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New Guy, First Tractor

1886 large frame bolens

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#91 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2012 - 09:55 PM

what did you pay for it? the hard cabs are hard to find in good shape.. i have one for a tube frame but would like to fine one for tthe 1250 someday


I paid 1200$ for tractor, 2 stage snowblower, mower, potatoe hiller, 3 point and hard cab for the winter

#92 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2012 - 10:06 PM

Welcome! Great paint work, too.

I hope you dont mean the barn!! lol
Yes im quite happy with the way the paint came out. I had a color in mind and out of luck with some old car paints that we had lying around we got the perfect match to my idea of the color it had to be. is pretty shinny but the videos are of poor quality, sorry for that. But thanks for the comment. I have to admit that car paint tends to chip on sharp edges because of vibration.

#93 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2012 - 01:53 PM

I don't know if you would be interested, since you already have what seems to be a decent working 3-pt, but this is listed on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/...&prg=1017&rk=1

Big thing would be if the seller would be willing to ship to "The Great White North".
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#94 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2012 - 08:16 PM

I don't know if you would be interested, since you already have what seems to be a decent working 3-pt, but this is listed on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/....&prg=1017&rk=1

Big thing would be if the seller would be willing to ship to "The Great White North".


3 PT wise im all good Thank you very much anyway its very nice of you to have tought of me :)

#95 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2012 - 08:35 PM

Today my hearth has melted along with some faulty wires on me lil beast. I can only blame myself.
I decided to rewire all the lighting to the ignition switch. For some reason the previous owner had everything rigged on a toggle switch he installed. Beeginers mistake I made and shorted the whole thing out. The wire from the ignition to the selenoïd melted, the selenoïd shorted out and grounded through its base. I hadnt realised that it was shorted and thought the engine died everytime i cranked it because of too much power going to the lighting system. I unplugged all the lights tested the plugs and coil the tried again, the engine started right up to die again after a couple turns. smoke was comming out of the dashboard so I checked to find a melted wire on the selenoid and a short on the las light wire that was still hooked. I took off the last lighting wire and tested the coil and plugs to realise I had no fire anymore. I had a hunch so I used a continuity tester between the positive battery cable and the body to get a resounding BEEP! Now I think my coil is shot, my selenoid is shot and I will check my points tomorow. This is going to be painfull, I hope I can find replacement coil for this.

#96 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2012 - 08:44 PM

Awww... That sucks majorly!!! :( I hope you can get your wiring figured out. I always hate dealing with wiring problems myself.

This is in part why I wanted to put my tractor all back to OEM before using it. The guy I bought it from (or maybe someone before him even) had rigged up some convoluted ignition setup. The original ignition switch had been replaced with the wrong type (the original switch has only three terminals on the back for the wiring, the one that was in there has six terminals!) and he had it set up so the switch would crank the engine over, but the coil wasn't hooked up. So, you had to flip a switch to turn the coil on. Then, if you shut the ignition off, the engine kept running until you also turned the switch off. It was messed up and I didn't like it, so I bought a NOS ignition switch to put back in it. Now it works like it should!!!

Edited by MailmAn, July 21, 2012 - 08:44 PM.

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#97 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2012 - 08:04 AM

Mailman this is exactly what the previous owner did on mine! the coil and lights are hooked to a flip switch that keeps it runnin even when ignition is turned off. Today i will be rewiring it all correctly. My only problem will be to figure out how to hook up the replacement selenoid. Any tips on that ?

#98 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2012 - 08:22 AM

IDK, the solenoid should be pretty straight-forward to replace. Do you have a lead on where to get a new one at all? As far as installing it, do you have a manual for your tractor? They usually have a wiring diagram that tells you how everything is hooked up. I downloaded the one for my 850 so I knew where all the wires were supposed to go for my ignition. Have you checked the "Manuals" section of this site for your manual? I THINK this should be the right one, but correct me if I'm wrong:

http://gardentractor...bolens-1886-01/


OR


http://gardentractor...ens-1886-03-04/


Look for the correct wiring diagram for your tractor in these manuals. Hope this helps!!

The solenoid looks pretty easy though - it has one big red lead usually that runs to the battery to supply power. There is a smaller wire that runs off this terminal of the solenoid to the voltage regulator as well to supply power to the rest of the tractor. On the other side, there is another big beefly wire (either red or black) that runs to the starter/generator. At the top of the solenoid is a small terminal that has a wire that goes to the ignition switch. When you turn your key to start the tractor, current flows from the voltage regulator to the ignition switch and down the small red wire to the top of the solenoid, where it energizes a coil inside there that connects the two larger terminals together. This connects the power from the main battery terminal that runs to the solenoid to the starter motor to turn over the engine. Then, it gets more complicated after that how the starter turns into a generator to feed power back into the battery while the engine is running. I still don't understand that component of it myself yet, lol!
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#99 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2012 - 11:17 AM

Yeah I took 10 seconds to check out how selemoids are hooked up on the net and learned that it was quite easy and im ok to do that for sure ;)
Now the next thing on my list is what i beleive to be the regulator. I cannot find a pic to prove me that im not mistaking. The wiring diagrams ive got them but the diagram dont show what the part looks like :( Ill cross me fingers and hope for the best. I will post some pics in a couple minutes, maybe one o you guys can steer me in the right direction

#100 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2012 - 11:36 AM

Here we go 3 first Pics is what I beleive to be the regulator. If I am wrong please tell me quick because i dont want to wreck everything today :p
Electrical (6).JPG Electrical (8).JPG Electrical (9).JPG

Looks like that mess you found on yours there Mailman eh ?
Its common way to hook things up when changing the ignition system for one that dont match the original (ie: ign switch, selenoid). Its a failsafe trick, or so it says in the text I read this morning.Electrical (7).JPG

#101 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2012 - 01:11 PM

Whew, how many butt-end connectors are in there? I suppose it's better than the wire nuts I found in my SS12.

I wish you luck in untangling that copper afghan.
I do think that's the regulator, it almost looks like an ignition module from that angle :)
I will defer to someone who has one of these as to what it might be, just wanted to wish you luck.
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#102 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2012 - 02:44 PM

Whew, how many butt-end connectors are in there? I suppose it's better than the wire nuts I found in my SS12.

I wish you luck in untangling that copper afghan.
I do think that's the regulator, it almost looks like an ignition module from that angle :)
I will defer to someone who has one of these as to what it might be, just wanted to wish you luck.

Not exactly sure what you meant by butt-end connectors but ALL the connection are made with circuit-city connectors. as for all the tape its me whom has labeled all wires BEFORE messing with it.

I look at all the Wire diagrams and find none that match mine in colors(for the few original wires) or in set-up. I have a alternator on there and Im starting to wonder if its after market because no W-D have them in there.
Unless im not understanding the name they give it ?

As for the starter module you may be right but its not being used that way now......?!? because its hooked to power ,to coil and to pressure gauge .I tought it might be the reg since theres nothing else in there that could be it. Theres a selenoid and that thing, so I have to think its got to be it no? Usually regs are used for lighting but all the lights are straigh to alternator power and down burn out...so far

Edited by hatedge, July 22, 2012 - 02:47 PM.


#103 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2012 - 03:02 PM

Butt-end connector is the teccy term for inline crimp connector.
Posted Image

Never heard them called Circuit-City connectors before, I like it. :thumbs:
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#104 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2012 - 09:05 PM

OH! lol there are 3 of those. the trest of them are the usual crimp on conectors (c and o shape). I called them circuit-city after the cheap electronics store where you can buy 'em. thanks for the english lesson bud, i'll go to bed a lil less stupid tonight! :beerchug: .

I have rewired everything properly to realise that nothing worked so I redid everything the way it was before and replaced the burnt wires and selenoid. Now lo and behold! the engine purrs in a perfectly timmed beat like never before!??! it used to miss a bit at iddle but not anymore..

#105 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2012 - 09:14 PM

Now that is good news. Makes you wonder why the "right" way didn't work, but who will argue with success?

Did the meltdown affect charging at all?

BTW, :thumbs: on pre-labling the wires. I usually wish I had afterwards...
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