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I Am Freaked Out With This Danged Kohler 321!


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#31 maxedout OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2012 - 08:50 PM

Well you are doing better then the public, at least your wife took you to the Hardware stores. We still haven't gotten congress to act decisively. :(



Just think by the in-action of congress where we are, but think of where we would be if they actually acted?

I've thought about it, if they actually did act it might be worse than it is when they don't!

If you'll notice in almost every case where Congress actually did something in the past 25 years give or take. When they did act in most if not all cases, it benefited the rich, corporations and the elite. The poor and middle class have been slaughtered by job loss, higher food and fuel and 2 wars and a Wall Street Bail out designed to further ruin the middle class and poor. While at the same time every law, every regulation in place to protect the middle class and poor has been erased and at the same time speculators run wild on Wall Street costing tax payers billions each and every day.

#32 maxedout OFFLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2012 - 11:44 AM

Parts arrived, installed and it made a huge difference. Well, still have some sputter but no governor hunting as before. The new bushing was simple to install, used a brass punch out of my knitting machine tools, shot hammer and banged easy to get it in and flush. The hardest thing was getting the screws out of the shaft. That folks turned into a pain the rear, it appears that someone had taken it out before and used red lock tight. I tried for well over and hour just working the screw back and forth, no joy and it finally decided to pop the head and of course another hour spent and the same thing happened again. Think I would have learned, next move was to file off the screw butts until I could get the shaft out, another 30 minutes because you really have to be careful doing that.

Next move, got the electronic screw driver set out and found a good minus drive that would just fit the screw stud, then I used the Dremel to cut a minus slot into the stud. Again you got to be very careful doing that, making sure you are dead center so the slot has plenty of meat so to speak for the minus driver to fit into the slot without breaking off a tab. Yes it might have been easier to re-drill and tap but that would have weakened the shaft further and it would have been very difficult with the tools on hand to make dang sure I was dead on center and dead center of the broken screw. Best choice for me was just try and remove the older broken screw.

OK, remembering the lock tight is a pain in the a** to remove I used my smallest butane torch from my electronic kit, heated the shaft up being careful not to over heat. Screws came right out no problem, but instead of backing them out, I just ran them right out as if tightening them! LOL! Worked the came right on out.

Next ordeal was because the shaft is worn pretty badly and appears to be ruff and dirty along with several burrs, I used again the Dremel tool to polish the entire shaft. I kept polishing it until I had a nice smooth fit into the new bushing. Trust me, that was a pain because naturally the worst part is right where the shaft meets the new bushing.

Got it all back together made a few carburetor adjustments and tried it out giving my neighbors little roadside field a good mowing. Ran great for the most part still got an occasional sputter but I think this is a fuel pump issue and dirty along with the fact the pump does have a small leak. If it's leaking gas, I'd guess it's sucking air too. So, next replacing that fuel pump is going to be my next ordeal, along with a new set of OEM points and condenser set. I might replace the coil just for kicks too. My kid has a neat coil, red High Proformance coil and I would love to try that thing out just for fun. I think I might have an intake leak too, even though I just put on a new gasket, that screw or bolt was not tight again and I know I tightened it down snug.

I sort of dread that but again I would like to learn how to time the engine and change the points.

After I got all that done, I got the Honda out to the shop, It's a 95 TRX300 Fourtrax and rebuilt the bottom section of the carburetor, when parked or riding it light it was leaking gas because the float was dirty. Let me tell you, it takes you longer to even get to the carburetor than actually rebuilding it. Gosh so much to remove. I owned motorcycles, trail and street bikes about my entire life and used to I could do the same rebuild in about and hour with breaks. Yesterday it took me over 3 hours just because I had to refer to shop manual over and over. I can say I LOVED it because I love my ATV and learning about it even though I have only had it a short time is as fun as GT's in some ways. I'd rather play tractor but still the ATV is one of the handy things we use here for farm work. My wish is to get a sprayer for the ATV so I can use it to spray along the drive way and other areas. My wish anyways!

Peace guys, Have a great Sunday and God bless each and everyone! Lord bless our Garden Tractors to work well and their owners to have a peace filled life with many blessings of happiness! Let them reap the bounty of their hard labor making those GT's work well to bring in a great garden!

Peace and Please do not be offended by the prayer, I know some folks do not all partake in the same beliefs but look at like this even if you don't believe it's still the thought of kindness displayed. If you take away the religious speak and wish good blessings it's about the same thing. Just in my case, because I wish God to bless you, well hey I am just wishing you well and happy blessings and nothing more.
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#33 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2012 - 12:00 PM

I'm glad! Your GT sounds like it is on the road to recovery!
Thanks for the blessings! And Good luck in the future on this GT :thumbs:
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#34 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2012 - 04:01 PM

I have a 90 TRX300FW in the shop now. Putting a starter, new front brakes, repaired the rear brakes and will do a service on it. It has taken over 3 weeks to get the parts I needed mainly the front brake cyclinders.

Glad you got things sorted out and the GT is running once again.
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#35 maxedout OFFLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2012 - 05:58 PM

I have a 90 TRX300FW in the shop now. Putting a starter, new front brakes, repaired the rear brakes and will do a service on it. It has taken over 3 weeks to get the parts I needed mainly the front brake cyclinders.

Glad you got things sorted out and the GT is running once again.


Not sure if you mean your shop, or someone else's shop. If you don't have a TRX Shop Manual, get one, the TRX is one of the most User Friendly Back Yard Mechanic ATV's ever made. Most of the parts you might need, you can get from a Dealer here, I can give you the link or do what I do, go Ebay and go internet, Used Cycle shops, and other research will get you parts lots faster and a heck of lot cheaper. I took a Saturday, just sit back at the computer made a list of all the parts I needed, Most either came from Kentucky or NC and I got everything I needed in 3 to 4 days after ordering.

The hardest thing I tried to get was a tool box lid with the tail light assembly and even a used one was well priced. Motor parts, Carburetor parts, break parts and even engine parts are easier to find than plastic. That said, EBAY and a couple of other places is by far your best bet for fast parts.

The push on fender screw locks, well I got those out of Hong Kong for a Mazada Car! LOL, 6 to 9 bucks a pop for one at a cycle shop, I got 25 for $4.95 and this are nicer than the originals, they have the positive driver remove, looks like a screw instead of a pull tab.

All my top engine parts, I get from Wilkes Ridge Cycle here in NC.

Oil Filters, K&N, Air Filters, Moose Racing, Carb kits, Moose Racing, Break Parts, Either Wilkes Ridge or Ebay, got all the parts, including rebuilds for the cylinders from Ebay, for about $50 bucks, Rear End parts, All Balls Gasket and Bearing kits, for around $60 bucks. That includes front and rear...

Starters, I get the kits, brushes and all, and have cleaned and if the armature needs turning local shop. Or you can pick up a used starter really cheap, rebuild it and sit it on the shelf, then if you need a new know there you go. I discovered on my last 4x4 ATV that starters are over priced and the labor costs is well over board what they should be...most of it you can do yourself easy.

Assuming of course you don't do it already but if you do, well then you know the TRX is the Best Honda they ever made and the easiest to work on. Shop Manual is worth its weight and http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/ has online Parts Diagrams that is worth it's weight in gold! They have a good selection of parts too!

If you need some other links let me know..I got some from back in the 90's when I had my last atv! LOL
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#36 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2012 - 06:49 PM

Glad you're posting some good news! And yes, it's hard if not impossible to beat a TRX Honda. I have a TRX450 and no way I could get along farming without it!

#37 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2012 - 07:29 PM

I have a small engine repair I do part time. The TRX300FW I have belongs to a friend. The problem is that between the TRX300 & the TRX300FW there are difference's in the parts. When I ordered the parts to rebuild the brake cyclinders I kept getting kit that would not work, I assume they were for the TRX300. Cheap cycles was one of the order houses that sent the wrong part. I also ordered a new air filter and got the wrong one. This happened with two different part's houses one local and one online. I finally went back to the dealer and using the vin # got what I needed. The service manual clearly shows the differences in the two model's brake system yet trying to get the part's people to understand was a night mare.

One of the first things I do when I get a piece of equipment in for repair is start looking for a SM and an IPB that is how I found this site looking for JB 318 SM.

I do appreciate the info .




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