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Lgt 165 Lift Bar?


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#16 Russ OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2012 - 05:40 AM

Once things are bent then its hard to keep em from bending that for sure,,

#17 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2012 - 05:46 AM

Maybe the bar has gotten weak from bending so many times to start with . I'm sure a new heavier one will take care of your problem but as Keith pointed out you don't want to bend something on the hitch , maybe using grade 2 or 5 bolts for where the bar attaches to the hitch will give you a "shear pin" so to speak , Al

#18 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2012 - 06:21 AM

I'm not trying to lift the back wheels, just want it to cut some and not just float over. I may have to take the cutting edge out to the street and drag it a bit to sharpen it. I also need to put another set of holes in the teeth so they aren't so deep (about 2 1/2" right now). That will help loosen the dirt. May need to add some more weight to the BB. It is pretty light by itself.

#19 Chuck_050382 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2012 - 06:44 AM

Kenny,

Right now my hitch doesn't float and it is a pain when trying to disk because as I cross furrows it takes weight off the rear tires. Also it doesn't let the disk cut enough, no mater how much weight I put on the disk. It is handy if I need to work on the chains or change a back tire though because with a large block of wood the tractor can jack itself up.

I have been wanting to make a new lift bar from 2 top links so I can adjust the length and then where the 2 connect will act like a float, I haven't really looked to see how that will work or not, but it is what I have thought of so far.

#20 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2012 - 07:13 AM

This thing bends before lifting the tractor.

#21 Russ OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2012 - 09:06 AM

Hey Kenny,, I don't mean to cut in but when I look at the pic of where the flat metal is bent at,,,, It looks like even if it wasn't bent that it is in an angle an not striaght,,,, So that will make it bend on ya also,, So if it can't be striaght from point to point then I feel a heavyer metal would fix the prob an do away with the soft metal,,,, Or use a L shape metal an should work out great,,,, Hope this helps,,,,,,
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#22 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2012 - 10:37 AM

I just read this and was going to ask if the tractor pushes on that bar or pulls when it lifts. Typically it would pull and the strength of the bar would not be an issue. It does sound like you are hitting the stop and bending it. Adjusting the top link to get the blade edge to dig in or adding more weight should have helped. If that won't work maybe you need to add some scarifiers to the blade. Do you have enough downwards hitch travel to get the blade below grade? You wouldn't have to go as big as 2" wide on the added metal to make a T. Even adding a 1" wide piece to the centre 2/3 of the bar would make it much stronger. That's an easy fix to the bar bending but why it's bending may be something that needs explaining or something else may bend.

#23 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2012 - 01:07 PM

Russ, thanks for your comment.
Brian. This is a sleeve hitch, so not top link adjustment. I haven't checked travel as yet. right now with the teeth dropped to the first hole, I can just barely clear the ground with the hitch up. I need to change that. New holes to drill.

#24 Bill2 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2012 - 10:28 PM

everyone has the right idea about making the flat piece stronger my ? is when letting the back blade down and then start to pull it does it go down in the front if not then there's your problem mine was doing the same thing and i put some weight where the hitch part is and now i can move the dirt really well, mine was pulling good but was raising where the hitch was and didn't cut into the dirt it would ride over top of it just thought that would help, also if you want you disc to cut better adjust them to angle down in the front so cut in ,not ride on top like your back blade just my 2 cents hope it helps

#25 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2012 - 04:26 AM

Once the bar is straightened and I get more holes drilled in the teeth so they aren't going so deep, I think I'll see about adding more weight to it. I need to weight up what lead I have left and see if I can find a way to incorporate that into the mix. I have about 75 lbs of railroad rail on it right now. Had some other things going on, so haven't gotten back to it yet.

#26 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2012 - 06:29 AM

That should be plenty of weight Kenny. With all that weight that far from the hitch you are putting a lot of stress on the hitch. I think sleeve hitch blades are designed so that when the mast is parallel to the ground the sides are also level and the blade will dig in properly. If your tractor hitch is the wrong height and the mast slopes up or down from the tractor the blade angle will change and make the blade less or more aggressive. When the surface is hard you need the scarifiers to break it up. If you think of a road grader, they use scarifiers when the surface is compacted even though they weigh many tons. I think some scarifiers may be the answer on hard surfaces rather than adding more weight.

#27 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2012 - 07:18 AM

Thinking about everyone's comments here, Brian, I am wondering if the hitch is too high up on the box blade. That may be the whole problem. I'll get a look/see today. It may be set up for a different height sleeve hitch and not right for the Ford.

#28 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2012 - 05:06 PM

Got a closer look into things today! Sleeve hitch pin hole is LARGE for both the tractor and BB. Nearly a 3/4". Also, the sleeve hitch on the BB is about 3/8" too tall. This equates in about 2-3" slop at the cutting edge. No wonder I had to use so much down force. I took a lot of the slop out, straightened the lift bar, and was able to make it work right.
Image003.jpg Image004.jpg
I put in 2 of the thick washers I just got. Took a lot of slop out. Tightened up the bolts and got more out.

#29 Russ OFFLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2012 - 06:29 AM

Glad ya got it worked out Kenny,,,
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#30 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 19, 2012 - 06:39 AM

When you have it setup at the right height the sides should be level to the ground. When I first put mine on the 314 the front edge of the sides was digging into the ground. It makes a big difference to get it at the right angle. If you have a lot of slack in the pin holes then if a 3/4 pin will fit through the tractor hitch you could consider enlarging the hole on the blade and using a 3/4 pin on it. I had a 3/4 pin and it wouldn't quite fit through mine. I found on the church job that the blade would end up tilting to one side because the pin would tilt and the adjustment bolts would then hold it in that tilted position. On that job there was often high ground on one side of the blade when dragging material away from the wall. This would put a twisting force on the hitch and it would tilt. Having a tighter pin would help that but in practice it wasn't really an issue. If the pin is too tight it may bend something else! The real solution is a 3pt hitch I guess!
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