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John Deere 212 12hp Kohler Running Rough


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#16 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2012 - 09:22 PM

so how far back in the fuel system do i need to go.


Might as well go all the way back. The is a screen/filter just below the tank at the shut off. It would be good insurance to also check that length of fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump, it might have started to break down, or is possibly crudded up.
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#17 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2012 - 05:57 AM

Yep as Cat said go all the way back, otherwise you are liable to get the carb clean and then get crud right back in there again and have to do it all over again. Since this is a new tractor to you I think I would go ahead and replace the fuel line and filter so when you are done you will have a clean relatively new fuel system.

#18 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2012 - 10:14 AM

I renew all the fuel lines right up to the carb when I get an old tractor. It's also a safety issue if the original lines are starting to rot. Somtimes the tank can be full of debris as well. Draining it and giving it a rinse is probably a good idea.

#19 danjones1980 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2012 - 08:10 PM

sorry for the delay on the update.... cleaned out gas tank, new fuel lines all the way through tractor, new inline fuel filter, carb is clean, new spark plug, took engine covers off made sure there was no debris, checked all linkage for carb/throttle. tractor started and idles, has a slight surge every say 15 sec. now when i engage the blades it will run fine for a few passes (say 100 - 125 ft) and then starts to bog down and have to use choke to keep it running. shut blades off and it will start to idle fine until i start to move again and then it runs like crap. if i shut it off leave it for a few minutes and restart it will do it all over again
any suggestions are appreciated
dan

#20 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2012 - 10:13 PM

I use to have an old Ford work van that would be going along great and then it would loose power and I would pull off the road and it would die and wouldn't start. Let it sit for a while then everything was good to go again for a while. It got so bad that I could not hardly go anywhere with out it quieting on me. After T/S and trying all kinds of thing it turned out to be bad mufflers. The insides were shot but on the out side they didn't look to bad until I ran a screw driver into them.

This may be worth checking out. I think I would also try spraying some Carb cleaner around your intake manifold and carb to see if you are getting an air leak when the engine heats up.

#21 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2012 - 10:39 PM

Do what Bill said. But question, Did you take everything apart on the carb and clean or did you just clean the bowl? also have you tried adjusting the high speed mixture screw when it starts bogging down? Try setting the high speed mixture @ 1 and a half turns open, then tweak it after you get he running. The other thing since it is doing this when it's hot, have you done anything with or checked the points and condenser? Even a bad coil can seem good until it gets hot.

#22 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2012 - 10:04 AM

Have you checked the head gasket to make sure it's not leaking. Electrical problems with the ignition can give you trouble as said above. Check your connections going to the coil and points. Checking the condition of the points and the gap/timing should be on your list if you haven't done so yet.

#23 danjones1980 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 12, 2012 - 06:53 AM

hey just to let you know on progress... sent the tractor back to the gentleman i bought it off of and he worked on it. his diagnosis was the points were actually loose. they were in good working order but the mount on the tractor had worked loose. the gap was fluctuating between say a 32nd of an inch and an 8th of an inch. mowed with it and it ran good, cut nice and had no problems. thanks for all the help and advice.
dan

#24 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 12, 2012 - 06:55 AM

Glad you found the problem and it was a simple fix!

#25 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 12, 2012 - 07:07 AM

Ah! Thats good news. I've had that happen to my 314 as well. Worked one day then the next a no go. It's on my list of things to check now!

#26 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

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Posted May 12, 2012 - 09:35 AM

Thanks for the feed back. Glad it was a simple fix.

#27 Rick OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2012 - 10:02 AM

hey just to let you know on progress... sent the tractor back to the gentleman i bought it off of and he worked on it. his diagnosis was the points were actually loose. they were in good working order but the mount on the tractor had worked loose. the gap was fluctuating between say a 32nd of an inch and an 8th of an inch. mowed with it and it ran good, cut nice and had no problems. thanks for all the help and advice.
dan

My 140 did the same thing by coming loose and not having any power once it got hot.I found out from a friend of mine that does garden tractor pulling that you can use adjustable points from a small block chevy in the kohlor motor.That is what he uses so he can adjust them out to get the most power from his pulling tractors.
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#28 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2012 - 10:13 AM

My 140 did the same thing by coming loose and not having any power once it got hot.I found out from a friend of mine that does garden tractor pulling that you can use adjustable points from a small block chevy in the kohlor motor.That is what he uses so he can adjust them out to get the most power from his pulling tractors.

That's interesting. An alternate source of parts if the Kohler part isn't available.

#29 Rick OFFLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2012 - 10:31 AM

That's interesting. An alternate source of parts if the Kohler part isn't available.

I was also told that the AMC coil is the only other one besides kohlor that has 12 volts coming from it all the rest have 8 volts running from them.That makes sence because I had a gm coil on my 140 and it didnt run write,I switched to a kohlor coil and fixed the problam.

#30 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 18, 2012 - 10:52 AM

I'm not real up on car ignitions but i think a lot of them put 12volts to start then reduced that to a lower value to run. So if you put 12volts on them continuously they may overheat.




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