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1256 Stopped Running


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#1 Bigdaddydon OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2012 - 12:40 PM

I had the 1256 out cutting grass. All went well about an acre of grass was cut on a 90 degree sunny day.

I left it idling while I washed it thouroughly before putting it away. I pulled it into the garage and again left it idling while I dried it off with a soft towel. While I was drying it off it just stopped running.

It is currently running off of the battery because my SG will not start it, but it starts with one pull from the cord.

Still had fuel in the tank and was running fine till it quit w/o any funny noise.

I charged the battery but at this time I have no spark.

I believe with the key on I shouild have 12 volts to the coil. I don NOT have voltage to the coil with the key on, this leads me to the key switch as my problem.

The battery shows 12.61 volts but when I test from good ground to the coil I get no voltage with the key on or off.

Am I looking in the right place?
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#2 8tyman8 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2012 - 12:50 PM

I had the 1256 out cutting grass. All went well about an acre of grass was cut on a 90 degree sunny day.

I left it idling while I washed it thouroughly before putting it away. I pulled it into the garage and again left it idling while I dried it off with a soft towel. While I was drying it off it just stopped running.

It is currently running off of the battery because my SG will not start it, but it starts with one pull from the cord.

Still had fuel in the tank and was running fine till it quit w/o any funny noise.

I charged the battery but at this time I have no spark.

I believe with the key on I shouild have 12 volts to the coil. I don NOT have voltage to the coil with the key on, this leads me to the key switch as my problem.

The battery shows 12.61 volts but when I test from good ground to the coil I get no voltage with the key on or off.

Am I looking in the right place?

check that your high tension lead is not grounding out also there is a few versions of that wis engine one has soild state ignition the next has a stator that makes its own power to power the grounded out coil and i think the third has points and battery igniton ..... i would check in the tubeframe service Manuel and check a wiring diagram make sure that every thing is hooked up correct
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#3 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2012 - 12:58 PM

I'd leave it sit for a day or so in the garage. Sounds like something got wet and it just needs to dry out. If after a day or so is still won't start then start T/S.
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#4 goodnews OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2012 - 01:06 PM

something got wet i had the same problem sat. waited about 2 hrs and it fired right up it was that green colored machine. inChrist

#5 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2012 - 05:32 PM

Hopefully it's just wet but if not are there any safety switches on the tractor that may have quit working. It seems odd that it stopped like that but strange things can happen when you get these old switches in the circuit. If it ends up being the ignition switch I have repaired mine and posted pictures here.
http://gardentractor...__fromsearch__1

#6 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2012 - 06:13 PM

I'm with the others in thinking you just got something wet and need to let it dry for a day. I have done the same thing on several occasions thinking that leaving them you til they dry will be fine, but have them short out to ground. Good Luck and I hope this is all it is.

#7 Bigdaddydon OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2012 - 07:08 PM

This all happened saturday afternoon so its been about 48 hours still no spark. I would think that any moisture would have dried by now.

I checked continuity through the safety switches they are working correctly. This TRA12D has breakerless ignition. The switch is wired to the negative side of the coil but according to the switch schematic it looks like it should still put 12v to the coil. Is that correct?

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#8 Bigdaddydon OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2012 - 07:52 PM

On the schematic attached above. Should the key switch in the RUN position not only have continuity between A to B and X to Y but also from A to X and Y

The SG does turn over in the START position it just does not have a belt to turn over the engine.

#9 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2012 - 09:21 PM

It looks to me that you will not get power to the coil until the engine is turning over. It gets it's power from the stator. Make sure you have continuity from the - post to ground through the ignition switch. You could also by pass the switch and just put it straight to ground and see if you get spark. I think you may have an issue with either the coil or Stator.
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#10 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2012 - 05:05 AM

On the schematic attached above. Should the key switch in the RUN position not only have continuity between A to B and X to Y but also from A to X and Y

The SG does turn over in the START position it just does not have a belt to turn over the engine.


According to what I see on the diagram it should be x to y and A to B only. You can check the coil primary with an ohm meter. It should have a few ohms of resistance. Make sure you have a good connection from the ignition switch, through the white wire to the regulator and then to the chassis ground. A bad connection anywhere in the circuit will affect the spark. Those connectors are a source of problems as well. The contacts get corroded and dirty and loose connection. I would check the connections of the ignition switch itself with an ohm meter and make sure it is giving a good connection in the various positions. The one I repaired in the link I posted above was working fine when removed from the tractor but had no connection when I went to reinstall it.

#11 Bigdaddydon OFFLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2012 - 06:43 PM

Well I guess its not wet. Still no spark. I tested the resistance on the coil + to - is between .3 and .7 ohms from center to + or - is 4700 ohms. Does that sound OK. As far as I know there is no way to test the stator but if there is please let me know. I continue to search for a faulty ground or a wire going to ground in hopes it is an easier fix once the problem is found.

I wish the sudden stopping would have triggered something that may have happened to somebody else in the past.

Any other suggestions would be appreicated.

#12 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2012 - 08:07 PM

Why can't you take the - wire from the coil and put it to ground, just use a clamp and see if you get spark when you turn it over. If it starts then just un-clamp the wire and it will shut down. If it does start then you know the problem lies in your wiring harness or ignition switch. if it doesn't then the problem lies with either the coil or stator. Process of elimination.
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#13 Bigdaddydon OFFLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2012 - 08:25 PM

Why can't you take the - wire from the coil and put it to ground, just use a clamp and see if you get spark when you turn it over. If it starts then just un-clamp the wire and it will shut down. If it does start then you know the problem lies in your wiring harness or ignition switch. if it doesn't then the problem lies with either the coil or stator. Process of elimination.


Just went out and tried your method. I made a jumper and connected one side to the "-" and the othe to ground using a small vice grip. I tried 3 ground locations still no spark.

#14 goodnews OFFLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2012 - 08:27 PM

did youhave the hood up when you was washing it off if you did it could have got in the switch and shorted the ground 2 weeks ago mine stoped after checking everything else i had to replace switch it solved the problem . inChrist

Edited by goodnews, May 08, 2012 - 08:29 PM.


#15 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2012 - 05:34 AM

Just went out and tried your method. I made a jumper and connected one side to the "-" and the othe to ground using a small vice grip. I tried 3 ground locations still no spark.


I think your stator and ignition module may have fried. It could just be a coincidence that you were washing it and it stopped or you could have shorted something out from getting it wet.

Here's some info about the ignition switch and Stator:

"Originally the ignition system turned the engine on and off
using the same key switch used to start the tractor. As the
key switch aged, it often became faulty in that it would send
a 12V pulse to the module, which would ultimately destroy it.

To avoid buying another replacement module, it is highly
recommended that a separate switch be employed.
Reference the wiring diagram below, and you will notice
that the new switch should be connected between the
white lead of the stator or yellow lead of the module and
any convenient ground.

If the white/yellow lead is brought to ground, the engine will
die. If the white/yellow connection is open, the engine will
be allowed to run. Installing a separate switch in this
fashion will ensure that the module will not be subjected to
stray voltage from the battery.
"

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