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Briggs 23fb Carb Specs And Parts


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#31 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 03:47 PM

/Thanks for the info on the seat. How do I check if its good?

When you have the carb apart (top off) Screw the tube back into the bottom, then install the high speed needle. then just fill the bowl with liquid ( gas, kerosene or water) now just check to be sure nothing is leaking around the stem of the tube. When you pour the liquid in pour it slow so it doesn't get all over the carb, or it will be hard to see the leak. See the hole in the bottom of the carb (on the left) that is why you need to install the needle, that is what supplies the fuel to the tube. PICT1231.JPG

#32 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 04:12 PM

Ok I will test it for leaks. I wouldn't have thought of that other wise.

#33 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 08:09 PM

Well, the guy who helped me yesterday, and was supposed to help today never showed up. I went to switch the tube and noticed that the on that was in it was the E not the G. I put the G in it and tested the seat, no leaks from the seat. I put it back on and tried to start it, the best I got was about 4 seconds of running. Other then that it only ran one other time and that was just for a second or two.

#34 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 08:53 PM

On the bottom, there is a bolt that holds the air filter on, that leaks gas. The carb on my Tiger does that, so me dad and I put a fuel shut off on it then instead of pushing the button to shut it off, you would turn the fuel line off and let it run out of gas. Is this a common problem? Can it be fixed? Here is a pic.

Posted Image

#35 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 09:01 PM

Let's see, hmmmm. Are you getting a good amount of fuel going to the carb?

If you are getting the fuel, Are your carb and intake gaskets in good shape?

If all the above is good, You might want to be sure you have good compression.

You said you cleaned the valve seats a little. Are they pitted?

If you wind up pulling the head back off. I would put it at TDC (valves both closed) and spray WD-40 on the top of the valves (to form a puddle) Then see if the WD-40 stays at the same level or to see if it leaks by the seat.

#36 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 09:02 PM

On the bottom, there is a bolt that holds the air filter on, that leaks gas. The carb on my Tiger does that, so me dad and I put a fuel shut off on it then instead of pushing the button to shut it off, you would turn the fuel line off and let it run out of gas. Is this a common problem? Can it be fixed? Here is a pic.

Posted Image

That is were gas will leak if that tube is not seating properly or the float is either not shutting or it needs to be adjusted

#37 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 09:06 PM

The gas will leak out of there also if you choke it to much and flood the engine.

#38 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 09:07 PM

5It is getting gas to the carb. The gaskets are new, I had some new ones, so on they went. The compression is just over 50. The valve seats are not pitted, just a little dirty. If I do happen to take the head off, I will try that.

#39 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 09:10 PM

do you have both needle valves set at 1 and 1/2 turns open?

Are you trying to start this in different throttle positions?

#40 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 09:24 PM

Yes, the needles are set at 1 to 1 1/2 turn out. I am trying different throttle positions.

I know that it flooded. I took the plug out a few times to dry it off. One time it got badly flooded and that's when I decided to stop for the day and then I took the pic. It does not leak all the time, only after I have pulled it a few times.

#41 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 09:34 PM

Ok, If you are getting that much gas to the cylinder. It might be a weak spark or to much choke. on my 8hp's I put choke on, throttle about 1/2. I pull it one time, (it wants to fire off but not quiet) I then take the choke and open it all the way. Next pull they fire right off, and stay running.

#42 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 09:38 PM

I think its getting to much gas in the cylinder. I guess it could be both though. I will see if I have another plug that's the same and give it a try.

#43 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 09:44 PM

I just know some of these engines are finicky, If you don't find the right sequence to start some of these old ones, you can pull all day and not get it running.

I had to show my dad this trick on his log splitter. He would leave the choke on. and and pull till he couldn't pull anymore. He thought he had to choke till it ran. So he called me, I went over and did my way, and it starts on the second pull every time.( I added a starter for him just in case he forgets though lol)
My old Wisconsin is the same way. if you flood it, your done.

#44 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2012 - 03:19 PM

I made an adapter for my drill, hooked it up and gave it a try. It ran for a few seconds after about 5 seconds of cranking. Then I tried a few more times and it flooded, called it quits there.

#45 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2012 - 06:01 PM

I tried again today. It ran a few times for a few seconds but Im not getting anywhere. I can't hold the drill and mess with everything else at the same time. I will find somebody more reliable to help me.




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