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Pulled This out of the Woods Saturday


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#16 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2010 - 08:58 AM

The steering wheels are the worst on any tractor. I never have good luck getting them off, even after soaking in pb blaster for two weeks.

#17 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2010 - 10:27 AM

The steering wheels are the worst on any tractor. I never have good luck getting them off, even after soaking in pb blaster for two weeks.


Yep, sorry to say, the ONLY steering wheel I ever had to cut up to get it off was on a Sears (Roper built) SS16, and I've removed a bunch of steering wheels in my days.

#18 Larry Turner OFFLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2010 - 07:43 PM

The steering wheel...first day a good PB soaking, the second a good PB soaking and a good tapping with the hammer, the third day a good PB soaking and a good tapping with the hammer and now some continuous pressure with a puller. We'll see how it goes, still not a budge. I did get the c-clip and washer off...
Larry
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#19 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2010 - 08:55 PM

The steering wheels are the worst on any tractor. I never have good luck getting them off, even after soaking in pb blaster for two weeks.


:ditto:
Steering wheels and Me dont mix LOL

#20 Larry Turner OFFLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2010 - 03:32 PM

P1080423.jpg

After 5 days of PB soaking, hammering, and gear puller pressure, the steering wheel gave up and died. I thought it had moved on the shaft every so slightly and I cranked down on the puller a bit much, causing the failure seen in the attached pics. Now I do not have to be so careful and can cut, pry, kick, hammer, etc to get the pieces apart. I do need a steering wheel if anyone can help.
Larry

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#21 Larry Turner OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2010 - 08:56 PM

Another week of frustration with a pitman arm puller, PB Blaster, and a hammer. I can move the steering wheel fairly easy along the steering gear shaft until I get to the larger diameter at the top of the shaft.
So, I pushed the steering wheel much lower along the shaft and found something very interesting...the "snap ring groove" that I expected was not there. I do not see how it is possible for the steering wheel to be pulled off/over the shaft, see the pic. The shaft is about .755 diameter, the larger shaft diameter at the top is about .835 diameter, about 1/16 larger radially. There is virtually no clearance between the .755 shaft diamter and the steering wheel hub diameter. I'm going to look at the other end of the shaft in the morning.

I could really use a manual the shows what the shaft line looks like, any ideas?

Thanks,
Larry


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#22 Larry Turner OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2010 - 02:42 PM

The steering wheel is now off. The shaft end upset, shown in my previous post, was due to hammering and cranking down on the puller. I finally filed the upset down and with the use of a pitman arm puller was able to get the steering wheel off. That shaft is very soft, very easy to mangle. Now for the key.......then the dash, then the gas tank. The gas tank was my primary objective as it has significant amout of visible debris in it.
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  • chopperfreak2k1 said thank you

#23 chopperfreak2k1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2010 - 05:25 PM

well congrats for gettin that sucker off! you probably just helped me for when i do my resto's.

#24 M&M13 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2010 - 09:35 AM

Picked this one up Saturday, and like so many others the owner said "it ran good when I put it up several years ago". It didn't start but did turn over freely when jumped. I could use a manual if someone has one and could post it here. Although the tractor does not show a lot of rust, It's going to need disassembly and some work. It is a heavy thing though.....anybody know how I can determine the year of manufacture?
Thanks,
Larry
[ATTACH=CONFIG]3123[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]3122[/ATTACH]


Welcome larry , Now that looks like thats gonna be a fun project & I agree ,Ive said it b4 i think these are one of the heaviest brands made! Glad you got that off! That was making me tired lol!

#25 Larry Turner OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2010 - 07:25 PM

Update on this project. I've got the carb rebuilt, I've put together a small rust removal electrolysis "bucket", taken off linkages, covers, and minor structure, de-rusted them and put a good coat of primer. The tractor is not getting the attention it deserves, I'm trying to make room in the garage.
Thanks to all that posted info on the electrolysis (particularly Olcowhand), it really works great. I have only used the baking soda, not the washing soda. Baking soda works fine.....one of the fasteners in the attached pic shows the black oxcide you get after rust removal, the other is the same size fastener from the same bolt pattern, just not de-rusted.
Larry

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#26 Stuck Valve OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2010 - 08:42 PM

Looks like your making good progress!!!

#27 dstaggs OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2010 - 10:13 PM

Welcome to GTtalk. We love them old sears check out the sears group.

#28 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2010 - 06:30 AM

Stuck Valve:welcometogttalk:

#29 grand OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2010 - 07:33 AM

Looks like you are making progress and doing a good job on the restore. Keep us updated and thanks for the pics. :bounce:

#30 JohnC OFFLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2012 - 07:46 PM

Larry
Look on one of the flat spots of the blower cover.It should have an model #.Mine is 143-582022.The 8 indicates the year.This looks just like mine.In the case of it being an 8,it is a 1968 model.




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