Hi guy's I picked up a 900 the other day and I'm trying to get the Wisconsin fired up. It dose not appear to have any spark? Can you give me a few pointers on where to start? Anyone have a manual for this tractor? I realy like it and it appears to be compleat aside from a craked fiberglass seat pan...
Thanks
No Spark Issue Bolens 900
Started by
schoust
, Apr 30, 2012 08:47 AM
19 replies to this topic
#1
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schoust
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Posted April 30, 2012 - 08:47 AM
- Newpaws493 said thank you
#2
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Bolens 1000
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Posted April 30, 2012 - 08:51 AM
Is your engine running off the original magneto or has it been converted to a 12vt coil?
Did you clean and gap the points?
This manual should help you http://gardentractor...-repair-manual/
Did you clean and gap the points?
This manual should help you http://gardentractor...-repair-manual/
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Posted April 30, 2012 - 10:36 AM
I try the simplest things first. How did you determine you aren't getting spark. If you used the old way of holding the plug to block did you try a new plug? If not try with a new plug then as the Dr. said check your point and condenser the start looking at some of the more serious stuff like the coil and wiring leading to the coil.
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Posted April 30, 2012 - 11:06 AM
Well to be honest I no nothing about these engines so I rely can't say? It appears to be stock? Then again I'm not sure. I will say this she is one sturdy little tractor! Thanks much for the info!!
Thanks
Thanks
Edited by schoust, April 30, 2012 - 11:08 AM.
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Posted April 30, 2012 - 12:31 PM
If you can get some pictures of the engine that would help.Also Congrats on your Purchase and good luck with itWell to be honest I no nothing about these engines so I rely can't say? It appears to be stock? Then again I'm not sure. I will say this she is one sturdy little tractor! Thanks much for the info!!
Thanks
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Posted April 30, 2012 - 03:57 PM
The most common failure of the Wisconsin magneto Ignition system is high resistance accross the points. By removing the breaker point cover on the lower right hand side of the engine, the points are exposed. using a bright flashlight and small screw driver gently pry the points open slightly to allow inspection of the point contact surfaces. It is likely the points will show signs of wear by indication of burning, pitting or an uneven wear pattern where one side is higher than the other.
To verify breaker point condition, remove the screw retaining the points to the breaker point box wall. Remove the scew holding the flat copper wire and condenser lead to the breaker point assembly. At this point care should be taken when removing the points as the eccentric adjustment screw will be free to fall from the breaker box. If a multi meter is available, set the meter to read "Resistance" (ohms). Place one lead on each side of the points and read the resistance. High resistance will be indicated by a high scale reading. The higher the scale reading the higher the resistance and the poorer the spark will be. If high resistance is indicated, but the wear is not extreme, cleaning and regapping at re-installation will likely cure the problem. With a finger nail file (emory board type), slip the file between the points and gently work the file back and forth to burnish the points. If the damage/wear is extreme, replace the points with a serviceable set (available from a variety of vendors listed on this site).
One other simple item to check is the flat copper lead connected to the points where the condenser lead is attached. On occasion, the flat lead has been known to ground against the breaker box cover causing the ignition to short to ground. If you have spark with the cover off and non with it on, then that problem is easily resolved by use of a small needle nose pliers to bend the flat lead slightly so as to no longer contact the cover. Great care should be excersized when bending the lead as they can be easily broken.
Good Luck!
To verify breaker point condition, remove the screw retaining the points to the breaker point box wall. Remove the scew holding the flat copper wire and condenser lead to the breaker point assembly. At this point care should be taken when removing the points as the eccentric adjustment screw will be free to fall from the breaker box. If a multi meter is available, set the meter to read "Resistance" (ohms). Place one lead on each side of the points and read the resistance. High resistance will be indicated by a high scale reading. The higher the scale reading the higher the resistance and the poorer the spark will be. If high resistance is indicated, but the wear is not extreme, cleaning and regapping at re-installation will likely cure the problem. With a finger nail file (emory board type), slip the file between the points and gently work the file back and forth to burnish the points. If the damage/wear is extreme, replace the points with a serviceable set (available from a variety of vendors listed on this site).
One other simple item to check is the flat copper lead connected to the points where the condenser lead is attached. On occasion, the flat lead has been known to ground against the breaker box cover causing the ignition to short to ground. If you have spark with the cover off and non with it on, then that problem is easily resolved by use of a small needle nose pliers to bend the flat lead slightly so as to no longer contact the cover. Great care should be excersized when bending the lead as they can be easily broken.
Good Luck!
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Newpaws493
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Posted April 30, 2012 - 04:24 PM
Glad I stopped by here to pick up that bit o' wisdom, 'schoust';Thanks for posting/ asking, I'm new around here and I learn A Lot through exchanges just like this one. And...
- schoust said thank you
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Posted May 01, 2012 - 03:55 PM
Hey Guy's. Well The engine is running a mag and appeared to have a broken ground strap on the point's. So I replaced the point's and used a piece of wire in place of the strap and set up the point gap to the book spec and still no spark? Now this machine was running not long ago but has been sitting for about a year outside. What to do next? Pix when I can find a few moment's extra to do so....Thanks in advance!
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Posted May 01, 2012 - 04:15 PM
Ok I did a little more research and all seems to be as it should with the point's now I'm starting to think it might be magnito related? Is there a test procedure on this thing? I love this sturdy tractor and will get it going for my little Guy to mow with while I start looking for a large frame piece..
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Posted May 01, 2012 - 07:42 PM
I assume you replaced the condenser with points. The next thing I would be looking at is the coil, make sure you have power going to it.
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schoust
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Posted May 02, 2012 - 07:20 AM
Hi Bill this tractor has a magnito is there a test procedure for this?
Thanks
Thanks
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Bolens 1000
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Posted May 02, 2012 - 08:53 AM
Hi Bill this tractor has a magnito is there a test procedure for this?
Thanks
The manual I posted a link to in the first couple posts shows testing procedures on the magneto.
Since it has been sitting outside in the elements I'm guessing there is a good chance the magnets are rusty on the coil and flywheel.
To be sure you will have to pull the flywheel off to inspect and clean up the contacts.
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Posted May 02, 2012 - 09:02 AM
You can use the spark plug to test it. Connect the lead to the plug then take a wire and connect it to a mounting bolt and then ground the plug and spin the mag. See if you get spark. DON'T HOLD or TOUCH the plug or leads.
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Posted May 05, 2012 - 04:47 PM
Ok guy's I removed the flywheel and cleaned the contacts on both the mag and the wheel so now I have the proper spark but still no run? So the next place to look is the carb. It looks like there is a home made gasket on the bowl and its seeps fuel but imo it still should run after cleaning out the bowl and following the instructions for settings. The engine will pop but not start? She is sneezing out the carb
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Posted May 05, 2012 - 06:06 PM
Sounds like it's time for a carb re-build.
Check with Jestin at www.tubeframes.com
He's in NH, and can supply a kit for re-building it for $20.00.
Or you can do what I did, and exchange your old carb for one that is already re-built. That's a bit more $$, but I wasn't comfortable with trying to rebuild one on my own.
I've done a decent amount of business with him, and he's always been easy to deal with and very reasonable on pricing.
Check with Jestin at www.tubeframes.com
He's in NH, and can supply a kit for re-building it for $20.00.
Or you can do what I did, and exchange your old carb for one that is already re-built. That's a bit more $$, but I wasn't comfortable with trying to rebuild one on my own.
I've done a decent amount of business with him, and he's always been easy to deal with and very reasonable on pricing.
