Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

59 Chevy / Cummins-2


  • Please log in to reply
31 replies to this topic

#1 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

jdcrawler

    tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1639
  • 3,175 Thanks
  • 1,726 posts
  • Location: Madison, Indiana

Posted May 23, 2012 - 12:55 PM

The 6.2 engine got pulled out of the truck today.

Posted Image


Here it is ready to be picked up.
Someone in Texas bought it and is making a road trip to come up and get it.

Posted Image


Here is the space that I have to work with.
I took the Chevy motor mounts off the frame and they are going with the old engine.

Posted Image


When checking the preliminary dimensions for putting the Cummins in here, it looked like the engine might be just a tad longer than the space in the engine compartment.
It was hard to get an accurate measurement with the 6.2 setting in there but my assumption was correct.
If the Cummings is sitting up against the setback in the firewall, the fan will be sitting about 3/4 inch too far forward.

There is no room to move the radiator any farther forward so I'm going to have to cut the firewall and move it back about 1-1/2 inch.

#2 KennyP OFFLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,523 Thanks
  • 39,742 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted May 23, 2012 - 01:20 PM

Sorry to hear of the interference problem, Ray! But, after seeing what you have done in the past, sounds like you can get ti done. Just hope you have that 1-1/2" inside to move it back!
  • jdcrawler said thank you

#3 bh115577 OFFLINE  

bh115577
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 9791
  • 434 Thanks
  • 235 posts
  • Location: Canastota NY

Posted May 23, 2012 - 01:28 PM

What Cummins are you putting in there? 12 valve, 24 valve?

If you are tackling a project like this I'm sure you though about access. I've got a 2000 Ram and adjusting the valves and working on the injectors for the # 6 cylinder can be tight.

Nice project by the way. Got any more pics?
  • jdcrawler said thank you

#4 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

jdcrawler

    tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1639
  • 3,175 Thanks
  • 1,726 posts
  • Location: Madison, Indiana

Posted May 23, 2012 - 01:39 PM

Sorry to hear of the interference problem, Ray! But, after seeing what you have done in the past, sounds like you can get ti done. Just hope you have that 1-1/2" inside to move it back!

I don't think there will be any problem moving the center of the firewall back but I may have to change the heater / defroster housing a little.

I was planning on making a few changes inside the cab anyway.
I want to change the seats and put in a new electric windshield wiper motor that has a pulse setting on it.
I'm also going to be modifying the dash to allow for an air conditioning unit to be added later


What Cummins are you putting in there? 12 valve, 24 valve?

I'm using a 12 valve out of a 1990 Dodge Ram 250.
More photos will be posted as work progresses .

Edited by jdcrawler, May 23, 2012 - 01:51 PM.


#5 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

Texas Deere and Horse

    RED Wild Hogs, Horses & Deeres

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1435
  • 14,464 Thanks
  • 15,392 posts
  • Location: East of San Antonio Texas

Posted May 23, 2012 - 01:45 PM

Ray, Can you use electric fan in front of the Rad., and have enough room?
  • jdcrawler said thank you

#6 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

jdcrawler

    tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1639
  • 3,175 Thanks
  • 1,726 posts
  • Location: Madison, Indiana

Posted May 23, 2012 - 02:02 PM

Ray, Can you use electric fan in front of the Rad., and have enough room?

Removing the engine fan would certainly allow for enough room between the engine and the radiator.
However, I don't trust electric fans on a truck like this that does some very heavy hauling.
I want the good old 6-blade mechanical fan.

#7 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

Texas Deere and Horse

    RED Wild Hogs, Horses & Deeres

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1435
  • 14,464 Thanks
  • 15,392 posts
  • Location: East of San Antonio Texas

Posted May 23, 2012 - 07:07 PM

Ray, The electric fans came a long way in the past few years. They being used in a lot of industrial and commercial applications everyday now. Even being used on Semi's now.

Just a thought to keep from chopping up the fire wall.
  • jdcrawler said thank you

#8 Amigatec OFFLINE  

Amigatec

    Collector of Rusty Junk

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5899
  • 2,023 Thanks
  • 3,172 posts
  • Location: Haskell Oklahoma

Posted May 23, 2012 - 07:41 PM

I agree with Ray, electric fans have never impressed me either.
  • jdcrawler said thank you

#9 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

jdcrawler

    tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1639
  • 3,175 Thanks
  • 1,726 posts
  • Location: Madison, Indiana

Posted May 24, 2012 - 10:25 AM

Originally I wanted to keep my aluminum radiator that I had used for the 6.2 engine.
Turns out that isn't going to work.
The 6.2 radiator has the inlet and outlet on opposite sides and the Cummins requires the inlet and outlet to be on the same side.
Here are the 6.2 radiator and the Cummins radiator.

Posted Image

Posted Image


It also turns out that this could be a blessing in disguise.
The Cummins radiator is about 1-1/2 inch thinner than the 6.2 radiator so I just may not have to move the center of the firewall back.
Here are the 6.2 radiator and the Cummins radiator.

Posted Image

Posted Image


The 6.2 engine had the fuel supply and return lines on the passenger side of the block and the Cummins has the fuel lines on the drivers side of the block so I took the fuel filter off the passenger side fender well.
I also took the radiator overflow tank and the windshield washer tank off the fender well.
These will both be re-located closer to the cab.

Posted Image


I'm going to use the factory air filter system.
A hole will have to be cut into the fender well for the filter canister to stick thru.
I'll also have to make a cutout behind the grill for the cold air intake tube.

Posted Image
  • KennyP said thank you

#10 bgkid2966 OFFLINE  

bgkid2966

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8254
  • 1,407 Thanks
  • 1,327 posts
  • Location: Aurora, Illinois

Posted May 24, 2012 - 11:15 AM

This looks to be an awesome project. I will be keeping up on this. Thanks for sharing.

Geno
  • jdcrawler said thank you

#11 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

jdcrawler

    tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1639
  • 3,175 Thanks
  • 1,726 posts
  • Location: Madison, Indiana

Posted May 24, 2012 - 02:05 PM

The Dodge had electrical gauges and my old truck has mechanical gauges so I want to remove the electrical sending units and install the mechanical fittings before I set the engine in place.
The water temperature port is at the back drivers side of the block and there is no problem for hooking up the gauge.

The oil pressure port was on the very back of the 6.2 with just a short line comming out of the fire wall to hook to it.
The oil pressure port on the Cummins is down over the motor mount on the drivers side of the block.
Instead of running all the way into town to get a longer oil line kit I decided to move the oil port to the back of the block.

I cut a section of steel brake line to the correct length and flared the end.

Posted Image


The finished oil line has a flare fitting on one end and the compression fitting for the gauge tubing on the other end.

Posted Image


The steel line is mounted on the side of the block so the gauge line can now attach to it at the back of the block.

Posted Image

Edited by jdcrawler, May 24, 2012 - 02:20 PM.

  • KennyP said thank you

#12 KennyP OFFLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,523 Thanks
  • 39,742 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted May 24, 2012 - 04:04 PM

That is looking like it may fit yet. Have you measured between the firewall and the radiator support yet. Another idea! Can/will you adjust the valves before installation? Might be easier right now.
  • jdcrawler said thank you

#13 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

jdcrawler

    tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1639
  • 3,175 Thanks
  • 1,726 posts
  • Location: Madison, Indiana

Posted May 24, 2012 - 05:28 PM

That is looking like it may fit yet. Have you measured between the firewall and the radiator support yet. Another idea! Can/will you adjust the valves before installation? Might be easier right now.

It looks like I'll have about 38 inch between the fire wall and the Dodge radiator.
The engine measures about 37 inch to the front of the fan clutch.
My uncle had the valves addjusted last year.

#14 KennyP OFFLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,523 Thanks
  • 39,742 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted May 24, 2012 - 05:46 PM

That should work, Ray! Best of luck on this. Motor mounts are always fun to figure out. That truck is going to turn some heads when you get this done, for sure!
  • jdcrawler said thank you

#15 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

wvbuzzmaster

    Squeaky Wheel

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1792
  • 4,493 Thanks
  • 7,341 posts
  • Location: West Virginia

Posted May 24, 2012 - 07:06 PM

Great progress Ray, keep at it.
  • jdcrawler said thank you




Top