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Starting An Engine, With Another Engine


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#31 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2012 - 12:01 PM

I tried that, it didn't work. It seemed like it was running pretty good but then I shut off the PTO on the WH and it stalled, I guess it was partially running on the other engine. I will see if I can get somebody else to look at it, somebody who knows what they are doing.

#32 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2012 - 05:01 PM

I have somebody coming tomorrow to help with the speedex. He is coming after work, but I dont know when he gets off of work. Lol.

#33 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2012 - 02:01 PM

I have more than one Diesel engine start and run backwards, gas engines won't do it, but Diesels will. You don't want to run them very long like that because the oil pump is spinning backwards as well.


Piston port two strokes will do that too. I remember being at an Observed Trials and a guy on a Bultaco Sherpa motorcycle had it burp/revese rotation and he came down the hill quicker than he went up it. And as far as the bicycle pedal thing, many of the Italian mopeds(PUCH for one) were started by pedaling them, and you could pedal if going up a steep hill.

#34 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2012 - 04:18 PM

True I hadn't thought of that.

#35 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2012 - 07:07 PM

Today the guy came and helped me. First, he thought the timing might be off and a key might be sheered so we pulled the flywheel and found that everything was fine. We took off the carb and cleaned it better, there was one hole that had some grime in it. We changed a of the parts in the carb and put it back on. Since its been raining all day we figured if we tried to hook it to the WH the belt would just slip on the wet pulleys so, we pulled it with the rope. The best we got was about five seconds of running on full choke, it would not run without choke. When I got the engine (its not original to the tractor) it did not have a carburetor on it. I put one on it but when we were messing with other parts we noticed some of the internal parts were different and I dont know if the one that is on the engine now has the right parts. It's a Briggs 23FB, dpes anybody know the carb specs and parts it needs? Or where I could find out what it needs? I will post another thread asking for specs to get the question out in the open where more people will see it.

EDIT: He is coming back tomorrow to see if we can get it going. I told him I would try to find out the parts the carb needs.

Edited by Ryan313, May 14, 2012 - 07:10 PM.


#36 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2012 - 07:18 PM

Have you checked the valve adjustment? If the valves are worn, they may be held slightly open, it will also throw the timing off a bit. I have seen Briggs start very hard when they are too tight.

#37 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2012 - 07:47 PM

What's the complete model number of the engine? Or is that the model number that's stamped into the carb itself?

#38 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2012 - 08:22 PM

I have not checked the valve clearances, I have had the head off and cleaned the valve seats the best I could without removing them. If we can't get it going, I will check that.

#39 DougT OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2012 - 09:53 PM

Ryan, have you downloaded this manual? http://gardentractor...ines-1919-1981/

I think it should have the info you will need on this engine. If not, I'll put up a manual that will. There is no key in the flywheel on this model. There is however a means to adjust timing. The engine also has a method of timing advance. These engines were known for bad coils. Does your spark jump at least a 1/4 inch gap outside the cylinder? It should to be strong enough to run. On these models, the suffix F means that it has a flanged output side with holes for a bell housing. The B means that it has a ball bearing on the output side instead of a plain bushing.

#40 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2012 - 10:01 PM

I havnt downloaded that manual, I will tomorrow. What do you mean by 1/4 gap outside the cylinder? Thanks for the info on the model number!

#41 DougT OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2012 - 07:01 AM

What do you mean by 1/4 gap outside the cylinder?


It takes a lot more voltage to fire a plug against compression than it does to fire the plug laying outside the cylinder. By making the gap wider, you can be sure you have enough voltage to fire the plug against compression. If the spark will jump 3/16 to 1/4 inch gap then it should be enough to fire. Also, have you tried a different spark plug?
  • Toolpartzman said thank you




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