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Anyone Know Anything About Husky Chainsaws?

carburetor

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#1 maxedout OFFLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2012 - 11:52 AM

Does anyone know anything about Husqvarna Chainsaws? I have a 235E made around 08, I picked it up really cheap. It ran decent when I got it, but it had a few issues like a broken coil. It would run but because the coil was broken you had to hold the wire to ground to kill the saw. I replaced that and then moved on to the oil problem. It had a bad oil pump and would not oil the bar and chain, I fixed that and replaced the pump. It still ran ok but it was hard to start sometimes.

Next it had issues with the chain break, I read a lot of people had problems with the chain breaks, I got a new break. I found a modification for that problem, which basically was to shorten the main spring 3 turns, it seem the spring was too strong and caused the break to get over heated and melt the plastic housing. I fixed it and never any more problem and the break works as it should. It still ran fine but again it was hard to start and now it did not want to idle.

Well the not idle thing caused me to think bad fuel line or filter, so I replaced the filter. It ran but now it seem not to want to rev or idle but it would run.

It sit a while, I got sick spent some time in the hospital yet again and the saw sit for about 2 months.
I went to use it and it did not want to start if it did it would only run a minute or so and die.

Next I inspected the fuel lines and sure enough one was bad, it was the vent line or gas return to tank line. So I replaced it and it seemed to help but I still had no idle or rev but it would start now.

Next I replaced the plug, gapped it correctly and sure enough this seemed to help, it would run but no idle and if you barely touched the trigger it would rev.

Now I am thinking carburetor. Well this thing is a booger to get the carburetor off but at any rate, I did and found another bad line. The lines on this saw are not standard and the guy at the shop was amazed at the small size of the main fuel line. I've never seen on this small.

Well, while I had the carburetor off, I took it off and checked all the gaskets and all seemed good. I cleaned the carburetor and found some trash in the screen. I removed that and cleaned it.

While it was off, again I went in search of problems with these saws and found a modification to the main fuel line, using a 1/8 bit you drill out the hole in the gas tank to make for a larger fuel line. It seems over time the smaller line will shrink down and not allow the right fuel flow to the carburetor.

Sounds crazy I know and I am not sure about the 1/8 right now my memory fails but at any rate I replaced the line with original 5/32 line I think it was. It's a tad smaller than 1/8 you get at the parts store but larger than what was on the saw originally for the main fuel pick up.

OK now the saw runs perfect and it starts easier and for the first time since I have owned it fuel will go to the primer bulb as it is supposed too.

Here's the freak out, it will run perfect one time you start it and the next time you start it, well it goes back to not wanting to rev. It still will not idle right and you can't adjust it and make it idle.

Again again I am back to thinking it's a carburetor issue and trust me this is not the normal Carb, it's a Zama and the guy at the shop called it a two banger and said you trust me about 2 bangs with a hammer will solve the problems.

I am not sure if I should continue to try and figure it out or put it up at the flea market forsale and let it be someone else's problems. When the saw ran it was a good saw and it did ok for what I needed it. I just hate I haven't the knowledge to try and adjust the carburetor out. In fact I am not sure it can be adjusted as it's one of those kind EPA has messed with the L and H slots and you have to have a special tool to work on it.

At any rate, suppose it would be worth spending another $20 bucks for a kit to rebuild the carburetor or go for a new one at about $40 bucks.

Or junk it, and go get a cheap saw some where? I am at wits end with the thing, I have done everything by the book that should have got it running except rebuild the carburetor. The gaskets in the carburetor looked new and without any defects I could see. I inspected them closely and looked for pin holes or anything that would cause me troubles. I saw nothing...
The carb itself I soaked for hours and used air to clean out each port...

What should I do? I can't afford to take it to the shop they charge like $75 bucks to check one out...I can buy a used saw for that.

#2 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2012 - 12:13 PM

I don't know much about Husky saws. I know they make some basic saws and more serious ones that many people use and recommend. I'm not sure where your saw fits in their lineup. I'm running a Stihl myself.
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#3 bh115577 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2012 - 12:59 PM

See if this info helps. I have a manual for Zama carbs I can send if you need it. The file is fairly large so we will need to use email to handle the size of the file.

Attached Files


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#4 maxedout OFFLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2012 - 04:12 PM

I don't know much about Husky saws. I know they make some basic saws and more serious ones that many people use and recommend. I'm not sure where your saw fits in their lineup. I'm running a Stihl myself.


A 235E is low end Husky and like a box store saw, you can buy one off Ebay for like $130 bucks brand new. It worked ok for my use all I did was trim limbs now and then with it.

I have a 1984, Husky 44 Rancher I'd put up against any Saw cutting firewood. Yea it's old but when that saw was made, it was made by the Swiss in a Swiss factory. It has a Chrome Lined Head and it was built like a tank. It's a small saw and light weight even for it's age it's still light weight.

The crank case seal is bad, it causes it not to idle but normally when I sit it down I am done as done can be. The only reason I have kept that saw, it was the year my wife and I got married. I've kept it and one of these days, my friend will who knows the Ranchers like the back of his hand says he will replace the crank case seals. It leaks bar oil a little but that saw is tuff to beat and it is so well made. I've seen hundreds of videos on YT about that saw. Awesome saw!

#5 maxedout OFFLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2012 - 04:13 PM

See if this info helps. I have a manual for Zama carbs I can send if you need it. The file is fairly large so we will need to use email to handle the size of the file.


Any thing would help, if you want to email me the file, I would appreciate it, maxblith2gmail.com is fine. If that one fails let me know I will send you another one. Remove the 2 of course and replace with at's key. Spam, Robots and stuff is why I did it that way or changed it.

Edited by maxedout, May 21, 2012 - 04:21 PM.


#6 maxedout OFFLINE  

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Posted May 21, 2012 - 04:19 PM

That doc had some information concerning tank venting. I wonder about that, when you put gas in this thing, you have to really watch it. When you take the lid off sometimes it will spew gas because the tank has so much pressure. I wonder where or how to clean that tank vent? Hadn't thought about that, but surely it shouldn't have to much tank pressure on it. I wonder if it's in the lid like on a GT? Or someplace else?

#7 bh115577 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 22, 2012 - 05:37 AM

File is on the way.

Most of the time there will be an extra line coming out of the tank with a piece of plastic in the end. That is the tank vent and it needs to breath a bit to keep from pressurizing.

Go here: http://www.husqvarna...pes=O,I&brands= and down load your manuals.
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