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1256 Stopped Running


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#16 Bigdaddydon OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2012 - 08:06 AM

did youhave the hood up when you was washing it off if you did it could have got in the switch and shorted the ground 2 weeks ago mine stoped after checking everything else i had to replace switch it solved the problem . inChrist


I did lift the hood to hose off the underside of the hood. I have check the continuity of the switch in all key positions and it seem to test Ok but it would be the easiest and cheapest thing to switch out so i will try that. If the switch fixes it I will drop a kill switch in line to protect myself in the future.

#17 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2012 - 08:57 AM

Brian is right, when your ran the jumper you eliminated the rest of the wiring circuit so the problem is with either the stator, coil or ignition module. If you have another coil try it first.

#18 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2012 - 09:12 AM

If I may offer some advice. In snowmobiles i get this problem all the time. I always start by putting in a brand new spark plug if no spark I replace the coil still no spark get to the stator. Most small engine shop can test it out for you and tell you what is fried( if anything)

I avoid replacing other things first as the plug and coil are cheapest, as for the stator the parts are affordable but its a lot of work to get to. But noticed that I said a brand new spark plug, not one you know should work but a fresh one. Avoiding crap like NGK and other cheaper ones that can be faulty right out of the box. I trust bosch, but thats me.

When you got new plug and new coil BEFORE getting the stator out I would check continuity between battery pos+ wire(disconnected) and frame to rule out any short. Also would test continuity on pins in ignition key switch but i never had one quit on me like that. Ive had a couple engines dropping dead while iddleing but I wont scare you with those stories...yet :p

Edited by hatedge, May 09, 2012 - 09:18 AM.


#19 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2012 - 11:58 AM

Maybe this will help?

http://gardentractor...state-ignition/
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#20 Bigdaddydon OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2012 - 06:15 PM

Thanks Bruce,

I have not had any time to mess with the 1256. The last thing I did was remove the coil from the 1256 and mount it on the 1050. I believe they use the same coil, the only difference is the 1256 gets power from the stator and the 1050 gets power from the battery. I DID connect it to the 1050 the correct way with the + getting power from the switch.
.
When I tried to start it I would get no spark. So I figured the coil was bad. When I went to remove the coil it was to hot to touch and appeared to be boiling from the top seal. If it wasn't bad before it is now. It also burnt up the points on the 1050. I replaced the points and put the old coil on the 1050 and it started right up.

So the questions are,
Why did the coil get so hot?
Would this have caused the stator to be fried?
Where can I find a stator or am I going to have to change the ignition system?
I have not done the simple test from the post Bruce gave me but maybe I can soon.

Sorry to be so long winded.

#21 Bigdaddydon OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2012 - 07:20 PM

It looks like the coil is different according to a parts list. Does anybody knoew what coil will work with this system?

List shows
YF-37 for the TRA12D
YF-38-A For battery ignition.
Better late than never i suppose, although I possibly fried a good coil by mounting it on the 1050.

#22 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted May 24, 2012 - 06:54 AM

I will have to look into this....
I think I remember having read in one of my manuals that the ignition system on the 1256 had an internal resistor built into it, which is why your coil may have fried when you put it on the 1050 ( I could be completely wrong though) Its been a while since I have worked on a 1256

I'll pull out my manuals and see if I can find anything

#23 speedyg OFFLINE  

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Posted May 25, 2012 - 12:25 AM

Sorry to here your having trouble, and hope you and the team can get you running again !!!

#24 Bigdaddydon OFFLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2012 - 08:33 PM

Heres an update and a question.

I bought a one of Dale Colverts HET systems. It installed as easy as could be, I recommend it for anybody that looses the stator on there Electronic Ignition System. I tempoarily wired it with an old switch and pull started it. It works great and the TRA12D is running again.

Dale states you cannot use the same switch but does not have a recommendation.

Now the question, I need to switch this to get it back as close to original as I can. The switch is #1721409, I have been looking at wiring diagrams from engines with points and condensor so I can send power to the "+" side of the coil and still keep my starting and charging capabilities.. The 1054 has points and uses the same switch #1721409 the differences I see are;

1] on the 1256 the "y" terminal goes to the negative on the coil
on the 1054 the "y" terminal goes to the positive on the coil

2] on the 1256 the "x" goes to ground on the base of the regulator.
on the 1054 the "x" goes to the "L" on the regulator along with the yellow wire that goes to the "B" terminal on the switch.
This seems a little strange to me. Why are we sending power back to the switch from 2 directions?

I need to get 12v to the coil while starting and running. It looks like the switch will work accept for the question about the "x" and "L" terminals. Can anybody give me a lesson on electrical.

#25 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2012 - 06:17 PM

Heres an update and a question.

I bought a one of Dale Colverts HET systems. It installed as easy as could be, I recommend it for anybody that looses the stator on there Electronic Ignition System. I tempoarily wired it with an old switch and pull started it. It works great and the TRA12D is running again.

Dale states you cannot use the same switch but does not have a recommendation.

Now the question, I need to switch this to get it back as close to original as I can. The switch is #1721409, I have been looking at wiring diagrams from engines with points and condensor so I can send power to the "+" side of the coil and still keep my starting and charging capabilities.. The 1054 has points and uses the same switch #1721409 the differences I see are;

1] on the 1256 the "y" terminal goes to the negative on the coil
on the 1054 the "y" terminal goes to the positive on the coil

2] on the 1256 the "x" goes to ground on the base of the regulator.
on the 1054 the "x" goes to the "L" on the regulator along with the yellow wire that goes to the "B" terminal on the switch.
This seems a little strange to me. Why are we sending power back to the switch from 2 directions?

I need to get 12v to the coil while starting and running. It looks like the switch will work accept for the question about the "x" and "L" terminals. Can anybody give me a lesson on electrical.


Could it be because you send power to the lights and to the starter on different lines?
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#26 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2012 - 06:44 PM

Heres an update and a question.

I bought a one of Dale Colverts HET systems. It installed as easy as could be, I recommend it for anybody that looses the stator on there Electronic Ignition System. I tempoarily wired it with an old switch and pull started it. It works great and the TRA12D is running again. I am not familiar with this conversion.

Dale states you cannot use the same switch but does not have a recommendation. He should be able to explain why the original switch can not be used, and which polarity is required going to his conversion.

Now the question, I need to switch this to get it back as close to original as I can. The switch is #1721409, I have been looking at wiring diagrams from engines with points and condensor so I can send power to the "+" side of the coil and still keep my starting and charging capabilities.. The 1054 has points and uses the same switch #1721409 the differences I see are;

1] on the 1256 the "y" terminal goes to the negative on the coil
on the 1054 the "y" terminal goes to the positive on the coil

2] on the 1256 the "x" goes to ground on the base of the regulator.
on the 1054 the "x" goes to the "L" on the regulator along with the yellow wire that goes to the "B" terminal on the switch.
This seems a little strange to me. Why are we sending power back to the switch from 2 directions?
In the START and
RUN positions, the X and Y terminals are connected inside the switch. ....The X terminal sends 12v + from the L terminal of the regulator to the Y terminal which in turn feeds 12v + to the + terminal of the coil.


In the START position only, terminals B & S are connected inside the switch. .....12v + from the L terminal of the regulator goes to the B terminal which in turn goes to the S terminal to the start circuit (thru the safety switches to the starter solenoid).

I need to get 12v to the coil while starting and running. It looks like the switch will work accept for the question about the "x" and "L" terminals. Can anybody give me a lesson on electrical.


This friggin' autosave feature really screws up how the response appears while composing!

Edited by Bruce Dorsi, November 13, 2012 - 06:50 PM.

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#27 Bigdaddydon OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2012 - 08:46 AM

hatedge I think you are right for the 1054 which makes me think I can use the same switch.

So if I understand correctly,

The original ignition on the 1256 calls for the negative"-" side of the coil to go to ground while in the run position. This is through the X, Y connection. When the switch is turned off the connection is lost and the ignition looses ground and stops the engine.

The conversion calls for 12v going to the positive"+" side of the coil. So if I provide the 12v through the X,Y terminal to the conversion when the key is turned off the ignition will loose 12v and stop the engine.

I believe what I stated is right. Please correct me if I am wrong, but it looks like I can use the same switch only wire it like the 1054.

I can see why some would want to use a toggle switch to protect the conversion from stray voltage that may come through the switch. I will probably put one in under the hood so I do not need to drill my dash.
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#28 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2012 - 07:44 PM

My 1886 has a flick switch that needs to be turned off when the tractor is not running. Its because the power drains trought the instruments I think.Your logic seems right to me. But again My tractor is wired with coil positive through switch. If you stay with the wirring diagram provided for your tractor I dont see a reason it should'nt work. Switches are all prtty much the same Ive yet to see one that wouldnt accept the wirring needed for your set-up. Im no Guru when it comes to tractors but I rewire snowmobiles 2 or 3 times a year and I find that using my logic gives me less headaches than what the guys at the parts store tell me to do. Just double check the wirring to make sure you dont doubble the positive to your regulator or youll have a new problem on your hands! :P




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