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Electrolysis Rust Removal System


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#136 DMF OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2011 - 03:47 PM

I was able to make my "smart" charger work by hooking a deep cycle battery up along with the tank, only problem is the charger will turn itself off after 24 hrs.


Does it have to be a deep cycle? If so, my charger has a deep cycle setting; is that what you set it on? I think mine only puts out 2 amps on deep cycle...?

#137 Chuck_050382 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2011 - 03:52 PM

probably doesnt have to be a deep cycle, and I dont have a deep cycle charge setting so I used the 20 amp charge mode.

#138 tractor buddy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2011 - 11:42 AM

Hi Guys. If I put this gas tank in the bath will the inside be affected ?

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#139 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2011 - 11:54 AM

Hi Guys. If I put this gas tank in the bath will the inside be affected ?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]14818[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]14819[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]14820[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]14821[/ATTACH]

No it is line of sight with the electrodes only.

#140 tractor buddy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2011 - 12:23 PM

Ok Thanks Ducky

#141 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2011 - 02:03 PM

If you could suspend a positive anode inside the fuel fill hole, it would also do the inside. You could tape over the end of the anode, and at the level of the neck to prevent shorting.

#142 tractor buddy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2011 - 10:02 AM

DSC_4994.jpg

This battery charger is a self-regulating charger with
a minimum of moving parts, designed for long,
trouble-free service. Built-in line voltage compensation
produces a consistent output when the AC
supply voltage varies by as much as 10% from
nominal. The charger utilizes convection cooling
which maximizes the reliability and minimizes any
maintenance costs. Only liquid electrolyte (wet) lead
acid batteries should be recharged with this charger
to ensure superior battery performance and life. A
patented electronic circuit turns the charger on and
off automatically. When the battery has reached its
maximum state of charge, the circuitry will turn the
charger off.

Well here is the 24 V charger I got from my friend. Do you guys think it will work without a battery attached.

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#143 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2011 - 10:33 AM

Does it have to be a deep cycle? If so, my charger has a deep cycle setting; is that what you set it on? I think mine only puts out 2 amps on deep cycle...?


I wouldn't try a deep cycle charge rate. Use full power charge rate, but n ot "start" mode.

#144 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2011 - 10:35 AM

Well here is the 24 V charger I got from my friend. Do you guys think it will work without a battery attached.


I would think it would work great!

#145 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2011 - 04:18 PM

I just yanked the hood and grill from the Cub 122 out of the tank yesterday and used a bristle brush and running water and most of the paint came off. There is still a little bit left on the hood but nothing the sandblaster won't take care of in quick order. The grill came out really clean after being washed. I have the second batch of parts in there now.

#146 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2011 - 07:05 PM

So you're beginning to like this method George?

#147 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2011 - 07:27 PM

So you're beginning to like this method George?


I do to some extent. Now that it seems to be working pretty good. I am not one for doing a lot of hand cleanup or sanding so that part of it I don't like. Where I am going to use it to my advantage though is to remove as much stuff as I can with the electrolysis and then use the sandblaster to do the final cleanup. It will only take a couple seconds as opposed to 15 minutes to a half hour with sandblasting alone.

#148 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2011 - 07:41 PM

On the parts that fit into my cabinet, that's what I do too. Electrolysis, brush, then blast last! Just a flash over with the blaster leaves things spotlessly clean.

#149 Tinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2011 - 10:06 PM

After reading about it for a year or so I decided today to try my hand at electrolysis rust removal. I went and found some old discarded tire chain cross links. I welded them together to make good contact and so they would hang on the bucket. I then dug around in my scrap metal and found a piece of metal rod that I found while mowing the neighbors yard (this piece actually stalled the engine because I couldn't shut the mower off quick enough - no damage to the mowing deck).0615111235.jpg I left the part in all afternoon and rotated it end for end once. It came out pretty good. I will play with it more tomorrow. The tire chains are just temporary to see how this whole thing works. Now that I see how it works I will begin designing a little more elaborate anode to give me more coverage.

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#150 gabeguy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2011 - 01:21 AM

I had a Briggs gas tank with a very rusted interior. I put some drywall screws inside and shook it around for a while to loosen all the flaky rust. Then I stuffed some steel wool into a old sock (whose mate had been abducted by the laundry gremlins), and stuffed the sock into the fill hole of the tank, leaving just enough hanging out to attach the Positive lead of the battery charger. I bolted a lenght of wire to the tank itself and connected it to the Negative lead. I submerged the tank in my electrolysis tank and let it go overnight. By morning all of the inerior rust was gone, and the sock was a soggy brown mess of decomposed steel wool. Now I just have to get some tank sealer to plug all the holes that had rusted through the tank over the years it was sitting outsed.
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