Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Snapper 1855 Weird Engine Problem, Drive Vibration, And Steering Issues


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 Sevalecan OFFLINE  

Sevalecan

    Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 813
  • 0 Thanks
  • 14 posts

Posted May 05, 2012 - 12:45 PM

I recently fixed the driveshaft going back to the hydraulic pump on my Snapper 1855. Before, when the shaft was worn out, it would make a vibration whenever you put stress on the hydraulic pump. The vibration was pretty light-sounding and didn't shake the whole tractor. However, since I had the driveshaft repaired and put a new bearing on it, the whole tractor now vibrates at anything much less than having the engine revved at full speed. I plan on changing the motor mounts, but just in case that doesn't work, I'd like anyone's ideas on what else to look for to make it run smooth again.

On top of the above issue, I have noticed that if I am running the hydraulics for say, lifting the mower deck, and if I step on the forward pedal fairly hard, I will hear a zipping buzz sound, probably what you might expect to hear if two stripped gears were slipping on each other. I'm pretty sure no gears are stripped on the tractor, but I'd also like to know where I might look for this kind of sound.

Secondly, there is a really strange problem I've been experiencing ever since I got this tractor from my brother. If at any point I make a hard right turn at full speed for 3-5 seconds, the engine will lose power and nearly stall, then come back to life. This also happens if I am driving alongside a hill with the left side of the tractor being lower. It is my suspicion that this is not an ignition issue, but I suppose I could be wrong. The problem is, I wouldn't even know where to begin diagnosing this.

Lastly, I have a recently developed steering issue with the tractor. I have noticed that if I steer the tractor to the left, the steering wheel kind of hangs up a bit and makes a squeaking noise. I'm pretty sure it's locking up in the upper part of the steering column, but once again I'm not sure where to start with this one. At least from the top, I don't see anywhere where I can take off the steering wheel and take a look down inside there.

Any ideas you guys might have on where to look to start fixing some of these problems would be much appreciated.

#2 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,603 Thanks
  • 29,833 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted May 05, 2012 - 02:31 PM

On the vibe thing, AND the zip/buzz sound.....rings with me that you may have a worn out coupler & possibly the hydro input shaft where the coupler connects as well. Pull the pin from the center of the coupler, then slide it back to inspect the shaft. A little more involved in checking the coupler, as you'll need to remove the shaft to get the coupler out. Also, if equipped with rear pto, you could have a vibe from the pto bearings, etc.
On the turning/stalling issue, sounds like either there is water & trash in the carb (washing to the main jet side in turns/slopes) or that the fuel level is wrong.
The steering is more likely in the steering gearbox bottom. Usually all that is in the top side of the column is a plastic bushing cap.

#3 TUDOR OFFLINE  

TUDOR

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 915
  • 543 Thanks
  • 497 posts
  • Location: Sault Ste Marie, Ontario

Posted May 05, 2012 - 04:25 PM

In general, drive line vibrations usually get worse with higher rpm, not better. I had a lot of trouble with the splined pulleys until I changed my shafts to use cast iron pulleys. The universal is another possible source of vibration. Changing the motor mounts may hide the vibration, but it won't cure the cause.

I'm with Daniel on the engine stumbling and steering issues.

#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted May 05, 2012 - 05:14 PM

I wonder if you have a cracked frame. If things are moving that shouldn't be then that could cause most of the problems you're encountering.

#5 TUDOR OFFLINE  

TUDOR

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 915
  • 543 Thanks
  • 497 posts
  • Location: Sault Ste Marie, Ontario

Posted May 06, 2012 - 07:39 AM

I wonder if you have a cracked frame. If things are moving that shouldn't be then that could cause most of the problems you're encountering.


Mmmm. Never seen the frame on a 1655/1855, huh? 5/16" X 4" flat stock rails and cross members that are just as substantial. In 2500 hours of torture testing, I haven't cracked a weld on mine yet, although I did manage to break a rail from stupidity. That won't happen with anywhere near normal abuse.

#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted May 06, 2012 - 11:26 AM

Bob, It's my experience that some people can break just about anything. With a used tractor you never know what has been done to it in the past. I find that there are people who tend to abuse a small tractor rather than getting the correct tool for the job. I was just trying to tie together all the symptoms into one problem.

#7 TUDOR OFFLINE  

TUDOR

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 915
  • 543 Thanks
  • 497 posts
  • Location: Sault Ste Marie, Ontario

Posted May 07, 2012 - 11:05 PM

Bob, It's my experience that some people can break just about anything. With a used tractor you never know what has been done to it in the past. I find that there are people who tend to abuse a small tractor rather than getting the correct tool for the job. I was just trying to tie together all the symptoms into one problem.


Don't get me wrong, Brian, I agree with you. I've worked with a couple of guys who shouldn't be allowed to operate anything more complicated or fragile than a foam pillow. (Even then, I'd feel sorry for the pillow!) About the only thing on that tractor that I haven't managed to bend, break or otherwise mutilate, is the dash tower. I guess I just haven't been trying hard enough! lol

The frame fracture was just plain stupidity and laziness on my part. I repowered with a P220 from a BF and with the starter on the opposite side, it required a notch in the frame. Directly under the notch is a 1" diameter hole for an oil drain line. The combination reduced effective frame material by about 40% near the area of maximum stress from the loader. This is my heavy lifter where 1000 lb payloads come under the heading of "Normal", and the one 1400 lb payload that I made after the repair I class as "Extreme".

Believe me when I say that it would take a really, really ham fisted operator to damage that frame in stock form. There may be some out there who might demand more from their equipment, but I haven't heard of them.

Edited by TUDOR, May 07, 2012 - 11:09 PM.





Top