Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Jd 400 Will Not Move


  • Please log in to reply
17 replies to this topic

#1 Gary from Muleshoe ONLINE  

Gary from Muleshoe

    Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 6921
  • 34 Thanks
  • 89 posts
  • Location: Muleshoe, TX

Posted June 01, 2012 - 10:07 PM

Ok all you JD experts, friend of mine has a JD 400 that will not move. All the hydraulics work as they should. When put it hydro in forward or reverse it just lugs the engine down. Axel is not broke, first thing we tried. Drive shaft is turning as is should no broken keys. It just does not even attempt to move when lever is pushed to go forward or in reverse. Any and all advice very much appreciated. I am by no means familiar with these just trying to help a buddy out.

#2 chris m OFFLINE  

chris m

    Tractorholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8148
  • 3,277 Thanks
  • 4,033 posts
  • Location: Charlestown,Rhode Island

Posted June 01, 2012 - 11:06 PM

IF
MACHINE WILL NOT MOVE FORWARD OR BACKWARD
Low oil level.
Wrong oil.
Control linkage out of adjustment.
Low charge pressure.
Internal pump damage.

I'm not a Deere Guy, But I just found this info.

I'm sure someone with more knowledge will come along soon.

Good luck I hope there is a simple solution for your Buddy.

Edited by chris m, June 01, 2012 - 11:09 PM.

  • MH81 said thank you

#3 CASENUT OFFLINE  

CASENUT

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1974
  • 501 Thanks
  • 865 posts
  • Location: Sylvania, OH

Posted June 02, 2012 - 01:13 AM

LOL...I am most certainly NOT a JD fan but I have this answer for you.

How I came of this knowledge was very painstaking but, nonetheless here goes.

On the rear axle you will find a little 'lever' when that lever is in the up position 3 men and a boy would not be able to move that tractor...however, when depressed 2 guys can easily move the tractor...ya I had to drag it around for awhile before I got this one...

Funny no one ever professes to be a JD expert...the lawyers would have you pay for the knowledge and swear to secrecy...

GL
  • MH81 said thank you

#4 Gary400 OFFLINE  

Gary400

    JD,junkie

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2316
  • 225 Thanks
  • 768 posts
  • Location: North East Missouri

Posted June 02, 2012 - 06:28 AM

Gary , it does this in both low and high side ? and can you push it with the high / low selector in neutral ?

#5 101 senior OFFLINE  

101 senior

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 1393
  • 180 Thanks
  • 328 posts

Posted June 02, 2012 - 04:50 PM

could your push valve have vibrated out far enough so it bypasses?

#6 maxedout OFFLINE  

maxedout
  • Member
  • Member No: 9548
  • 37 Thanks
  • 90 posts
  • Location: Hays, North Carolina

Posted June 02, 2012 - 05:49 PM

Not sure if this has any bearing on the conversation, that said most Hydro's I've seen have a safety lever or sort of like a parking break normally in the rear of the tractor. It will be located in or near the seat. I am not even sure of the JD400 as I have never saw one..but if it's anything like My CUB, the Hydro isn't even made by JD. My Hydro will not move until the safety is engaged. It's in the rear near the fluid fill point. It's a pull lever, you pull it out to roll the tractor by hand, you push it in for the engine to pressure the transmission and move. Mine has stuck half in and half out before and the tractor wouldn't move under power. The pull lever was dirty and it did not engage totally and I was perplexed and just happened to check it closer about 4 HOURS later and a few hairs missing because I had tried everything.

In my case, a good cleaning then WD40 mine rolled under power. I thanked the tractor gods!

#7 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,637 Thanks
  • 29,838 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted June 02, 2012 - 05:56 PM

The main thing to note here is that when transaxle is in high or low, it bogs the engine down when speed control is moved forward or reverse. This means either the parking brake is locked down tight, or something inside is broken. If the tractor will roll free with the transaxle in neutral, then the parking brake is not at fault, and something must be messed up inside the transaxle or the "motor section" of the hydrostatic transmission.

#8 maxedout OFFLINE  

maxedout
  • Member
  • Member No: 9548
  • 37 Thanks
  • 90 posts
  • Location: Hays, North Carolina

Posted June 02, 2012 - 06:21 PM

Wrong fluid will certainly screw one up and if it requires a filter, some do, some don't but the filers can clog causing problems. A friend of mine had a hydro that wouldn't budge and he replaced the fluid and filter. Worked fine then...so question was what was wrong, he un-trashed the filter from the trash can and it was clogged. It's un-telling how long that filter had been on...

#9 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted June 02, 2012 - 07:13 PM

Doesn't sound good. As Daniel said the engine is loading down which means there is a jam up somewhere either mechanical or hydraulic otherwise it would not load the engine like that. If the valves are bypassed so you can push the tractor then the engine does not load down when you try to move.

#10 middleageddeere OFFLINE  

middleageddeere

    Tacos!

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 2033
  • 243 Thanks
  • 1,082 posts
  • Location: MI

Posted June 03, 2012 - 07:07 AM

Hmmmm...Sounds like about everything I would have said has been said. Parking brake, filter, wrong fluid...I agree that I don't think the drive is disengaged but it would be possible still, depending on the definition of "lugs the engine down". My advice would be to attempt to push it very slow and start from there. If it moves you know you have a hydro problem and if the wheels won't even turn slow then I would say you have a mechanical problem...

#11 Gary from Muleshoe ONLINE  

Gary from Muleshoe

    Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 6921
  • 34 Thanks
  • 89 posts
  • Location: Muleshoe, TX

Posted June 03, 2012 - 07:59 AM

Gary , it does this in both low and high side ? and can you push it with the high / low selector in neutral ?


Yes its does in both low and high side. Have not attempt to push it myself but will try it and get back to you on that.

#12 Gary from Muleshoe ONLINE  

Gary from Muleshoe

    Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 6921
  • 34 Thanks
  • 89 posts
  • Location: Muleshoe, TX

Posted June 03, 2012 - 08:02 AM

Wrong fluid will certainly screw one up and if it requires a filter, some do, some don't but the filers can clog causing problems. A friend of mine had a hydro that wouldn't budge and he replaced the fluid and filter. Worked fine then...so question was what was wrong, he un-trashed the filter from the trash can and it was clogged. It's un-telling how long that filter had been on...

New filter and fluids from JD dealer so thats out.

Edited by Gary from Muleshoe, June 03, 2012 - 08:02 AM.


#13 Gary from Muleshoe ONLINE  

Gary from Muleshoe

    Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 6921
  • 34 Thanks
  • 89 posts
  • Location: Muleshoe, TX

Posted June 03, 2012 - 08:05 AM

IF
MACHINE WILL NOT MOVE FORWARD OR BACKWARD
Low oil level.
Wrong oil.
Control linkage out of adjustment.
Low charge pressure.
Internal pump damage.

I'm not a Deere Guy, But I just found this info.

I'm sure someone with more knowledge will come along soon.

Good luck I hope there is a simple solution for your Buddy.


I am suspecting pump damage also? Is it the same pump for the the drive as for the hydo lift?

#14 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,637 Thanks
  • 29,838 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted June 03, 2012 - 08:34 AM

I am suspecting pump damage also? Is it the same pump for the the drive as for the hydo lift?


The charge pump supplies the hydro with oil AND it also serves as the hydraulic pressure pump for the lift cylinders. You can have good lift pressure even if the hydro is shot.

#15 TUDOR OFFLINE  

TUDOR

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 915
  • 543 Thanks
  • 497 posts
  • Location: Sault Ste Marie, Ontario

Posted June 03, 2012 - 08:33 PM

The main thing to note here is that when transaxle is in high or low, it bogs the engine down when speed control is moved forward or reverse. This means either the parking brake is locked down tight, or something inside is broken. If the tractor will roll free with the transaxle in neutral, then the parking brake is not at fault, and something must be messed up inside the transaxle or the "motor section" of the hydrostatic transmission.

Yes its does in both low and high side. Have not attempt to push it myself but will try it and get back to you on that.


My first thought is brakes, my second is a damaged rear end, and my third is the hydro motor section. A 4th possibility is the release valves for moving the tractor by hand, as mentioned by several members.

The first and fourth are relatively easy to check and correct. The other 2 require more thorough inspection and analysis, i.e. split the hydro from the rear end and find out which has the problem.

The charge pump supplies the hydro with oil AND it also serves as the hydraulic pressure pump for the lift cylinders. You can have good lift pressure even if the hydro is shot.


Since the charge pump works then the input shaft is intact and the hydro pump is also working, as noted by the engine lugging down when the drive control is moved.................

Ooops! New thought! Why is the engine lugging down? The accelleration valves should pop before that happens. That transmission will only soak up about 12 hp at max throttle and max pressure. At idle, that means about 4 hp. That's enough to bog the engine before the governor kicks in and brings the revs back up, but not enough to lug a healthy engine down. You would be hearing a shriek from the accelleration valves (relief valves) if they popped.

The "push valves"/"release valves"/"by-pass valves", or whatever you want to call the buttons on top of the transmission, just moved into first place.

Edited by TUDOR, June 03, 2012 - 08:35 PM.





Top