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Lgt 165 Lift Bar?


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#31 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2012 - 06:51 AM

I need to get this up on concrete. I think the angle on the sleeve hitch is off just a bit, letting it tilt forward. That would keep it from cutting in like I want. I may have to replace the tube for the pin on the Ford hitch also. It's awful close to a 3/4" pin fitting it, very sloppy with the 5/8" in it.
Brian, I was posting this when you chimed in. Best fix would be a 3-point. But that won't be soon. It would be simpler to fix the sleeve hitch to work right. The hitch on the BB is very sloppy. I had to add a piece of 1/4" steel to the inside to get the bolts to tighten, plus it's at least 1/4" too tall. And I never checked the height compared to the Ford hitch. Just hooked it up. So I need to take it off and see what I can do. May be time to widen it also.

#32 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2012 - 09:47 AM

I went out this morning and looked things over. And yes, it is lower in front than the rear. When I bent the Ford's sleeve hitch and straightened it, I left the pin tube angled to cause some of this. Plus the Box Blade hitch is made from thin material and bent some on the top piece, just enough to add to the problem. Time to build a new one for it. I have some 3"X4"X 1/4" thick that I can make one from. But I need a .640" drill bit to make the hole thru it. Might be cheaper to buy a new one than buying the drill bit. Found one for $18.

#33 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2012 - 06:54 AM

Kenny , get that drawing program going and draw up an adjustable sleeve hitch ! Sleeves are inheirently poorly ajustable, thus your troubles. Make it ajustable at the attachment and it will work for just that, but make it ajustable at the sleeve hitch..... and it will work for anything you can attach to it ;)
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#34 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2012 - 07:06 AM

Guys, heres a pic of an adjustable sleeve hitch from a 110. Have a look at this and see if it provides any ideas.
JD110 adjustable sleeve hitch.png
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#35 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2012 - 07:43 AM

I'm thinking on this whole situation. I need to put the Ford at the edge of the curb out front (with the BB hanging out) and see how far down the blade goes 'as is'. Plus, it will help me see what angle it is setting at better. When I go to widen it, I can changed the cutting angle some if needed, not sure what would be optimal. Making it heavier would help, along with spacing it away from the tractor another 1"-2". If the rain holds off, I might get to do that today.
I did add an extra set of holes to the teeth so I won't be digging quite so deep. 3" was just a bit too much in hard ground. Plus, I couldn't raise it high enough for them to clear the ground completely. Spacing it back further will give more up/down travel.

#36 poncho62 ONLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2012 - 08:46 AM

I found that my tiller wouldnt go as deep as I thought it should....I welded another slotted piece of steel onto my bar, so it would extend an inch or so further......I make a couple of passes now, one at the regular height and one lower....does a real nice job
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#37 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2012 - 11:02 AM

I got lazy and didn't take it to the curb. Made some ramps and backed it on there. Looks like it will goo about 3+" below grade and the attack angle looks better since I shimmed the sleeve hitch with those two washers. But I moved them to the top of the pin tube, which has the blade sitting higher by about 1/4". Here's some pics to look at. The first shows how the tooth sits with the new hole I drilled. Hard to pick out the cutting edge, but it's about 3/4" below the side piece.
Image001.jpg Image002.jpg
Image003.jpg Image004.jpg
Image005.jpg Image006.jpg

#38 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2012 - 11:15 AM

That should work. Because the blade is so close to the tractor the slack in the pin will not result in as much movement at the blade as it would with the Brinly which is about 24" from the hitch. You also won't have as much lift height. You'll have to give it a try and see how it works.

#39 steroblan OFFLINE  

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Posted May 25, 2012 - 11:12 PM

Poncho is correct. I had this same problem. It was caused by the implement when I hit a bump. Add weight to get the blade to work. It should always be able to float. That's why they slot the bar.

#40 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2012 - 05:27 AM

Poncho is correct. I had this same problem. It was caused by the implement when I hit a bump. Add weight to get the blade to work. It should always be able to float. That's why they slot the bar.

I usually have 75 lbs added on it when I use it. I think I bent it backing into the pile trying to knock it down. That's the only way I can figure, anyway. I have been trying to make a holder to add my cast iron window weights, I have well over 100 lbs of them. Just have to take them off to hook/unhook the blade.




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