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Electrolysis Rust Removal System


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#76 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2010 - 06:56 PM

I took the attachment out that wasn't showing. I can't wait to set up our tank. I just sandblasted the wheels from dad's Bolens 1053 and got them painted and was thinking the whole time how nice it would be to just drop the rims in and let them be.

A blue barrel definitely wouldn't be a good thing. That usually means you didn't get lucky haha.

#77 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2010 - 09:56 PM

I don't think that it's just you... however, there is a little blue pill that is supposed solve that problem.


At the risk of seeming like a Middle-High kid or Beevus & Butthead.
:rolling::laughingteeth::rolling::laughingteeth::rolling: I needed that.

P.S. But if it "works" for more than 4 hours, go see a doctor.

#78 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 20, 2010 - 06:51 PM

Well, was a long hard day shelling corn & had to work on a hot combine (but did finish ALL harvest today), so decided to pass on pulling & working the parts tonight. Will try to brush them off tomorrow after morning milking or tomorrow evening. Gotta try & straighten up outside too, as member "Grumpy" is coming for a visit Wednesday. Looking forward to meeting Chuck....not Illinois Chuck, but Indiana Chuck.

#79 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 21, 2010 - 07:24 PM

Ok, I didn't take any pics, so you'll have to take my word for it. But a while back I sandblasted one of my footboards off the D4-10. Took a good 1/2hr to do top to bottom. Still had some primer spots left & had to blast some more, and it was HOT in the shop even with fans running. I put my other footboard into my electrolyte solution last night & pulled it tonight. Took maybe 3 minutes to wire brush clean, then washed with detergent, blowed off dry with air gun, then shot the primer. From time of pulling to being under primer.....maybe 10 minutes tops! And after a light brushing, it looked much better than the 1st one when I finished blasting it. For most things I will only use the solution as it's way easier and way cheaper than running a compressor, plus a dust collection system. With air I run a 5hp compressor, sometimes I hoop both compressors together totaling 11hp, plus the 3hp shop vac. I'm using a pitifully small fraction of the compressor electricity with my little 10amp charger. Of course winter will mean sandblasting as I don't think my wife will want the barrel in the house!

#80 Chuck_050382 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2010 - 08:13 AM

i started gathering supplies last night. Looking at my scrap piles for parts I could use as electrodes.

#81 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2010 - 10:51 AM

From what I've seen, it would be best in-between each batch of parts to pull the electrodes & simply brush clean with a wire brush. After I just did so, there was much more bubbling action, so more effective removal.

#82 Chuck_050382 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2010 - 11:06 AM

from what i've seen, it would be best in-between each batch of parts to pull the electrodes & simply brush clean with a wire brush. After i just did so, there was much more bubbling action, so more effective removal.


good tip.

#83 Chuck_050382 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2010 - 08:00 AM

After talking on the phone to Olcowhand on saturday, I got my tank set up and got some parts cooking.

Will be pulling the parts tonight, and will have some pictures.

I am using a 100 gal rubbermaid stock tank.

#84 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2010 - 08:59 AM

I fastlined some parts yesterday. Had to do my hood & seat base separately because of size, so had to run 2 loads in one day. Hooked my Hobart welder to it set on 50 amps DC. 2hrs for each part & DONE!
Hope you have great results Chuck!

#85 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2010 - 10:12 PM

Set myself up with an electrolysis tank today, did pretty much the same as everyone else, used 4 metal Tbar tree stakes, used what I had. Got 1 seat pan in there now and will see how it does.
Looks like the best thing about this is it works while you do other things.

#86 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2010 - 05:19 AM

Looks like the best thing about this is it works while you do other things.


I think that is the best part about it and the next best thing is you don't have the mess from all the sand unless you have a blasting cabinet. I gotta get my tank setup here soon.

#87 Chuck_050382 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2010 - 07:28 AM

here is my setup:
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here are the parts before
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Here are a few after coming out of the tank and a light cleaning with a putty knife and a wire brush
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I put the parts back in because I didn't have time to finish cleaning them and prime them last night. I was really impressed with how well this works. Looking forward to using it to clean all parts.

#88 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2010 - 08:35 AM

Looking good Chuck, and I love your tank setup!

#89 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2010 - 06:40 PM

I put together a small "test" setup this past weekend and Thought that using copper for the anode would yield better conduction, ie faster results. :laughingteeth: I was right...to a point. The process started very quickly and worked very well...until the copper started to react with the solution. The anode developed a crusty aqua color coating and the process basically stopped once it was totally encrusted. The solution turned a lovely "Tidy Bowl" color too. The rust was completely gone, as was residual paint and other gunk, but it seems it's a one-shot-deal using copper! If I could get my hands on some gold...J/K! Just thought I'd pass this along. I've heard (AFTER my little experiment) that stainless steel works well and needs less cleaning in between uses. We live and we learn.:blush2:

#90 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2010 - 07:24 PM

This is my setup and pic of the seat pan after 1 day and 10min. of cleaning, pan was painted and had few rust spots on it. 90% of the paint came off with the garden hose.
If this setup can do 1 piece or load in 1 day it will save me a lot of time and I'll get a lot more done.

FYI- The 5th post in this thread has a link that says don't use copper or stainless for anodes, only iron bars.
Says copper messy and stainless toxic and illegal to dump.

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