Garden Tractor Forums banner

59 Chevy / Cummins -1

2K views 27 replies 11 participants last post by  jdcrawler 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
When I pulled the engine and transmission, the bottom of the flywheel housing and transmission was caked with grease so I knew that the rear engine seal or the front transmission seal ( or both ) were leaking.



So the first thing to do was to separate the transmission from the engine.



After pulling the flywheel ring gear, I could see the the rear engine seal had been leaking.



I've replace a lot of rear engine seals but this one is different from anything that I've ever worked on.
For one thing, it's huge ( 5 inch diameter ).
I've always used a light lubricant on rear seals to help them slide up over the crank.
However, this one is very insistent that it be installed completely dry.
I cleaned the area with lacquer thinner so the cleaner didn't leave any film and dried it off with paper towel.



Then the new seal was installed according to the instructions.



The new seal came with a plastic inner sleeve that fit on the end of the crank so the lip of the seal would slide onto the crank without any scuffing.
Then you use the steel ring and a plastic hammer and tap the seal in until the steel ring is seated all the way around.
This makes sure the seal is square in the bore and set to the right depth.



Last thing to do is bolt the flywheel back on.

 
See less See more
7
#3 ·
Dang, that's a big seal. How many ATM's did you rob to buy it? LOL Glad that is out of you way. I'm looking forward to when you get this beast installed and go for a drive.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jdcrawler
#4 ·
The reason the seal goes in dry is because after you start the engine the shaft will slightly burn the seal, and make it seal. If you lube the seal then the edge of the seal doesn't burn and it will leak. Cummins always recommends that their seals go in dry.
 
#7 ·
If you look at the old seal, you should see that the lip of the seal is a darker color. This is where the seal has burned and created the sealing surface. Cummins has used this type of seal for years.
 
#8 ·
That's interesting to know.
Hopefully, I got it clean and dry enough so it won't leak.
 
#9 ·
I worked as a truck/diesel/heavy equipment mechanic for 25 years. I've never had one of those B-Series motors apart, but I have rebuilt quite a few of the bigger N-Series motors. It would interesting to see how similar it is to the bigger motors. I know the injection system is different.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jdcrawler
#10 ·
Are you going to use the aftercooler as well?
 
  • Like
Reactions: jdcrawler
#11 ·
This has an aluminum cross over pipe from the turbo to the intake manafold so I'm not sure what the aftercooler is ?

Question ...
I'm using the aluminum radiator for the GM 6.2 and it has a cooler built into it to run the engine oil lines too.
Would it benefit me to run oil lines from the Cummins thru the radiator cooler ?
If so .. where do I tap into the block for an oil line out and a return oil line ?
 
#12 · (Edited by Moderator)
I just went back and looked, it doesn't have an aftercooler, if it did it would be mounted in front of the radiator. Also the motor should have an oil cooler on the side of the block, it looks like it has one behind the oil filter.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jdcrawler
#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thanks for the input.
I did an internet search for "Cummins oil cooler" so I could see what you're talking about so running additional oil lines up to the radiator probably wouldn't make any difference.

I'm using the stock Dodge transmission cooler in front the radiator and I'm putting an aluminum oil pan on the transmission to help cool the transmission fluid.

I'll just cap the holes in my radiator for the oil lines and transmission lines so nothing gets in them.
 
#14 ·
That round unit behind the turbo should be the cooler, it may have oil lines running to it. On the bigger motors it has the oil filter mounted to it as well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jdcrawler
#15 ·
Pulled the torque converter and put in a new front pump seal on the transmission.
Then I stood it up and pulled the pan off to change the filter.
The old filter doesn't look bad at all with just a small sludge spot on it.
I couldn't see any metal grit in the pan so I was happy with that.



I'm using a deeper aluminum pan so the new filter has a spacer so it sits down farther into the pan.



The new pan is all bolted in place.



The transmission is then mounted back up to the engine.



The last thing left to do is to fix that dowel pin inside the timing gear case.
I'll probably start on that tomorrow.
 
#16 ·
It wouldn't hurt to adjust the bands since you're in there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jdcrawler
#17 · (Edited by Moderator)
This Cummins engine has a pair of vacuum pumps on it to power the vacuum power brake booster that was on the Dodge truck.
My truck has a hydro power brake booster that is run off the power steering pump so I won't need the vacuum for that.
I'm going to keep the vacuum pump though because I eventually want to put a cruse control unit on the truck and they are powered with a vacuum diafram.



Once I get a cruse control unit, it is going to need a vacuum reserve tank to hold a steady vacuum so I decided to go ahead and make that now.
I'm using an old propane torch tank like this to make the reserve tank out of.



The top of the tank has two valve ports in it.



I drilled both of these out and tapped them with a 1/8 NPT thread for hose fittings.
The other end has a thin steel cap on it so it has a flat bottom.
I removed the steel cap so the end is rounded and looks more like a vacuum reserve tank and not a torch tank.
I'll make up the mount for this tank once I figure out where it is going to be mounted.



The dowel pin problem has been corrected and the engine is all masked off and primed.



Here is the final engine color.
Once the paint is dry, the valve covers will be removed and painted Red.

 
#20 ·
Ray, Maybe you'll be bringing the truck to Buckley and Boyne Falls this year?
Bill
Buckley for sure, Bill.
I don't think I'll be at Walloon Lake though.
 
#21 ·
Thanks for the torch tank idea Ray! Believe it or not, my 97 F250 has NO air reserve tank! Every time I go up a grade where the throttle opens, my vacuum drops off & my AC defaults to defrost. Sometimes I lose cruise control also. I've been aiming to go to the salvage yard to find a reserve tank, but I like your idea. I have an empty tank just like that one too! I can't believe how there wasn't a tank on my truck, but I've traced ALL the vacuum lines, and there isn't one.
 
#22 ·
The engine is ready to go in.
All I have to do now is wait for the engine to sell that is currently in the Chevy and then I can take it out and start putting the Cummins in.





 
  • Like
Reactions: superspeedex
#26 ·
What did you use as a degreaser to clean up the engine?
I use Purple Power for degreasing things like this.
Don't use this degreaser on anything with good paint because it will dull the paint.
 
#28 · (Edited by Moderator)
Pulled the truck into the garage this morning to get started on it.
I realize this photo doesn't show that much but this is the end result of about 5 hours of work.
The engine and transmission are all unhooked and ready to lift out.
First thing tomorrow, I'll bring the forklift in and take this engine out.

 
  • Like
Reactions: KennyP
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top