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Flipping A Rear Center Section?


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#1 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2012 - 01:33 AM

Have Plastic King (85) chassis that I'm wanting to make a "Butt-Buggy" out of. Want to have two-wide seat more to middle, and a box on back. Kinda like a golfcart or Gator has. I'm going to put a kohller single in like the old PK's have, not turned around like the orig engines. SO, the drive runs backwards from orig. I would have 1 slow forward and three pretty fast backwards speeds if hooked up as is. SO, I see parts of these rears for sale on epay all the time, so must be able to come apart fairly easy? I want to pull center section and axle tubes out of the bull cases. Think If I take whole assmebly with axles and all, should go right over. Then the drive would be right for engine rotation I want to use. How does one get these pulled apart? I will also probly have to leave some loose till I get driveline in and lined up correctly before pushing in tight. Anyone ever tried to seperate this assembly and how'ld you do it??? Sitting on seat the pinion on mine is now to the right of center and the big bulge in case is on top. With flip the pinion will move left side and the bulge on bottom. How is it on a metal pK? I don't have one to look at now. I have parts CD, will have to look and see if I can tell from pix there.

#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2012 - 04:12 AM

This sounds like an interesting build thread. I have no answers for you, but wish you luck.

#3 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2012 - 06:06 AM

Here's a pic of mine if that helps , did the newer PKs use " bullgears " for the rears ? Al

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#4 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2012 - 06:21 AM

Found a pic of the what the bullgear looks like

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#5 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2012 - 06:39 AM

Pretty strong looking outfit! If I ever see a PK for sale up here I'm going to try to get it. I've seen only 1 in the last few years and at that time I didn't realize what a great tractor they are.

#6 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2012 - 10:57 AM

Yes, rear is same in appearance as older ones. Think the case might be aluminum though. I guess you have to tear into the bull gear cases like this picture here and there is some bolts around upper shaft to unbolt, not just all press fit. My hope would be that the bolt pattern will be the same either way wheb flipped. I think it is going to work. Gonna be messy tho with all that gear oil to remove, then those gaskets need to be ordered for closure, then the sealing of the bolts to frame so they don't leak! I've had them open before to transfer to another frame or to paint frames. Just never tried to dis-mantle one. Not sure why they didn't just have some mount spots that could un-bolt from outside and make working on them easier! Most other brands did that.

#7 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2012 - 10:43 PM

Took a couple pix of the plastic King frame and rear. You can see it is about same as early metal ones. Won't have time to tear-down for awhile, but plan to do that. I'm thinking it can be done pretty easy. You can see a 3spd trans I have linked up with that rear. I was going to try that with older clutch, but goes wrong way, so can't do it that way. Trans will be much farther ahead on the engine I use if I can get it flipped.

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#8 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2012 - 06:07 AM

I'm kind of lost on where your trying to mount the engine ,right in front of the trans in the pictures ? I see that the bulge in the rear is on a different side . Good luck with it and keep those pictures and updates coming ,Al

#9 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2012 - 10:59 AM

Al, was trying to put the trans right there and run old style clutch and shaft off flywheel side of engine that was in it to try to make it back to a PK. The newer 4spd's all mount right there and clutch on front of it, then a shaft. I now have two or more of those 4spd drivelines, but not going to use them afterall. I bought two more Plastic Kings and they now need driveline work and gonna save parts for them. SO.......NO, that is not going way back there now. Will be putting on kohler single, just like older PK's, with tube and shaft to drive rear. Problem is direction change messes up just bolting in, as now runs off the pto shaft side of engine and not the flywheel like orig did. Engine will mount on that flat plate in front, same as normal and clutch and trans right behind. I will be moving the steering column out of way also to do that.

#10 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2012 - 08:17 PM

Update! One step forward and Two steps back! Got those darn brake pins out of system and off. Tore down both sides and flipped center section today. The vent that was on top was a pipe thread, so removed that and put in plug. Probly won't put vent back in on top, no holes and don't see the need for it anyway? Problem now is the carrier leans downward, just as much as it used to lean Upward in stock position. I found some holes in tubes going into carrier that most tubes are welded at to keep in place. I dug out the silicone they had in the holes and NO WELDS! So, is this good or bad or no diff? I was going to grind/drill out the welds and try to move carrier with a jack to pivot it. Jack just moves whole tractor frame now, and a long 2x 4 prying up on nose accross frame didn't budge at present. I have one of those spreader jaws from my hydraulic bender kit, but has broken connector now. I could maybe get that between the heavy cross-member on frame and the front part of the Carrier and see what I can break! Carrier is aluminum in this darn thing and I can see me breaking it easy with one wrong push. Thinking other option is too heat the tubes at those holes and try, but can't do both at one time, so don't think that is going to work either. Any ideas? Few Pictures. :confuse:

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#11 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2012 - 12:29 AM

Update again! Used my hydraulic ram kit to try to move third member up. Put lots of pressure on it, no move. heated the tubes on each side and No move! Finally just gave it a rap with a big hammer and it moved Easy! Later on in night when working on driveline, was cool and no hydraulics, I just rapped it again and it moved again, fairly easy. Sheesh! Not sure if it was really the heat that made a diff, or just would have moved with hammer before all that, if I had tried?? Flipped the steering arms over to other sides and upside down and going to be moving the steering box over to left, just like on older PK's. Now I'm going to just flip steering box, don't see any issue with that and just need one of the Metal PK mounts to set it up.

#12 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2012 - 07:52 AM

Glad to hear you got it apart without something breaking , keep us posted of your progress , Al

#13 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2012 - 01:37 PM

Here's some shots of project so far. Just looking like a metal PK really and I'm using metal tractor parts! Still need a tube and steering box mount, but think I have coming now. Clutch pedal might be an issure, wants to hit frame in this set-up. Just bend up in middle? or make diff linkage all together? New angle iron type motor mounts will also be needed to get the slant on engine right. Was just flat in orig, but it had driveshaft with joints to compensate.

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#14 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2012 - 02:33 PM

Looking good! Can't help on the mounts, though! That first pic from the rear makes it look vveerryy long!




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