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Tires That Won't Come Off The Rim


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#31 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 22, 2012 - 06:24 AM

Kenny, I battled the 6" rims on my MF8 for a long time before just giving up and cutting off the tire. I find the new tires are difficult to install as well. I ended up clamping a piece of 3/4 round in a vice and mounting the wheel on it. I put a shaft collar on as well to keep it from moving up the shaft. That made it a lot easier to install them. It was sort of the beginnings of a crude tire changer. Wheel barrow tires can be a pain as well. I love those new solid tires that can never go flat!

The little wheel holder I built does a good job of holding the wheel from turning while you remove/replace the tire. I made the pipe pieces that essentially clamp the wheel, so you don't have to take the bearings out. Plus it is at a good working height. I even cut some rubber pieces to protect the paint.
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#32 maxedout OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2012 - 08:11 AM

Boy this can be a pain getting a tire unstuck from a rim, rusted. You got to wonder why rubber rusts!

Well the key thing I have learned is not to get in to a hurry. That's the key thing, most important because one you can get hurt or too mess up a good wheel or bearings. I can't imagine throwing a rim into fire, just seems to me it would weaken or warp the rim.

I working on the same tire for a couple of days and normally when when sticks putting a new one on is about as bad. In my first attempts I use Mineral Oil mixed with some Kerosene. Pour in the oil and then the kerosene, let it sit in the hot sun light for at least 2 hours. On something black.

Next I use a tire tool to go all around the rim and a pellet hammer to beat the tool down into the rim of the tire. I try not to injure the wheel. Again back to oil and kerosene...soak and whiles and repeat the beat down..

I have a small flat blade I then try to wedge down in between the tire and wheel. If I can get lucky and get it wedged into place normally the rest comes down pretty easy.

Now if worst comes to worse after these attempts, I just use a cut off grinder and cut the tire down to the rim. Cut enough back I can get a dremel tool into and use a smaller cut off whell and cut the bead bands from the tire, and then it normally comes off. I have in the past had to cut the tire in 3 sections because they are rusted on so badly.

The fact remains it just takes some time but if you are in a hurry a good cutting off wheel on a good angle grinder is about as quick and easy way I know...then wire brush and pain the wheel inside and that is that.

In most case's that I have seen..the reason for this to start with is Fix a Flat or where folks add in some kind of liquid to weight down the tires.

First off, I never use any liquid in a tubeless tire, never, I do not care what the liquid is. If I am going to use liquid in a tractor tire it goes to the shop and gets an inner tube. Most tire shops will tell you not to put liquids into a tubeless tire or at least around here they do.

Fix a Flat might work to keep air in but it also rusts the rims and in some cases really bad...

For the cost of a can of fix a flat you can get a good tube and most GT tires now a days are so thin to start with when new a tube is a good idea.

I bought 2 new, brand new tires for my LX 172 tractor, front ones. I mowed a couple of times, and over at my moms she has roses, they're wild roses, white in color and buddies they have some thorns on them to start with...But you can not imagine something like a tiny rose thorn causing a tire to go flat.

Well, it happened! One tiny thin little thorn caused a brand new tire to go flat in a matter of minutes. I would have never believed it...

My tire guy being a nice guy he is replaced the tire and we put in an inner tube. He said that was the freak of luck if he had ever saw it. But he was certainly nice about it and he even took the blame which I was like no ways was that your fault you did not make the tire. He said yea but I sold it..

I guess to main thing is just be taking your time and something to keep in mind..



IF you have used Fix A Flat on a Tire please beware that crap can explode when heat is applied to it. Keep that in mind because it can blow your noggin off!

#33 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2012 - 04:55 PM

Thanks for the great ideas guys! It amazes me sometimes all the DIFFERENT ways we can figure out to do the same thing!

As a follow-up to using my mini-tire changer, I R&R'ed the back tires (23x9.5x12 turf tires). The tires were on keyed shaft rims (came off a Husky or Simplicity mower I picked up), and needed to go on 5 lug Ford rims.

First off, the mini-tool broke the beads on the back tires with no problem at all!!! I have done around a dozen smaller tires before this on the changer and the bigger ones are much easier to break loose.

Now mounting the tires is another story!!! The small tool DOES work, but it takes a fair amount of effort. The spoon is not long enough to give you the leverage you need for the bigger rims. Lube is CRITICAL with the bigger tires. I found it was easier to respray lube on the last 1/3 of the rim before it popped on. The design is good, and with a little practice it's pretty straight forward, but I would get the bigger setup or modify the spoon if I were going to do many of the bigger tires.
For the very occasional use I will normally put the thing to, it was a good buy, and has held up well - so far. I would add it to the "Harbor Freight KEEPER tool list" with the qualifier that is better on small tires.
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#34 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2012 - 11:05 PM

Thought I would add a couple pictures of my "heavy bead breaker" - Has worked on most everything (even truck tires) EXCEPT for the Ford's little front tire....

As excavators go, it's not real big - about 2 ton, but it beats usin a shovel......

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