger on 12amp--9volts
-small charger on start ---12volts
-big charger on high(60amp)-10volts
-big charger on start ------12volts

Big charger does put out more, about 10% more, and I don't think it's a good idea to leave these on start mode for a long period of time.

Lesson learned here clean the anodes it makes everything work better.

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#102 peavley OFFLINE  

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Posted October 11, 2010 - 02:35 PM

Hello yall,
I have been wanting to try this method out to clean some cast iron posts and stuff. I set it up this past weekend and couled not get any bubbles going and nothing happened. I am wondering...I used a newer (2 yrs ols) digital battery charger and it kept giving me a FAULT reading when I turned it on. So then I borrowed my paw-in-laws and it has a light that lights up when connected...well it never lit up for me. It sounded like it was running, so I left it on all night and there was no progress in the morning. I am wondering if I need to find an older battery charger tha may not have any safety features on it.
I had it set up in a 50 gal drum, and all of the measurements were correct, this is the only thing I can think of as far as why it did not work.
My electrodes are re-bar and they stick out of the water about 2 feet does this matter? Is it hard to get a good connection on rebar? Thay are all tied together with #10 copper wire.
Any thoughts would be appretiated.
Thanks, Steve

#103 Chuck_050382 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 11, 2010 - 03:21 PM

Your smart charger is the problem. I tried mine when I first setup my tank, and had to switch to a older charger and ran it manual mode.

#104 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 11, 2010 - 03:39 PM

Chuck is right some chargers need to sense some battery voltage or the won't turn on, safety feature, you need to use a charger that can be used as a 12volt power supply, a manual type that doesn't have that feature on it.

#105 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted October 11, 2010 - 09:18 PM

"olcowhand" said that if you clean the anodes the proses works better he's right.
I cleaned my anodes down to bare metal with the bench grinder and wire wheel, what a difference.
Amps went from 5 to 20 with the small charger set on the same setting with the same piece of tin in the tank. How you get 20amps out of a charger that's suppose to put out 12amps when on the 12amp setting???
Using the big charger even more about 30 on start feature, 20 on the 60amp setting.
My amp meter might not be to accurate so I did some voltage readings taken from the alligator leads off the chargers.

-small charger on 12amp--9volts
-small charger on start ---12volts
-big charger on high(60amp)-10volts
-big charger on start ------12volts

Big charger does put out more, about 10% more, and I don't think it's a good idea to leave these on start mode for a long period of time.

Lesson learned here clean the anodes it makes everything work better.


OK! that may be why mine slowed down.
I'll give that a try.
And yes these auto charges are not a good power supply. Either won't work or they COOK.
You need a power supply that can control it's output to 15 - 20 amps and maintain that output without overheating. Just what I am finding.




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