Rubber, Plastic And Fiberglass Protectionprotection
Posted May 17, 2012 - 11:48 AM
I used in the past WD40 to protect some rubber but learned really fast that was a no no!
A lot of products are on the market for protection, some I think are just rip off's but some are good.
A good wax for painted surfaces one of my favorites is ICE, you can use that on plastic, rubber, metal and fiberglass.
Another good cleaner pre-wax is a 3M product called Glaze on Pink, Or Fill In Pink, use it before waxing and then a thin coat of ICE and dudes you got a shine like you wouldn't believe.
Vinegar is a great cleaner for plastic and works well, just need to use a protector afterwards.
For faded out plastic, if it's fade really bad, a HEAT GUN but you got to be very careful not to over heat, go slow and keep moving over it, let it cool off, then go over it until you get it back as far as it will come. Then use a good very fine grained wet sand paper and go finer and finer. Then use a good course compound, then a finer compound and then a coat of Glaze on Pink, then I coat of Ice.
You can watch some video's on restoring plastic on YT. Just search for restoring faded ATV plastic and watch magic happen with a heat gun. You might find some using a razor blade but that's just too much work and causes the plastic to thin.
Of course you can always paint the plastic and you can find some good made for plastic paints. But several steps are involved to get the finish back right. It's well worth the trouble!
Cracked Plastic can be welded using a heat gun and the right welding rods, You have to know what plastic you are dealing with John Deere plastic is worthless imo, and it breaks if you look at it wrong. It's also hard as hell to work with but you can get weld sticks made for the plastic, just look for the plastic code on the hoods or other parts, they should be marked.
Plastic Weld Epoxy made for plastic only will also work in a rush but you need the weld sticks to make it last.
I am currently working on a Hood for a LX172, I used plastic weld sticks, got off Ebay, a heat gun and epoxy. After I get Frankenstein back together, I will drill holes into the hood and use a fiberglass cloth covered with fiberglass. The holes are to allow the fiberglass to go into for extra hold. JD hoods and fiberglass doesn't bond well so you need ruff surface, holes and a lot of practice.
I could of course just buy another hood for about $300 bucks or better and personally a junkie made piece of plastic new or not isn't worth $300 bucks. It would be different if they used a good long lasting tuff made plastic but honestly MTD makes a better plastic hood than Deere. JD should really go back to fiberglass one because it can be repaired and too because it lasts and isn't nearly as bothered by sun light.
OK what are some products you use for rubber protection, plastic and metal and fiberglass!
Boat products, are great for fiberglass cleaners and polishes!
Posted May 17, 2012 - 08:00 PM
He does have to apply it a little more frequently, but his stuff was almost free from weathering and it looked really nice. Smelled different in the car, but it looked new.
Posted May 17, 2012 - 08:49 PM
Posted May 18, 2012 - 12:40 AM
- kwj427 said thank you
Posted January 01, 2013 - 08:55 AM
where can you buy the fuser t21?
Posted January 01, 2013 - 09:52 AM
where can you buy the fuser t21?
I can get it at the paint supply store. Just did a search and came up with a place called Auto Body Toolmart. Their prices are pretty reasonable compared to the local pricing I get. If you do get some fusor just make sure you get extra nozzles.
- KennyP said thank you
Posted January 03, 2013 - 12:14 PM
I was going to try that baby oil thing once.
Danged if I understand what the fuss was all about, but that woman carrying the kid got right nasty when I asked her to just sit him in the hydraulic press so I could squeeze some out of the noisy monster.