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Coil Switch And Ballast Resistors With Kohler

kohler coil switch

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#1 maxedout OFFLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2012 - 08:17 PM

I talked about doing this on another thread a couple of days or weeks ago but now I am ready to try it out.

LET ME BRAG A MINUTE! OK I DECIDED TO GO WITH AN MSD Coil, found a nice Blaster 2 for a low price.

Then I knew I would need a ballast resistor or at least figured I would. SO here where the bragging starts, found a Company Called JEGS, I know you guys who do Hot Rods know these folks. At any rate, I got my resistor from them, now here's the bragging which is amazing in today's world.

Shipping, they must have been waiting at my door, I ordered it, it was here like about as fast as I clicked confirm payment.
They sent me a Free JEGS Decal set and a Free cap and hey brothers that meant a lot to me. I never expected it but it was an awesome way to start off doing business.

OK, now I have all my part's ready and here's where I would like idea's or tips from the pro's here. OK we're dealing with a Kohler 14hp 321 on a John Deere 214. The original coil is mounted on the engine, sideways. I would like to move the coil to another location and I was thinking near the battery box?

My reason for wanting to move it is one being my new coil is larger I would need to anyway and another reason is heat.

Should I mount it sideways? And I know from experience the resistor will need plenty of air to cool as it supposed too.

OK, what's your take on the MSD coils? I know some hot rod guru's have a preference!
Any ideas would be great!

Be a fun mod I think!

#2 Enginerod OFFLINE  



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Posted May 31, 2012 - 06:57 AM

A coil doesn't care if its mounted sideways or vertically. From what I have read moving the coil to the battery tray is preferred to isolate it from vibration and heat which can cause failure. The battery tray would also be a good place to mount the ballast resistor.
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#3 maxedout OFFLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2012 - 11:14 AM

Well here is my plan, I am posting in hopes that if anyone sees an error in my plan they'll speak up.

First stage is to make the original wiring longer and go where I need them which will be at the battery box.

OK, using the original positive wire to original coil, I will use it to the new Ballast resistor, in series and then to new coil positive.

The negative wire will be used as original and go back to the points, the wire will just be made longer.

I have already made a nice new bracket and picked and area with good air flow.

My battery box was already missing the battery clamps, that holds the battery in place. I came up with a neat fix for that as well

I also changed or will be changing the starter solenoid to a larger more heavy duty one. I found a good deal at Advance and near as I can tell at this point it works the same as the solenoid on it now. It's just larger and more heavy built.

I bought a new Key and ignition switch and will be changing that out as well. I'd like to change it to the type that I can use the key to turn the lights on and off like on my cub cadet. Reason being, I would like to use the standard light switch for something else I have planned.

I am going to add an accessory jack for 12 volt supply, Like for running a GPS or some such. Yea like I will need a GPS but on occasion we do land plots and fox hunts with 2 meter ham radio and a gps would be cool to have.

Next move will be to remove the pans and repaint some of the under side of my tractor but right now is getting this thing a better coil.

I am hoping if I get the extra cash just to do away with the points completely and use that new kit. In the long run I think it would be better and make for a better running tractor.